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GTO's a happening
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, talking with Mike on Thursday I got tingles about the GTO and the thought of getting her up and running hard. Here is my issue:

While I haven't had the car tuned as such, way back when I did get the car tuned after I had the car built and it had been run in, the car was set to 5 psi. The tuner turned the wick up to 12 psi and we did a couple of runs. We didn't get many runs done as after about the 3rd or 4th pull (open road) I dropped a cylinder. Now the main problem I was having (and still am) is that the boost doesn't come on hard like it should. It's a fairly consistent push, like watching the speedo climb. Now, there's no smoke from anywhere. I can hear the turbo's pushing air but I'm not sure if it's leaking, as that's what it seems like. Or maybe the waste gates???? Had the car dyno'd (power run) and at 5psi, she managed 2000awhp. Tuner said the timing is hell retarded and couldn't push past 5000 rpms.

Mods:

GT2781R turbo's, Haltech E11 V2 ecu
Custom manifolds, downpipe and dumps
Custom plumbing + FMIC
Custom cold air box
CP Pistons, (8:1) Pauter rods and 2nd Gen forged crank
Engine rebuilt and machined - Stage 3 heads
Blitz DUAL Solenoid EBC

Supra fuel pump, 780cc injectors, hotwire kit, KB BAP, AEM AFPR & eK2 fuel loop

Southbend DXD-FE clutch + orthodox flywheel, 2pce CFDS, LSE SS T-Case front & mid housings + 300M 18 spline OS

Intrax lowered springs
Rear Cusco strut brace
Enkei RPF1 rims 18 x 8.5 all round
Slotted DBA rotors front, stock rears
Battery relocated to rear

Starting tomorrow, I'll be getting Brad to help me suss out my ecu and see what's what, as well as log a few runs. Maybe something will show and tell us what we need to know. (timing, air/fuel etc)

What I need to work out first, is how I can pressure test my plumbing.







Options? Mike mentioned some aluminium plate and some tyre valves since I dont have a compressor. Can I do one side at a time?

Scotty
 

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Heya Scoot, my brilliant skills of deduction has arrived at the following conclusion ... :p

lol.... either your wg is opening prematurely for whatever reason or your piston rings are worn (or I could be wrong) but i'd say most likely these are the cause unless you have some massive boost leak somewhere. Now you said you built your engine and hit hadnt dont much km's since, i'd be looking at the wg's as a major suspect (if no big boost leaks)

testing for boost leaks is quite easy actually, get a peice of pvc pipe aprox the diameter of your preturbo intake pipes, get your self a tyre valve or a compressor hose fitting (male end) cut a hole in the pvc pipe and jbweld the biatch in. Then get some silicone hose, clamp it up and pressure test the intake with a compressor. Also NO you cant test one at a time as your pipes merge together before the intake pipe to the engine.

Also can you please explain what you meant when you said you "dropped" a cylinder. As in what happened, did you lose a coil pack or something like that???

I just found out that the reason am stuck on 22psi at 95% wastegate is cos the flappers were being pushed open at 20psi so the turbos were really struggling from that point onwards. I'll just wait till my new turbos arrive to sort this problem out.
 

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GTO's a happening
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14,000 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It's not the piston rings as this has been happening ever since the build. There's also no smoke. ;)

As for the cylinder, the car just stopped at WOT and then started coughing and spluttering. After about 10 - 15 minutes of getting back to the shop, it cleared itself and was fine after that.

Scotty
 

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Premium Member
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I made this just the other day for a stock car, yours would be about the same just measure the given diameter of the pipes.

I am almost with the lower compression too or your tune sucks...if your tune sucks you will not spool like you want.


Coop
 

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Just lucky I guess.
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1,529 Posts
Scotty this is good news,
Check timing is always good. Pressure test without compressor or any flash equipment. Try this, Old motorbike tube. Cut whatever distance you need either side of valve. Old truck radiator hose. Cut hole in middle. Put m/bike tube inside hose with valve poking out hole. Clamp whole deal where you want to test pressure. Find bycycle tyre pump and start pumping. Measure with your car tyre guage. No exspense spared bush mechanic here. Youll find all that at your local dump. Probably even a bycycle attatched to the pump good enough to ride home. Townies are wasteful, always check dump first!
 

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Definitely check your timing Scotty, when my car jumped a couple of teeth I was getting no boost, I could here one turbo trying to boost but isn't wasn't enough.

Check to see after a bit of a run if you have air blowing out of your turbo inlet, but def check timing.
 

