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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1. The car looks good in and out, but I can not find records about timing belt change, and the owner said she doesn't know it ( maybe someone did the change, she just doesn't know), where should I look for it?

2. If I want to know if this issue damaged the car or not, what should I check?

I will be there for the testing drive tomorrow.
 

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I was in the same situation, previous owner didn't know. If you really want the car, then change do the 120K maintenance. Make sure you factor in the cost of the 120K and if you plan to do the work yourself or hire a shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was in the same situation, previous owner didn't know. If you really want the car, then change do the 120K maintenance. Make sure you factor in the cost of the 120K and if you plan to do the work yourself or hire a shop.
Thanks for the advice!!!
I will do it by myself, honestly, I don't trust any shop particularly on this car...I just call a shop I used to hire them to change my Landcruiser timing belt, they don't even have worked on one of these... I have been successfully changed my Sequoia timing belt, and I reviewed the video about that, I think I can do it...

By the way, what is other services of the 120k service except for the timing belt and water pump change?
 

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some good info about 60k and 120k maintenance
3000GT VR4 60k 120k Service Tune Up List and Guide and a search on the forum here will show you many topic about the 120k.

Diy is the way to go that will drop the cost of the 120k and let u some money for other things you could find that need to be replaced.

-Simon
 
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diy = you know all is done properly
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just wondering that how frequently to see these cars have a cam seal leaking when doing a 120K maint? that page just said inspect cam seal, sounds like these cars normally don't have cam seal leaking at that mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
diy = you know all is done properly
You're right, I fully restored my Landcruiser suspension, a lot of things, when I did that I was thinking if someone pays me the amount which a shop asking for would I do that much work or just do whatever can get the job done...? Definitely, the second one! Because tons of cleaning, preparation, checking has just been done for prevention which a shop will never do this for you...
 

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dont think is a know failure issue ...i changed mine at 120k because i was rebuilding my cylinder heads (last shop do a shitty job... now im a diy with friends lol)

i could tell at 60 k and 120k they dont leak...
 
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one thing ro inspect sont remember if covered in the link i post..

check the oil pan if dented..if the answer is yes fix it asap
 
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1. The car looks good in and out, but I can not find records about timing belt change, and the owner said she doesn't know it ( maybe someone did the change, she just doesn't know), where should I look for it?

2. If I want to know if this issue damaged the car or not, what should I check?

I will be there for the testing drive tomorrow.
Hey man just to chime into this topic. The 120k service is not ridiculously hard to do as long as you’ve got some time on your hands. I changed the timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, a few pulleys and had some spare time to do fluid changes at the end of it. All in all took me about 15-20 hours.
there’s a really good YouTube channel called 3000gt/Gto restoration that I wouldn’t have been able to get by without watching a few videos. I have a mechanical background but this was the first major maintanence I’ve ever done on any car.
If the timing belt snapped or was timed off at any point the valves would have been smushed by the piston-valve contact and you’d be able to tell by the sound. As long as the car looks to have been well maintained I don’t see any issues arising as long as you get on that timing belt change asap.
for a 120k rebuild kit I would only ever trust 3sx Quality parts, they are a bit expensive but you get what you pay for. As for accessory belts, you can get the same continental belts that 3sx for half the price on rock auto. Just match the p/n’s.
what I’m trying to say is that you have options.

ps- I did this job solo, no extra pair of hands needed as long as you watch the videos thoroughly.
cheers,
-Anthony.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
one thing ro inspect sont remember if covered in the link i post..

check the oil pan if dented..if the answer is yes fix it asap
Hey man just to chime into this topic. The 120k service is not ridiculously hard to do as long as you’ve got some time on your hands. I changed the timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, a few pulleys and had some spare time to do fluid changes at the end of it. All in all took me about 15-20 hours.
there’s a really good YouTube channel called 3000gt/Gto restoration that I wouldn’t have been able to get by without watching a few videos. I have a mechanical background but this was the first major maintanence I’ve ever done on any car.
If the timing belt snapped or was timed off at any point the valves would have been smushed by the piston-valve contact and you’d be able to tell by the sound. As long as the car looks to have been well maintained I don’t see any issues arising as long as you get on that timing belt change asap.
for a 120k rebuild kit I would only ever trust 3sx Quality parts, they are a bit expensive but you get what you pay for. As for accessory belts, you can get the same continental belts that 3sx for half the price on rock auto. Just match the p/n’s.
what I’m trying to say is that you have options.

