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1992 3000GT VR4
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1992 3000GT VR4

Started off bare bones stock
I'm the 3rd owner

Lots of aftermarket parts strapped on

Parts and work done so far as I've taken it to another level (from stock)

Jester Chrome ECU / AEM boost & AFR / AEM honda style FPR / 850cc FIC injectors / AEM MAC boost solenoid / NGK coil packs - NGK heat range 7 cooper plugs gapped to 0.032 / ARASHI 20T'S / stage 3 drive trane (torsen - quaife) limited slip front to back / T case 300m + caged / stock rear diff / all wheel steering (working) / 3SX south bend stage 3 plus drag clutch kit / new stock flywheel / Fluidampr (balancer) / 3SX short throw shifter (bearing) / self made lift linkage shifter spacer (trans side of shift cables) / 2 piece aluminum to steel drive shaft / Tannabe concept g blue medallion exhaust (full length to down pipes) / stock down pipes with rear gutted / EGR delete - AC delete / cams stock - heads stock (3SX big bore lifters) - block stock / DNA dual core radiator / Mishimoto Rad fans with shroud / K&N air filter kit / CXracing dual core front mount innercooler / @TurboSinceBirth pre turbo inlet hard pipes / dual catch cans / polyurethane press in tranny - motor mounts (4 corners) / ECS delete Ksport street coilovers ride height taken down slightly / stock wheels tire size taken down just a hair to 245 40 R17 / Detroit Axle Front CV axels / Front Detroit Axle hub bearings / high speed oil cooler fan (stock cooler) / aftermarket power steering cooler
Good bit of misc upgrades in the interior
But this is the basic run down thus far

And some of many pics to follow up

12 / 01 / 18
When this aftermarket tiff started

Long story short I got in a hurry doing valve stem seals while heads were still on the block using compressed air to hold my valves up
Well speedy here dropped an exhaust valve
(Yes down into the abyss - cylinder)
The car was talking to me and said something that involved the F word

It needed the complete tare down regardless
(Carbon deposits were pretty bad)

The pic on the day it all started
12-01-18




So here are some updates pics as I try to shove these 20T's in




Clocking and my hard line issues which I didn't want to spend the extra time in making the OEM coolant lines and feed lines work so I got the Arashi braided hoses and new oil feed lines
( this is also after destroying my oem 9b's 420 ish HP on 15lbs of boost ) white smoke bad
Oil seals in turbos couldnt handle what I was giving them
But some take the extra time to make the old hoses work which is either or route
"Running stock turbo drain hard pipes"
(Note that some kits come with a reduced bore banjo bolt which I happen to stumble upon while installing the oil feed hoses that I got from Arashi) as @Turbo Powered brought this to my attention in another thread (Thanks bro thought this thing had a special place) when I asked where this suspect banjo bolt goes



Answer was simple DON'T USE IT!
Having journal bearing turbos would make enough sense in why NOT to use it
(For future references)



Another reason you might wanna clean up your old oil feed lines is because of this situation I have encountered
The 2 bolt holes closet to the top right corner of this picture will be getting a flange made from 16gauge sheet metal with another strait cut piece going down the middle of it beveled downwards so the 2 bolts that go thru the belt tensioner bracket for Alternator can be bolted up to this made from scratch bracket
As of the cast iron bracket (AC compressor bracket will get completely deleted from the car instead of chopping it to bits)
Will make something completely basic from scratch to hold the tensioner bracket and give it some support
Reason I'm deleting the entire bracket is that 1 I'm not cutting it 2 the Arashi oil feed line weither or not its facing up or down on that banjo bolt the bracket will not lay flat to bolt back up properly plus its directly in front of to bolt holes in the block to hold the OEM bracket in place







Looks like the Sheet metal got a black eye



Ruffing things in
Gonna try to get away with cutting least amount of metal as I possibly can
So the front motor mount is directly under the front turbo the gap between the turbine housing and the top section of the mount (block side cast iron) ther is about 1/8 inch gap which is pretty freaking close
Now the charge side of compressor housing is another issue ( front turbo )
This lines up directly beside the front motor mount I am going to try to sneak past this which is nearly impossible