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Well done ol' son. Love the new enthusiam! :thumbsup:
 

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MORE PICS MOARR AHHH!!! You can get mike to braze some alu together :0 but really just connect those pipes somehow. Get a little comp from supercheapz (not the tiny black ones). I snipped they tyre connection of mine and can connect it when needed. Slip that over a nipple somewhere u have a IAT sensor or something where I connect mine. Turn it on and look at your boost gauge turn it off at like 10 psi or something listen for air leaks tighten go to 15 psi next and so forth. You can test ur wastegate function too make sure they open together.

Can you please put a pic or your rear strut brace?
 

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OMG Scoooooty 2000awhp at 5psi......Using Rocket Fuel are we :):qgiggity:
waaaaaa...... where can I get me one of those??? watch out Nelson her comes Scotty :p

btw Scoot, you have probably the most powerful setup in Australia at the moment, your setup sounds like a wishlist you stupid bum :p

sort it out asap, wish i lived locally, coulda helped you rip it apart and sort it out.
 

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GTO's a happening
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14,000 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Scotty:

Can't wait to see you get this thing going! Gonna be awesome!

Do you think the problem is mechanical or electrical?
I honestly believe it's the timing as per what the tuner said. He was confident (after he drove my car) and going off the ecu's mapping he was sure we'd see some power. The only reason I think I have a boost leak is that I can't see how (as I'm a complete inexperienced noob as far as tuning goes) you can go from f*ck all power, to almost 600 ponies just by advancing the timing and making a few other adjustments. As for the plumbing, it was brand new when I had all the work done and acts exactly the same now as it did back then. (almost 5 years ago)

Scotty this is good news,
Check timing is always good. Pressure test without compressor or any flash equipment. Try this, Old motorbike tube. Cut whatever distance you need either side of valve. Old truck radiator hose. Cut hole in middle. Put m/bike tube inside hose with valve poking out hole. Clamp whole deal where you want to test pressure. Find bycycle tyre pump and start pumping. Measure with your car tyre guage. No exspense spared bush mechanic here. Youll find all that at your local dump. Probably even a bycycle attatched to the pump good enough to ride home. Townies are wasteful, always check dump first!
You're a classic John. lol I'm looking into that today. :)

MORE PICS MOARR AHHH!!! You can get mike to braze some alu together :0 but really just connect those pipes somehow. Get a little comp from supercheapz (not the tiny black ones). I snipped they tyre connection of mine and can connect it when needed. Slip that over a nipple somewhere u have a IAT sensor or something where I connect mine. Turn it on and look at your boost gauge turn it off at like 10 psi or something listen for air leaks tighten go to 15 psi next and so forth. You can test ur wastegate function too make sure they open together.

Can you please put a pic or your rear strut brace?






waaaaaa...... where can I get me one of those??? watch out Nelson her comes Scotty :p

btw Scoot, you have probably the most powerful setup in Australia at the moment, your setup sounds like a wishlist you stupid bum :p

sort it out asap, wish i lived locally, coulda helped you rip it apart and sort it out.
I know Mads. I'm working on it. :p

Scotty
 

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4L 6G74 Stroker FWD NA
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3,327 Posts
I'd chuck it up on jackstands and check the timing myself. Always good to 100% know the basics are spot on before continuing to other areas.

Best of luck figuring this out scotty!
 

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one day
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483 Posts
Hello Scotty,

The dropped cyl may be very rich tune causing the plugs to foul up. But at that level, black smoke hiding a small planet would have been following you.

Do you have a wideband? if not, then you need one :D

I would be checking cam timing and then elec timing. I've had it with my old lancer that the cam timing was 1 tooth out and the boost came on soo late.

soo, checklist for me would be:

1. boost leaks
2. wastegates
3. cam timing
4. base timing ( don't forget to check the ecu base timing aka 10* in the sensor setup, mabe different with the haltech. )
5. ecu timing
6. ecu air/fuel mix
7. spark plugs
8. coil packs
9. leads

Glen
 

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Twin Turbo
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5,115 Posts
I notice you have no induction improvements. Maybe a weak spark? spark blow out at higher boost? what plugs and gap are you running? maybe time for a HKS Twin Spark DLI?

Could also be waste gates as mentioned already. Do you know what they are set for?
 

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Twin Turbo
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I think he means physically check it. You don't need a timing light for that. Just make sure all the marks line up correctly.
 

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4L 6G74 Stroker FWD NA
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3,327 Posts
As above ^ just incase she's skipped a tooth, never know if the tensioner is screwed or once was.
 

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Just lucky I guess.
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1,529 Posts
Scotty, Cheaper, easier, More better! Pretty much everything in the picture would be in a tyre place skip bin. If you need bigger flexible hose ask for "donkey dick" comes in all sizes,bends every which way, good for getting old trucks you can't get parts for mobile. I didnt get your DVD yet but it has to go through a time warp to get here.
Probably Wednesday.



Have Fun. I can make air leak anywhere so youll do it easy.
 
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