ps- I did this job solo, no extra pair of hands needed as long as you watch the videos thoroughly.
cheers,
-Anthony.
Thank you guys, I bought the car, the owner said he did have a 60K timing belt change, now is 113k so it is due to another. The car runs perfectly, even though it is an ATX, OD is working well, shifting smoothly.

The only significant thing is the owner bypassed the heater core due to a leaking years ago.
So now the question is should I disassemble all the stuff and remove or replace the old heater core? or to say will it damage any other thing if I just leave it there?
 

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Heater core being bypassed won't hurt anything.
FYI, oil pump replacement is recommended at 120K service, but is not necessary if your oil pressure is ok. You would have to install an aftermarket oil pressure sensor to get a real reading, but good oil pressure is high teens to low 20's at hot idle, an increase of 10 psi per 1000 rpms. So, say it's 20 psi at idle (750 rpms), you'll want to see 30 psi before 2000, 40 before 3000, etc. The stock oil pressure gauges are not accurate, but are fairly consistent in their readings. On a stock gauge you would look for Cold start – 2 ticks above 1st big hash mark, Warm idle – 2 ticks below 1st big hash mark, 3K rpm warm – 2 ticks above 1st big hash mark. If pressure at hot idle is low, say 11-12 psi, it's usually an indication of worn bearings, should be checked.
 

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Thank you guys, I bought the car, the owner said he did have a 60K timing belt change, now is 113k so it is due to another. The car runs perfectly, even though it is an ATX, OD is working well, shifting smoothly.

The only significant thing is the owner bypassed the heater core due to a leaking years ago.
So now the question is should I disassemble all the stuff and remove or replace the old heater core? or to say will it damage any other thing if I just leave it there?
This has nothing to do with your timing belt or 120k question. I'm going to chime in here on the mileage and maintaing these cars. One important aspect is that if you're relying on the odometer, it's wrong. Yes, it's legal for the title, etc.. Use a GPS speedometer and you'll see that the speedo is off by 10% (shows 10% higher than actual speed). Verify it using mile posts on the highway @ 60 mph. If you know one, get a police officer to clock you at a given speed. That's on purpose by Mitsu which I suspect was either so people maintain them a little early or for legal purposes. It actually drives me nuts.

This is the main reason why I bought my car with 38k on the clock for $12k.
 
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Would replace the heater core to fully enjoy the car if it gets cold at all where you live. I know that's obvious, but hopefully it'll make the job easier knowing you won't have to worry about what doesn't work after that. Rockauto is generally good with those types of parts. I need to replace one too, although I don't drive that car and will only sell it.
 

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Thank you guys, I bought the car, the owner said he did have a 60K timing belt change, now is 113k so it is due to another. The car runs perfectly, even though it is an ATX, OD is working well, shifting smoothly.

The only significant thing is the owner bypassed the heater core due to a leaking years ago.
So now the question is should I disassemble all the stuff and remove or replace the old heater core? or to say will it damage any other thing if I just leave it there?
I was advised to do this as the heater pipes were stuffed on mine but I purchased new ones off Amayama which I will install shortly. I also see the odd post talking about oil pump replacement. I would attempt this unless you absolutely have to as this really is rather a job. I've done it because I caused an issue with the seal (long story) but these pumps really are good and should not need replacing IMO.
 

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Thanks for the advice!!!
I will do it by myself, honestly, I don't trust any shop particularly on this car...I just call a shop I used to hire them to change my Landcruiser timing belt, they don't even have worked on one of these... I have been successfully changed my Sequoia timing belt, and I reviewed the video about that, I think I can do it...

By the way, what is other services of the 120k service except for the timing belt and water pump change?
Spark plugs.
 

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Spark plugs.

This is not needed every 60K but recommended at either 120K or 180K. It depends on the car history, owner care, and oil pressure.

