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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, talking with Mike on Thursday I got tingles about the GTO and the thought of getting her up and running hard. Here is my issue:

While I haven't had the car tuned as such, way back when I did get the car tuned after I had the car built and it had been run in, the car was set to 5 psi. The tuner turned the wick up to 12 psi and we did a couple of runs. We didn't get many runs done as after about the 3rd or 4th pull (open road) I dropped a cylinder. Now the main problem I was having (and still am) is that the boost doesn't come on hard like it should. It's a fairly consistent push, like watching the speedo climb. Now, there's no smoke from anywhere. I can hear the turbo's pushing air but I'm not sure if it's leaking, as that's what it seems like. Or maybe the waste gates???? Had the car dyno'd (power run) and at 5psi, she managed 2000awhp. Tuner said the timing is hell retarded and couldn't push past 5000 rpms.

Mods:

GT2781R turbo's, Haltech E11 V2 ecu
Custom manifolds, downpipe and dumps
Custom plumbing + FMIC
Custom cold air box
CP Pistons, (8:1) Pauter rods and 2nd Gen forged crank
Engine rebuilt and machined - Stage 3 heads
Blitz DUAL Solenoid EBC

Supra fuel pump, 780cc injectors, hotwire kit, KB BAP, AEM AFPR & eK2 fuel loop

Southbend DXD-FE clutch + orthodox flywheel, 2pce CFDS, LSE SS T-Case front & mid housings + 300M 18 spline OS

Intrax lowered springs
Rear Cusco strut brace
Enkei RPF1 rims 18 x 8.5 all round
Slotted DBA rotors front, stock rears
Battery relocated to rear

Starting tomorrow, I'll be getting Brad to help me suss out my ecu and see what's what, as well as log a few runs. Maybe something will show and tell us what we need to know. (timing, air/fuel etc)

What I need to work out first, is how I can pressure test my plumbing.







Options? Mike mentioned some aluminium plate and some tyre valves since I dont have a compressor. Can I do one side at a time?

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's not the piston rings as this has been happening ever since the build. There's also no smoke. ;)

As for the cylinder, the car just stopped at WOT and then started coughing and spluttering. After about 10 - 15 minutes of getting back to the shop, it cleared itself and was fine after that.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Scotty:

Can't wait to see you get this thing going! Gonna be awesome!

Do you think the problem is mechanical or electrical?
I honestly believe it's the timing as per what the tuner said. He was confident (after he drove my car) and going off the ecu's mapping he was sure we'd see some power. The only reason I think I have a boost leak is that I can't see how (as I'm a complete inexperienced noob as far as tuning goes) you can go from f*ck all power, to almost 600 ponies just by advancing the timing and making a few other adjustments. As for the plumbing, it was brand new when I had all the work done and acts exactly the same now as it did back then. (almost 5 years ago)

Scotty this is good news,
Check timing is always good. Pressure test without compressor or any flash equipment. Try this, Old motorbike tube. Cut whatever distance you need either side of valve. Old truck radiator hose. Cut hole in middle. Put m/bike tube inside hose with valve poking out hole. Clamp whole deal where you want to test pressure. Find bycycle tyre pump and start pumping. Measure with your car tyre guage. No exspense spared bush mechanic here. Youll find all that at your local dump. Probably even a bycycle attatched to the pump good enough to ride home. Townies are wasteful, always check dump first!
You're a classic John. lol I'm looking into that today. :)

MORE PICS MOARR AHHH!!! You can get mike to braze some alu together :0 but really just connect those pipes somehow. Get a little comp from supercheapz (not the tiny black ones). I snipped they tyre connection of mine and can connect it when needed. Slip that over a nipple somewhere u have a IAT sensor or something where I connect mine. Turn it on and look at your boost gauge turn it off at like 10 psi or something listen for air leaks tighten go to 15 psi next and so forth. You can test ur wastegate function too make sure they open together.