Example


Shouldve taken a better before pic of the front side as well
But the compressor housing (exit) is laying directly on the side of the lower half of the motor mount (steel part to bushing) now with that being sad the point in which the turbine housing on turbo to the exhaust manifold mating surfaces are not gonna tighten being that they are at a bad angles
because of how the compressor housing is laying against the mount pulling the turbo at an angle more towards the passenger side

This could be as simple as cut the lower steel mount for clearance for inner cooler piping to hook up properly or try to find aftermarket parts to fix this issue which I will probably end up having to do
Kinda like cross between hard headed and figuring things out to make it your own lol

I haven't crossed this mile stone just yet gonna need to put more things back in it as I have ran into a couple other issues that need addressing as well ....
I have not gotten to the rear turbo yet other then clocking it and setting my wastegate pressure (dual springs)

What im up against at this moment
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·




I did have to bevel some for clearance for the rear turbo compressor housing
Not bad free handed with a dremel lol

Rear turbo fitting with Arashi hoses

Replacing the 2 bolts for studs because the bolts are to long and they bottom out in the turbine housing when bolted up to exhaust manifold
Explanation photos below




Arashi coolant turbo hose kit
The braided hose can either go up or down I haven't got this far in which route is going to use but strait toward compressor housing is not gonna work less you have an additional adaptor to extend it out further from the center turbo cartridge




Hopefully I can go upwards to keep from having to either go around or in between the wastegate arm trying to stay away from that area wastegate needs to function smoothly with nothing touching them or rubbing them




For my oil cooler and sending unit
Figured I would go ahead and upgrade the old dry rot hoses and deep clean the oil cooler & sending until as seal was leaking as you can see in the perimeter

When I killed the 9b's it sent quit a bit of silver glitter throughout my engine
When I drained my oil it had a hase of grayish looking color as I shined a flash light into it wasn't reassuring or up lifting at all
So everything that held oil got ripped off and cleaned



I had to play with these as well
The cross member on driver side going from front to back (subframe) sits really close to these A N fittings think I also got that figured out but using these angled ones will have the braided hose diving strait into the cross member rubbing etc....
Trying to keep everything on that side of the cross members just in case I scrub on these garbage South Carolina roads we have






10 inch atv high speed radiator fan that I have strapped to the OEM oil cooler works wonders
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


Ah yes the power steering cooler



BIG!

Might have had to much down time again I come up with some weird things when given to much time alone in my thoughts

Before



And now

So I grabbed a small compact style air horn and it's pronounced!! Let me tell ya
Its Loud enough for me
So it also got crammed in there and I got rid of the OEM road runner meep meeps!





Passenger front corner






Surprisingly enough after I made a custom bracket for it
It's not rubbing on anything in there lol
3mm gaps all way round it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For interests in that compact horn it sounds just like this video link
Fast forward to 1:45 for the music
Fella talk real soft but the horn makes up for it
But be warned turn your D*** volume down lol
 

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So here are some updates pics as I try to shove these 20T's in

View attachment 307378
I think I must have rotated the factory coolant line up to get more clearance for it before bending because it wasn't far off.


Just bend it a little after that. Picture via Hans at 3S Warehouse.



That kind of reminds me I need to do a full write-up on here for these Arashi turbos. Maybe I can do that tomorrow evening. You have to grind the motor mount bracket to clear the compressor outlet on the front turbo because it doesn't curve out and away like the factory one does. Here's a pic from Tommy that fit his Arashi turbos on his Fiji VR-4:



I'll go ahead and add some pictures here for reference since it'll give people an idea of what it looks like. If you clock the turbo in the factory orientation to fit your existing intercooler piping with a 2" coupler, you will run into the compressor housing hitting like this:





And then that ends up making it where the turbo won't bolt up tight to the exhaust causing this gap:




So you either end up grinding the motor mount bracket some or what I ended up doing in a way of simplifying a few things on a customer's car as well as making something available for the community, was go ahead and design up an ETS style front turbo intercooler piping along the subframe so it won't go up and over the hot exhaust manifold. It shortened the piping by 31" and made it easier to work on.