The thing that usually kills the oil pumps is over-rev'ing (breaks or distorts the gears in the pump) or poor service and oil changes (wear exceeds OEM specs). Only use OEM pumps. Nothing else will do. When ordering also note that the required gaskets are ordered in addition to the pump (they do not come with the pump).

The oil pump for a 2 bolt main block is not the same as for the newer 4 bolt mainblock. So make sure you get the right oil pump.

Also note that they do not come with a gasket. The case gasket is MD189778. But you ALSO need two others (that a lot of people discover in the middle of their job!). You need the oil strainer (pickup tube) gasket MD183239 and the Oil Filter Bracket/housing gasket MD189779. Plus - have some new copper crush washers for your banjo bolt. A lot of times you can reuse them but to do things properly you should replace them.

If you are going for a race build hold off on this and consider getting aftermarket gears that can handle higher RPMs. If that is a choice you make then you need not buy a new oil pump and instead just change out the gears.

Make sure your pickup tube/strainer is in good shape and the little piece on the screen slightly bowed out. This is important! ALSO - make sure your oil pan is not dented in by some idiot jacking the car up @ the oil pan. This is VERY important tohave NO DENT in the bottom of your oil pan. It has been cited as one of the possible causes of oil starvation/cavitation (which will result in engine damage, ie - spun bearing)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

This is not needed every 60K but recommended at either 120K or 180K. It depends on the car history, owner care, and oil pressure.

The thing that usually kills the oil pumps is over-rev'ing (breaks or distorts the gears in the pump) or poor service and oil changes (wear exceeds OEM specs). Only use OEM pumps. Nothing else will do. When ordering also note that the required gaskets are ordered in addition to the pump (they do not come with the pump).

The oil pump for a 2 bolt main block is not the same as for the newer 4 bolt mainblock. So make sure you get the right oil pump.

Also note that they do not come with a gasket. The case gasket is MD189778. But you ALSO need two others (that a lot of people discover in the middle of their job!). You need the oil strainer (pickup tube) gasket MD183239 and the Oil Filter Bracket/housing gasket MD189779. Plus - have some new copper crush washers for your banjo bolt. A lot of times you can reuse them but to do things properly you should replace them.

If you are going for a race build hold off on this and consider getting aftermarket gears that can handle higher RPMs. If that is a choice you make then you need not buy a new oil pump and instead just change out the gears.

Make sure your pickup tube/strainer is in good shape and the little piece on the screen slightly bowed out. This is important! ALSO - make sure your oil pan is not dented in by some idiot jacking the car up @ the oil pan. This is VERY important tohave NO DENT in the bottom of your oil pan. It has been cited as one of the possible causes of oil starvation/cavitation (which will result in engine damage, ie - spun bearing)
I just checked the car this morning, I think the crank shaft main seal is leaking. Will changing the oil pump fix this issue? I assume the new oil pump should come with the main seal, right?
And, I checked a couple of places and figured that the OEM oil pump is discontinued for my model, so in this case, what is your suggestion, change an aftermarket one? I was thinking change the oil pump this time also because I want to do as much as I can in one visit. Thanks!
 

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I just checked the car this morning, I think the crank shaft main seal is leaking. Will changing the oil pump fix this issue? I assume the new oil pump should come with the main seal, right?
And, I checked a couple of places and figured that the OEM oil pump is discontinued for my model, so in this case, what is your suggestion, change an aftermarket one? I was thinking change the oil pump this time also because I want to do as much as I can in one visit. Thanks!
Far out. I just did an oil pump change and my god it's rather a job. Lots of pulling off bits and pieces just to get to it - including the crank sprocket hence redoing your timing. I'm not a mechanics arsehole but cannot see the point in changing out what is possibly a perfectly good pump. Mind you, you may have better access to those parts than here in New Zealand. I only changed mine because of damage to the oil pan seal area which was unfixable anyway and I used a pump off a donor car which seems to be working just fine. Yeah if you do the main seal you'll need to remove the pump, clean it up and put on a new seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Alright! the only thing left here is ...to put them ono_O



Why the surface is so rough on the water pump? will it be an issue?
 
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