Can you please put a pic or your rear strut brace?






waaaaaa...... where can I get me one of those??? watch out Nelson her comes Scotty :p

btw Scoot, you have probably the most powerful setup in Australia at the moment, your setup sounds like a wishlist you stupid bum :p

sort it out asap, wish i lived locally, coulda helped you rip it apart and sort it out.
I know Mads. I'm working on it. :p

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Will be getting logs and maps from Brad sometime today so hopefully later on I can show you my cars brain and what she's thinking.

Thanks for that list Glen. I've already checked a couple of those off. Plugs are almost new and gapped according to 316. The plugs prior which had been in there for a good few years had a nice colour.

Something I should have mentioned before (but really dont know how to describe) is there is a noise that comes from the engine bay which is there not quite on boost. It kinda sounds like when you stick a card in between the spokes of a spinning wheel. When we did some 3rd gear pulls, you could really smell it in the car. Brads first thought was leaking rear manifold. We had a look but of course, you can't really see much back there so I should really pull that turbo out and have a look.

He called me on my way to work and mentioned that my TPS was reading 60% instead of 100%. I don't know how you can adjust that and why it's like that or if that has something to do with my lack of power. But that was interesting.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Haltech – Engine Management Systems ECU Software & Firmware

you need the ECU manager, keep in mind you DO NOT want to update your ECU's firmware without backing up the version of the firmware AND software first.

the reason I say this is your ECU is probably on some old software, I assume the software will come up and tell you what version you need as soon as you attempt to connect.
I wont be doing that Mike. I'll wait for the tuner to update the ecu when she goes in whenever that is. And that link doesn't help me. I need a specific version (1.71 I think it is) for the ecu I have. I've asked the haltech forums for a link)

Scotty dont go tearing apart to just check for a leak. If you want to know then get a little sea foam and put it in the vac hoses as if you have an exhaust leak it will show.
I dont even think we have seafoam here do we??? Will check Supercheap out thanks Coop.

Is it a clicking relay? Mine makes a clicking noise when turning it off sometimes. Def sounds like a relay click.
It doesn't sound at all like a relay. It's almost a rattle and it kind of cycles if that makes any sense. You can really smell fumes at WOT and after I started her up that day, I saw smoke coming from the back of the engine. Now that may have been residue oil from a couple of small leaks on the rear manis, so I can't be sure.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thanks guys. If it's spark blow out, does it happen at a certain point or from low rpm's/boost? My boost (or lack thereof) is there from the get go.

Joe - thanks for the offer. I'll see what comes of the logs and mapping. I have a feeling the link I got from haltech is for pc's only. :eek:

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I can load it up on our pc.

And I forgot to answer you, I'm running an EBC - Blitz Dual Solenoid. We double checked the in and outs are going to the right spots of the WG.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Stock cams Brad. I might come over again this weekend to use your compressor if you are able to get away from the fam.

Joe - I have no idea how to do that. I'm guessing you literally mean wrap some wire round the gate and prevent it from opening?

Thanks Paul. I'm slowly trying to get this done. I can't do anything during the week so need to wait till this weekend.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Hmmm. Maybe. I dont think it does, well maybe not in psi??? I'll check.

Mike - I haven't spent too much money on this car in a while (besides fixing it) for a reason. Priorities. :p I also haven't needed to monitor boost as there's bugger all and the pro sport I bought died after it was installed.

Scotty
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Scotty are you logging widebands and timing? also could you possibly get your ecu to log in psi lol little bit confusing lmao

If you could get a log of your O2 and timing that would tell a really good picture of whats going on tune wise. Also yes, I agree with Joe, TPS < 60 is a bit funky, sumfin wong there
Sorry bout my late reply Mads. Not doing WB at the moment. That's a 'once I'm boosting hard and really need to monitor my situation' kinda thing. Also known as can't afford the gear right now. lol

Scotty are you able to install the software on a PC at all? cus I worked out how to calibrate the TPS. You don't need to drive the car to do it so even if it's a desktop that you can setup in the garage. Should only take 30 seconds once you have it all connected.
I'de need Brads help for that but I'm sure it could be arranged. Really need to get a cheap laptop but can't afford that either. :( It's a curious thing with the TPS and why it's set to such a low percentage. I know the tuner in Sydney mentioned nothing about that.

Scotty
 
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