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Why the surface is so rough on the water pump? will it be an issue?
No issue, that’s just outside rough casing which only surrounding air touches. Coolant passes thru the smooth interior from two head ports on each side and pushed out larger hole in image, thru tube under intake manifold to thermostat housing on transmission side of motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
No issue, that’s just outside rough casing which only surrounding air touches. Coolant passes thru the smooth interior from two head ports on each side and pushed out larger hole in image, thru tube under intake manifold to thermostat housing on transmission side of motor.
Sir, for our car, what RTV we should use on the water pump? then what RTV for the oil pan (engine and trans)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
No issue, that’s just outside rough casing which only surrounding air touches. Coolant passes thru the smooth interior from two head ports on each side and pushed out larger hole in image, thru tube under intake manifold to thermostat housing on transmission side of motor.
And also, do we need to put the transmission shift on neutral before timing belt change for turning the crankshaft manually later?
 

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Sir, for our car, what RTV we should use on the water pump? then what RTV for the oil pan (engine and trans)?
If you clean block outlet ports surface CLEAN you might not need a sealant on water pump gasket. But I like to use a THIN smeared coat of permatex blue RTV or copper coat liquid (brush-on) on both sides of water pump gasket just to be sure no leaks.



Below is link to oil pan replacement with recommended RTV sealer listed in step 2 of insulation segment, search option is your friend. Just ignore info about transfer case procedures and turbo oil drain lines to each side of pan as your FWD NA doesn't have them.

And also, do we need to put the transmission shift on neutral before timing belt change for turning the crankshaft manually later?
Yours being an automatic doesn't require it to be in neutral like a manual trans. With engine not running the torque converter allows engine to turn freely with transmission in park.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you clean block outlet ports surface CLEAN you might not need a sealant on water pump gasket. But I like to use a THIN smeared coat of permatex blue RTV or copper coat liquid (brush-on) on both sides of water pump gasket just to be sure no leaks.
View attachment 298875


Below is link to oil pan replacement with recommended RTV sealer listed in step 2 of insulation segment, search option is your friend. Just ignore info about transfer case procedures and turbo oil drain lines to each side of pan as your FWD NA doesn't have them.


Yours being an automatic doesn't require it to be in neutral like a manual trans. With engine not running the torque converter allows engine to turn freely with transmission in park.
Thank you, sir !!! all my suspension restore parts arrived also, I decide to do the suspension restore firstly because it is rust issue related, I suppose it will keep going worse every day if I leave it as is, so, so I decide to stop or slow the rust firstly, then I will jump into the 120K maint, and very important, every time I did one of the maint item I could take a safer test drive with the restored suspension, steering rack and brake sys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Heater core being bypassed won't hurt anything.
FYI, oil pump replacement is recommended at 120K service, but is not necessary if your oil pressure is ok. You would have to install an aftermarket oil pressure sensor to get a real reading, but good oil pressure is high teens to low 20's at hot idle, an increase of 10 psi per 1000 rpms. So, say it's 20 psi at idle (750 rpms), you'll want to see 30 psi before 2000, 40 before 3000, etc. The stock oil pressure gauges are not accurate, but are fairly consistent in their readings. On a stock gauge you would look for Cold start – 2 ticks above 1st big hash mark, Warm idle – 2 ticks below 1st big hash mark, 3K rpm warm – 2 ticks above 1st big hash mark. If pressure at hot idle is low, say 11-12 psi, it's usually an indication of worn bearings, should be checked.
I was advised to do this as the heater pipes were stuffed on mine but I purchased new ones off Amayama which I will install shortly. I also see the odd post talking about oil pump replacement. I would attempt this unless you absolutely have to as this really is rather a job. I've done it because I caused an issue with the seal (long story) but these pumps really are good and should not need replacing IMO.

This is not needed every 60K but recommended at either 120K or 180K. It depends on the car history, owner care, and oil pressure.

The thing that usually kills the oil pumps is over-rev'ing (breaks or distorts the gears in the pump) or poor service and oil changes (wear exceeds OEM specs). Only use OEM pumps. Nothing else will do. When ordering also note that the required gaskets are ordered in addition to the pump (they do not come with the pump).

The oil pump for a 2 bolt main block is not the same as for the newer 4 bolt mainblock. So make sure you get the right oil pump.

Also note that they do not come with a gasket. The case gasket is MD189778. But you ALSO need two others (that a lot of people discover in the middle of their job!). You need the oil strainer (pickup tube) gasket MD183239 and the Oil Filter Bracket/housing gasket MD189779. Plus - have some new copper crush washers for your banjo bolt. A lot of times you can reuse them but to do things properly you should replace them.