You can see more details and pics in the sale thread: ETS Style Front Under The Turbo Intercooler Pipe Routing.... Anyways, I'm not trying to push anything but wanted to make some people aware of some options for install since all of this to me was really easy but I do know that quite a few people get scared away by it. You could get $3400 DR-750 20T clipped HL turbos or you can save some money and get Arashi 20T-HL turbos for $1072 and just do a couple simple mods to get them to fit. Bending one rear coolant line, notching the front motor mount bracket, clocking the front turbo, running two 2" couplers on the turbo outlets, and installing a slim fan on the passenger side all seems worth it to me considering you're saving over $2k for something that will get you 95% of the power output. These are really solid turbos and I wouldn't doubt they have hundreds of sets out there. I'd buy them in a heartbeat if I was doing a bolt-on TD04 build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think I must have rotated the factory coolant line up to get more clearance for it before bending because it wasn't far off.
View attachment 307408

Just bend it a little after that. Picture via Hans at 3S Warehouse.
View attachment 307409


That kind of reminds me I need to do a full write-up on here for these Arashi turbos. Maybe I can do that tomorrow evening. You have to grind the motor mount bracket to clear the compressor outlet on the front turbo because it doesn't curve out and away like the factory one does. Here's a pic from Tommy that fit his Arashi turbos on his Fiji VR-4:
View attachment 307410


I'll go ahead and add some pictures here for reference since it'll give people an idea of what it looks like. If you clock the turbo in the factory orientation to fit your existing intercooler piping with a 2" coupler, you will run into the compressor housing hitting like this:

View attachment 307411



And then that ends up making it where the turbo won't bolt up tight to the exhaust causing this gap:
View attachment 307412



So you either end up grinding the motor mount bracket some or what I ended up doing in a way of simplifying a few things on a customer's car as well as making something available for the community, was go ahead and design up an ETS style front turbo intercooler piping along the subframe so it won't go up and over the hot exhaust manifold. It shortened the piping by 31" and made it easier to work on.

View attachment 307413


You can see more details and pics in the sale thread: ETS Style Front Under The Turbo Intercooler Pipe Routing.... Anyways, I'm not trying to push anything but wanted to make some people aware of some options for install since all of this to me was really easy but I do know that quite a few people get scared away by it. You could get $3400 DR-750 20T clipped HL turbos or you can save some money and get Arashi 20T-HL turbos for $1072 and just do a couple simple mods to get them to fit. Bending one rear coolant line, notching the front motor mount bracket, clocking the front turbo, running two 2" couplers on the turbo outlets, and installing a slim fan on the passenger side all seems worth it to me considering you're saving over $2k for something that will get you 95% of the power output. These are really solid turbos and I wouldn't doubt they have hundreds of sets out there. I'd buy them in a heartbeat if I was doing a bolt-on TD04 build.

Awesome!
appreciate the pics and added info bro
Still in garage looking at how I wanna run this bracket to delete the entire cast iron bracket that cradles the AC compressor
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rear turbo
Arashi hoses
Example of length



Might get this fella installed tomm ( rear turbo )
Gotta wait till I get a bracket made for the alternator belt tensioner assembly
Least get one installed lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Well looking promising so far
See how it does when installed
Hummmm yeah she is tight in there but I think I can pull it off
With a small rubber buffer pad should be good to go if I need it









The lower charge pipe will be pulled up within reason with everything else and turned slightly to fit just right


 

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It looks like you’ll be able to make it and since you have slim fans you won’t get into the fan with it that way as well. I can’t tell how far the coupler has to kind of jig jog over but given that bend in the coupler it should help. By the time you get it figured out you may have a third option for installing the turbos. It won’t require grinding the motor mount bracket and may also only require one shortened down coupler bend. That’ll help simplify it for some.

