ok. My $.02
When you say, 'they shook alot' Do you mean:
a) The wheel itself, but NOT the suspension arms and strust assemblies?
b) The entire wheel and strut assembly, but NOT the lower suspension arm assembly?
or C) The Wheel strut, and also the lower suspension assembly all moved, but not a whole lot.
If it's A, then you're bearings are probably going bad inside the hub knuckle. This ranges in price, depending upon how bad, how long you've been driving around, and whether or not the spindle hub (which the tire and brake rotor is attached to) is worn from a bad bearing, the hub itself is worn, or if it's just the bearings that are bad. (The hub assembly being bad ends up being SUPER pricey... about a grand for each side I've HEARD(don't know for sure, never done it myself)
If it's B, then your strut may be bad. This is not as bad a repair, probably around 300 per side (new strut, plus an alignement after the install. This IS something you can do yourself, at most with the help of a fellow 3Si member.
and lastly, if it's C, then it's all suspension bushing most likely. That's also going to be a PITA, because if the bushings are torn, dry rotted very badly, or just generally don't want to come out nice nice, then it will be more involved labor (read, $$ for your mechanic) to remove them carefully, with a minimum of damage to the good parts surrounding the bushing (collars, ball joints, etc.)
Mike has it right for the 'grabbing' . It's the brakes. The Rotors on these cars are notorious for warping. Many people have issues with them. Add to that, the dealer replacement (you know, the one's prone to warping
) are pricey.
A better solution, is to get new aftermarket rotors. If you don't drive hard, then there are a few guys that sell rotors quite inexpensively, that are reported to be made from blank stock coming from high end companies such as Bembro or Stillen. To save costs, these guys take the affordable blanks, and grind and cut them to spec for fitment to our cars. And entire set all around is around $250. Better then the cost of one Pair of stock dealer rotors.
install is very easy for these as Mike mentioned. Just remove caliper, pop off old rotor (rears have removal bolts, front requires a soft rubber mallet) push new rotor on, install new pads in calipers, and bolt calipers on. Experienced person can do all four corners in under 2 hours. Novice will take about an hour each, with the time getting less per wheel.
Here's my opinion on what's happening in your car, just from what I hear (this is my guesstimate)
You're front bearing have been going slowly. (yikes) As they wear, they create play in your wheels, which is exaggerated during turning, and aggravates the brakes HEAVILY (most braking is done right before or during turning) This puts alot of pressure on the rotors in ways they rotors were not designed to handle, because the rotors are no longer spinning in the perfect vertical plane that they were intended, in comparison to the plane the caliper is designed to clamp down on. (caliper is attached to hub (no play) and the rotor is attached to the now 'floating' hub)
So, your rotors got burnt up and warped because of the bearings. So don't bother replacing the rotors until you figure out what is going on with the wheel play.
That's my stab. If someone thinks I'm wrong, or has alternate ideas, post up. I'm curious to learn.
Good Luck dude.
Elton
