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Scotty's 93 GTO - it's time !

32300 Views 236 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  FRR35H
So, talking with Mike on Thursday I got tingles about the GTO and the thought of getting her up and running hard. Here is my issue:

While I haven't had the car tuned as such, way back when I did get the car tuned after I had the car built and it had been run in, the car was set to 5 psi. The tuner turned the wick up to 12 psi and we did a couple of runs. We didn't get many runs done as after about the 3rd or 4th pull (open road) I dropped a cylinder. Now the main problem I was having (and still am) is that the boost doesn't come on hard like it should. It's a fairly consistent push, like watching the speedo climb. Now, there's no smoke from anywhere. I can hear the turbo's pushing air but I'm not sure if it's leaking, as that's what it seems like. Or maybe the waste gates???? Had the car dyno'd (power run) and at 5psi, she managed 2000awhp. Tuner said the timing is hell retarded and couldn't push past 5000 rpms.

Mods:

GT2781R turbo's, Haltech E11 V2 ecu
Custom manifolds, downpipe and dumps
Custom plumbing + FMIC
Custom cold air box
CP Pistons, (8:1) Pauter rods and 2nd Gen forged crank
Engine rebuilt and machined - Stage 3 heads
Blitz DUAL Solenoid EBC

Supra fuel pump, 780cc injectors, hotwire kit, KB BAP, AEM AFPR & eK2 fuel loop

Southbend DXD-FE clutch + orthodox flywheel, 2pce CFDS, LSE SS T-Case front & mid housings + 300M 18 spline OS

Intrax lowered springs
Rear Cusco strut brace
Enkei RPF1 rims 18 x 8.5 all round
Slotted DBA rotors front, stock rears
Battery relocated to rear

Starting tomorrow, I'll be getting Brad to help me suss out my ecu and see what's what, as well as log a few runs. Maybe something will show and tell us what we need to know. (timing, air/fuel etc)

What I need to work out first, is how I can pressure test my plumbing.







Options? Mike mentioned some aluminium plate and some tyre valves since I dont have a compressor. Can I do one side at a time?

Scotty
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Will be getting logs and maps from Brad sometime today so hopefully later on I can show you my cars brain and what she's thinking.

Thanks for that list Glen. I've already checked a couple of those off. Plugs are almost new and gapped according to 316. The plugs prior which had been in there for a good few years had a nice colour.

Something I should have mentioned before (but really dont know how to describe) is there is a noise that comes from the engine bay which is there not quite on boost. It kinda sounds like when you stick a card in between the spokes of a spinning wheel. When we did some 3rd gear pulls, you could really smell it in the car. Brads first thought was leaking rear manifold. We had a look but of course, you can't really see much back there so I should really pull that turbo out and have a look.

He called me on my way to work and mentioned that my TPS was reading 60% instead of 100%. I don't know how you can adjust that and why it's like that or if that has something to do with my lack of power. But that was interesting.

Scotty
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yes you can adjust TPS, but it could also mean the throttle cable is not adjusted correctly
Does the wheel spoke noise increase with rpm or speed?

The tps adjustment is going to have to be done in the ecu software as 40% out is way to much to be manually adjusted. Should make any difference to the tune, generally only acceleration enrichment and closed loop is TPS dependant and these are more interested in the 0-20% range being accurate.

First check that you are getting full throttle movement ( need two people. ) then there should be a calibrate area in the ecu settings.

I'm stuck in melbourne until friday night, hence the reason im on the forum more.

Post your log!

Glen
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The sound doesn't increase. It's just there.

I can't post logs until I've downloaded the software which I can't bloody find. lol Brad's going to send me the link soon.

Scotty
Haltech – Engine Management Systems ECU Software & Firmware

you need the ECU manager, keep in mind you DO NOT want to update your ECU's firmware without backing up the version of the firmware AND software first.

the reason I say this is your ECU is probably on some old software, I assume the software will come up and tell you what version you need as soon as you attempt to connect.
Scotty dont go tearing apart to just check for a leak. If you want to know then get a little sea foam and put it in the vac hoses as if you have an exhaust leak it will show.


Coop
The sound doesn't increase. It's just there.

I can't post logs until I've downloaded the software which I can't bloody find. lol Brad's going to send me the link soon.

Scotty
Is it a clicking relay? Mine makes a clicking noise when turning it off sometimes. Def sounds like a relay click.
Haltech – Engine Management Systems ECU Software & Firmware

you need the ECU manager, keep in mind you DO NOT want to update your ECU's firmware without backing up the version of the firmware AND software first.

the reason I say this is your ECU is probably on some old software, I assume the software will come up and tell you what version you need as soon as you attempt to connect.
I wont be doing that Mike. I'll wait for the tuner to update the ecu when she goes in whenever that is. And that link doesn't help me. I need a specific version (1.71 I think it is) for the ecu I have. I've asked the haltech forums for a link)

Scotty dont go tearing apart to just check for a leak. If you want to know then get a little sea foam and put it in the vac hoses as if you have an exhaust leak it will show.
I dont even think we have seafoam here do we??? Will check Supercheap out thanks Coop.

Is it a clicking relay? Mine makes a clicking noise when turning it off sometimes. Def sounds like a relay click.
It doesn't sound at all like a relay. It's almost a rattle and it kind of cycles if that makes any sense. You can really smell fumes at WOT and after I started her up that day, I saw smoke coming from the back of the engine. Now that may have been residue oil from a couple of small leaks on the rear manis, so I can't be sure.

Scotty
Sounds like a mani leak, I had the same before my rebuild. Prob have to get the mani skimed to flatten it.
if you can smell fumes then you 100% have an exhaust leak. Most likely from the manifolds. You might need to record that noise for us.
Well there could be a few way's to fix it. I'd say just check the torque of the bolts first and if not, as much of a PITA it is, replace the gasket!
I dont think its an exhaust leak causing this. It would have to be pretty big. Now there might be a small one but not causing this. I say work with the tune then if you still dont get what you want start looking for other issues.


Coop
you wanna borrow my HKS Twin Spark DLI and test if it's spark blow out from high boost? also are you running closed loop or open loop boost control? ie is the ECU controlling boost or a manual boost controller?
Thanks guys. If it's spark blow out, does it happen at a certain point or from low rpm's/boost? My boost (or lack thereof) is there from the get go.

Joe - thanks for the offer. I'll see what comes of the logs and mapping. I have a feeling the link I got from haltech is for pc's only. :eek:

Scotty
Spark blow out can happen at any time especially if you have weak coils and too big of a gap. Basically if the gap is too big or spark is too weak then the spark actually gets blown out by the boost/pressure. Which would explain why it would work fine on low boost then turn it up a bit and nothing but issues. Try lowering your gap a bit and see if it improves.

Also yes that link will be for windows. I'm yet to see an ECU building adding support of Apple. Maybe run virtual PC or similar and run Windows XP through the mac? Or I can send you a netbook to use if you want.
I can load it up on our pc.

And I forgot to answer you, I'm running an EBC - Blitz Dual Solenoid. We double checked the in and outs are going to the right spots of the WG.

Scotty
Your going to have a small issue of tuning for higher boost. As you currently setup and tuned for low boost you can't simply increase the boost as it hasn't been tuned to handle it. I suspect you will have to get it on a dyno and tune and log to work it out. You cna just turn up the boost but it's not recommended.
Until I work out what the boost problem is, I'm not touching the EBC.

Scotty
the problem is you can't test if it's fixed or even test theories without increasing the boost.....
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