I thought on my car I deleted that whole A/C bracket because the previous owners deleted everything on the A/C but I may also have just deleted the A/C and alternator tensioners just running one belt looped to the crank and the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It looks like you’ll be able to make it and since you have slim fans you won’t get into the fan with it that way as well. I can’t tell how far the coupler has to kind of jig jog over but given that bend in the coupler it should help. By the time you get it figured out you may have a third option for installing the turbos. It won’t require grinding the motor mount bracket and may also only require one shortened down coupler bend. That’ll help simplify it for some.

I thought on my car I deleted that whole A/C bracket because the previous owners deleted everything on the A/C but I may also have just deleted the A/C and alternator tensioners just running one belt looped to the crank and the alternator.
Also have thought about stretch belt but I have to figure out the size that needs to go in there
Think im running a 415k6 with AC deleted
Leaves me with 1/2 gap between the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley ( AC - Alternator )
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Looks like more weight coming off the car lol
But parts intacted
Gonna wrap a wire round both the alternator pulley and the crank pulley
Give me a basic measurement
Go back to work tomm I'll find a K6 ribbed stretch belt and post back here in which one works the best
Love to kill 2 more pulleys ( these pulleys are OEM lol ) and tensioner bracket see how my alternator likes it

Ther is also another way that you can keep the tensioner assembly
Like my original thought of making a bracket to support the tensioner would also work with deleting the entire AC compressor bracket simple welded T bracket strait down the backside of tensioner assembly which is perfectly aligned



(Thinking ahead of myself don't wanna kill the alternator bearings with an over tighten stretch belt)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
These mishimoto dual fans they move air but not as fast as the OEM dual speed fans tripped on High
Note if you look at the back of the OEM fan motors 2 wires go into the left and 2 wires go into the right side of each fan motor
( for low and high speeds per fan ) with resistor
These mishimoto fans when applied to 12 volts directly they blow just fine as if the oem fans turned on low
there only 2 wire for one speed (mishimoto fans)
So others previously to me doing this swap for clearance to the fan shroud and or fan frames have used other slim fans or have ran dual AC fans pulling the deeper frame Radiator fan (passenger side) out an run dual AC OEM fans rewired on the Radiator fan side

Here is a pic of the clearance that I have
Will see how these mishimoto fans work for me some have cooling issues with them
others get away with it working just fine
But I'll have these constant always on (engine on when warmed up) see how they do



Yeah it's pretty tight everything dry fitted loosely nothing is torqued down yet
 

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393K6 is the belt I used for direct from the alternator to the crank pulley. I wondered if it would be too tight and I did have to use a prybar to get the alternator bracket in place to bolt it up. I did it in 2012 and am surprised it's still going since it seemed tight. I go the idea from here: Modified Accessory Belt Routing Complete (PICS). The first page does still have working pictures and you do need to grind a little off the alternator bracket but it was super easy.

There's also another way if you want to add an alternator tensioner in place of the idler upper pulley. I saw someone use the factory timing belt tensioner with a coupler of spacers/washers behind it and installed in place of the idler. It worked to tension the belt. I want to say Larry Koren that set some FWD TT DR-650 records had posted a pic but it was on FB I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well a lot of newer vehicles are using stretch belts even for full drive serpentine belts with absolutely no tensioners what so ever with maybe 1 idler
You could always swap that belt with same size to a stretch belt
Which I hate installing but they give you a little bit more flex then a regular belt meant for a tensioner

Ford and Chevy have used these on the AC compressors
Other couple makes and models have used for main drive belts (no tensioners)
 

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Nice write up, the turbos you got are the ones I'd probably go to if I ever upgrade mine, so thanks for the detailed information on how you got them on. Fun build, looking forward to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Find out that half the time this tool works and other times you just wanna throw it across the shop lol
Find it easier to walk it on with small to medium size Philips head screw driver as I turn the crank pop it on with out damaging the belt
(Others use the zip tie method this doesn't always work with the a crank pulley thats solid with no holes thru it)

 

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Rear turbo
Arashi hoses
Example of length

View attachment 307414

Might get this fella installed tomm ( rear turbo )
Gotta wait till I get a bracket made for the alternator belt tensioner assembly
Least get one installed lol
Willing to share the specs (brand/type of the vacuum hoses?
Cheers LBZ
 
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