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Discussion Starter #4
Correct after seeing the video over, looks like the right wheel only, and just at the start, looks like the rear right is of the ground for a split second.
I have raised the car so that now finally it doesn't rub in the driver front wheel well. See below how I finished at the road track last time.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would like the stiffer sway bar, maybe this winter.
I feel like she is diving too much.
 

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what is your setup? AWD? stock turbos? I've never seen a stock AWD car smoke a single rear wheel like that because it's supposed to be a rear LSD. So as lawdogg says, I suspect your rear limited slip differential is dead. I don't have my service manual with me, but i think if you put the car up on jack stands with the car in neutral, and you turn one rear wheel by hand, the other rear wheel should turn at the same speed in the same direction. The LSD is broken if the other wheel doesn't turn in the same direction at the same speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have not dyno the car, 15gs, 450cc, stage 2 clutch, (problem here too, the clutch slips down straight on road course so low boost about 14lbs) light weight flywheel, Pzeros, ks sports kontrol pro
Thank you guys, I will check the wheel rotations soon.
 

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ok, with AWD, I believe all 4 wheels have to be off the ground to do the differential test. When I did the test on my own car with all wheels off the ground and running in 1st gear, both rears turned same direction/speed, while only 1 front wheel spun because the front is an open differential.
https://www.3si.org/forum/f35/awd-wheel-rotation-jack-stands-816625/
 

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The OEM differentials in our cars were marginal when new and pretty useless with added years and power.

Its expensive - but if you are serious about auto-crossing and/or road courses, the absolute best upgrades are to add a front torque biasing diff and replace the center and rear diffs.

Lots of us have gone with a Quaife front, Torsen center diff and KAAZ rear diffs. Its the best combination you can get for our platform and its a combination that's race and rallyt proven in FWD based AWD platforms. It will totally transform the handling under power - all but eliminating front end push, putting up to 80% of the torque to the rear and eliminating the dreaded inside rear wheel spin.

Ideally do this first, then add quality coil-overs. Mueller will build a set of Ohlins that is optimized for the diffs and other mods.

Pro-tip - avoid messing with anti-sway bars - they are a band-aid that work by reducing overall grip. Fix the fundamentals first.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you guys, now Christmas seams really far away...
If it is only a performance issue, I will drive this way for a while, I'm having fun currently, if safety was at stake I will address it sooner.
 

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If no real issues continue having fun! If it were me I'd jack the car up and try to test the diffs, just to see what happens.

I hadn't noticed that wire harness pic you posted earlier, that's nuts ...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will certainly do that lift the car, , I also wanna try the AWS see if it work or not.
 

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My first thought would be more a combination of stiffness vs chassis rigidy vs lack of travel + oodles of grip causing the weight to be lifted off the inside tire in a hard corner - allowing it to spin?

Edit: after watching the video more closely though I agree to inspect the rear LSD...

Maybe its a combination of both? Either way, Car looked quick! So use to watching AutoX videos of these cars and they look like they are just understeering their ass off at 2mph at every transition.
 
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