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Discussion Starter #1
I got my "Gus Paulos Chevrolet" emblem off my car OK, apparently they had been through that before and told me that it will "come right off" with a little tug, and not to worry about peeling the paint off...they were right. HOWEVER, the little Mitubishi diamond on the front is really cracked, and I have purchased a new replacement emblem, and I have to remove the old one...WITHOUT REMOVING ANY PAINT! I know a lot of you have "De-emblemed" your cars...how did you do it without damaging or peeling off the paint...or do they mostly just come right off? Is is better when hot outside, cold outside? Just yank and pull or try to scrape them with a razor? Chemicals? "Goof-off"?
Please enlighten me! I'd rather have an old cracked diamond on the front that have to repaint the whole front piece!
Help!
Randy
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I agree with the fishing line, but I would spray some sort of Instant Detailer rather than the Windex. I think it would provide more protection since it does contain a lubricant. Just my.02
 
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You might want to try using a blow dryer on the hottest setting you can get it on. This should help melt the adhesive between the emblem and the bumper. I recently removed my emblem and refinished it with black paint. Since I have a red 3000 with tinted windows, it looks pretty good. The fishing line and detailer is also a good idea.
 
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I did in fact use the blowdryer trick last night...it worked great! It still left a little of the old glue, but my wife had some spot remover stuff that specified "safe for removal of stickers on auto paint finishes..." and I used it and it worked great!
My car is red with tinted windows also...The side windows are done really nice, the back window had started going "purplish" on me. Do you know how to get old window tint off of our back windows with the electric defoggers and antenae?
Anyone?
Thanks!
Randy
 
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Discussion Starter #6
having owned and operated the largest window tinting company in Puerto Rico let me give you some advice on window tinting.. the reason your rear is "purple-ing up" is because it was a cheap, tinted film, and probably your side windows are the same, but they are not exposed to the sun at the same angle. they too, will purple up...unless you spend the right amount and buy LLumar Brands Premium line i forget their special name for it, not the titanium film, just ask for the next quality up from their standard LLumar...it can be in very light, almost invisible...or darker...non-reflective....keeps over 50% of the heat out, and never, theoretically, fades or turns purple....actually it helps you if ever you are in a crash because to keeps the shards of glass together so they don't scrath or hurt you...But....you need to spend the bucks...probably $200 or more for the sides and the back..The back and the door windows should be heat formed by the installer...a tedious process which prevents bubbling, and truly makes the best installation. The good film is also scratch resistant on the inside, guaranteed....so that protects the glass from mechanism scratches. Most states have legal darkness figures, usually 35 on the back, and 50 on the front, the higher the number, the lighter the film. I'll research the brand name of LLumar's premium brand...well worth it...In Puerto Rico, we used to also do the full front windshield with a 50 film, which protects the dash from cracking...but that is illegal in all states, and there was sometimes a halo-ing effect at night...but it sure did keep the car cool.
 
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just remembered the name of their premium film...Centaur.....i had it on one car for over five years in Puerto Rico, and it never even thought of turning purple..the #50 allows people to look in, and so does the #35...anything darker is vying for the witness protection program....which i used to do for the fbi #5, and the PR state police, #20...good luck
 
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