If you are going for a race build hold off on this and consider getting aftermarket gears that can handle higher RPMs. If that is a choice you make then you need not buy a new oil pump and instead just change out the gears.

Make sure your pickup tube/strainer is in good shape and the little piece on the screen slightly bowed out. This is important! ALSO - make sure your oil pan is not dented in by some idiot jacking the car up @ the oil pan. This is VERY important tohave NO DENT in the bottom of your oil pan. It has been cited as one of the possible causes of oil starvation/cavitation (which will result in engine damage, ie - spun bearing)
Far out. I just did an oil pump change and my god it's rather a job. Lots of pulling off bits and pieces just to get to it - including the crank sprocket hence redoing your timing. I'm not a mechanics arsehole but cannot see the point in changing out what is possibly a perfectly good pump. Mind you, you may have better access to those parts than here in New Zealand. I only changed mine because of damage to the oil pan seal area which was unfixable anyway and I used a pump off a donor car which seems to be working just fine. Yeah if you do the main seal you'll need to remove the pump, clean it up and put on a new seal.
Hi, I am thinking I will change the oil pump during my timing belt replacement, I already got the OEM oil pump and gasket, I got some qeustions below, thanks!

1. I saw many posts talk about prime oil pump, basically they said unplug the CAS then crank it for prime, and see the oil show up in valve cover, and they also said better to remove all the spark plugs when doing the prime. This meaning I should take off the the valve cover and manifold firstly, should crank it with valve cover and manifold off or I need put it back after removing the spark plugs then crank the engine?

2. There are also some people said use RTV for the oil pump installaition, so what we suggest? the OEM gasket or RTV or both?

3. please let me know if there is some good write up for oil pump change, thanks!

4. the very last one, is it possible just to change the crank seal without changing the pump? Just pull the old seal out and push the new one in or still need remove the pump?
 

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1. I saw many posts talk about prime oil pump, basically they said unplug the CAS then crank it for prime, and see the oil show up in valve cover, and they also said better to remove all the spark plugs when doing the prime. This meaning I should take off the the valve cover and manifold firstly, should crank it with valve cover and manifold off or I need put it back after removing the spark plugs then crank the engine?
You don't have to take either valve cover off, just the intake plenum to access the rear 3 spark plugs. You can see if oil is reaching the head through the oil cap opening.

2. There are also some people said use RTV for the oil pump installaition, so what we suggest? the OEM gasket or RTV or both?
I'd follow what is in the service manual. You'll use the OEM gasket, but I don't remember if RTV is recommended in a few spots or not. Certainly don't want to put RTV all over the gasket.

3. please let me know if there is some good write up for oil pump change, thanks!
There are at least a half dozen videos on youtube on changing the oil pump. You should also check the Wiki and DIY guides on this forum too. I remember Toni had created a procedure for changing the oil pump with the engine in the car but don't know if I could find it or not.

4. the very last one, is it possible just to change the crank seal without changing the pump? Just pull the old seal out and push the new one in or still need remove the pump?
I'm not sure, but if you're going that far in why not just change the whole oil pump? Maybe the service manual answers this one.
 

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4. the very last one, is it possible just to change the crank seal without changing the pump? Just pull the old seal out and push the new one in or still need remove the pump?
If you haven’t downloaded the mechanical service manual yet, since they’re free from 3SX.com or Ninjaperformace.com, I suggest you do so because many of your questions can be answered there.

The seal can be replaced without removing the pump which also requires removing the oil pan. When removing the seal by itself you need to be careful about scratching crankshaft or oil pump case, see below clip from service manual.
click on image to enlarge
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
If you haven’t downloaded the mechanical service manual yet, since they’re free from 3SX.com or Ninjaperformace.com, I suggest you do so because many of your questions can be answered there.

The seal can be replaced without removing the pump which also requires removing the oil pan. When removing the seal by itself you need to be careful about scratching crankshaft or oil pump case, see below clip from service manual.
View attachment 299441 click on image to enlarge
"also requires removing the oil pan" ??? meaning I have to drop the oil pan to only replace the crankshaft front seal? I really never thought about that...
 

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"also requires removing the oil pan" ??? meaning I have to drop the oil pan to only replace the crankshaft front seal? I really never thought about that...
NO, you misinterpreted what I said; you have to drop oil pan to remove the oil pump. You don’t have to drop the oil pan to replace the front seal only.

The seal can be replaced without removing the pump which also requires removing the oil pan.
The seal can be replaced without removing the pump which also requires removing the oil pan.
 
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