Rear end thunk now no acceleration. WTF

390 Views 25 Replies 10 Participants Last post by Dannyboy, Nov 14, 2001

Blue92

Discussion Starter · Nov 8, 2001

Last night I was at a stop light. I stuck it in first to get up and go, (not speeding or launching) and I hear this thunk come from the rear end. I thought someone had hit me at first, but when I went to pull over, i noticed that the RPMs would run high, but the car would barely accelerate. Well I pulled into a parking lot and I could still drive the car, but I didn't want to take it out of first. It sounds like I stripped something. I'm thought I had stripped the splines on my driveshaft, but it sounds like it's coming from the rear. What do you think it could be? I hope it's not the tranny.

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

My94r/t

· #2 · Nov 8, 2001

my tranny did something like that and it ended up being the differential. May check your rear dif. Just a thought.

Blue92

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 8, 2001

that could be it. How much did you pay to have it fixed? Did you do the work yourself, or did you have someone do it for you? If you did it yourself, what was the cost of parts? Thanks for the quick response.;

jon3k

· #4 · Nov 8, 2001

My guess would be rear differential. Definatly not good =(

.jon

Elmo

· #5 · Nov 8, 2001

Well, I have a rear diff if you need it. I'd sell it for $350, if you pay shipping.

I had a mechanic take it apart and check it out. He said it was good. It was a friend, so I don't have any receipts or anything.

(that would require me paying him.

)

If the Diff doesn't work when you install it, ship it back, and I'll refund your money.

This is for an AWD/AWS VR4. It has the AWS pump hole on top. Also, it is for a 5 speed.

Lemme know.

Good luck with your drivetrain... mine's been a pain....

Elton

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countach

· #6 · Nov 8, 2001

transfer case is back there also. I had to rebuild my Tcase at 50,000

My94r/t

· #7 · Nov 8, 2001

I have fwd so I needed to get a whole new tranny because the pieces shot through the housing. it cost me a total of 1400 for the new tran installed.

maTT

· #8 · Nov 9, 2001

Thats what happened to me the first time I blew my tranny. Rear output shaft went bad

John M

· #9 · Nov 9, 2001

Same here. When the output shaft messes up, the center diff slips. DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR LIKE THIS. You'll end up paying more money for a new tranny instead of whatever else it actually is - a bad tcase, driveshaft, or rear end.

Get it checked out and find the real cause. Don't make it worse than it is.

And this is coming from somebody who just shelled out $5200 for a new tranny, tcase, driveshaft, and labor.

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maTT

· #10 · Nov 9, 2001

Yeah, after mine went I drove it home and then tried to drive it to the shop. About 1/2 way there, the car would not go anymore. NO power was being tranferred to the ground. $5500 for tranny, transfer case, labor, clutch. That was back in 1996.

eyebrowski

· #11 · Nov 9, 2001

when i first read your post my money was on the differential, but then again im not to intellegent.
-Greg

whitetiger7654

· #12 · Nov 9, 2001

matt92vr4 said:
Thats what happened to me the first time I blew my tranny. Rear output shaft went bad

I think you should take matt's advice. Notice and stress the FIRST time his tranny blew. Matt what happened the other times?

maTT

· #13 · Nov 9, 2001

the second time was when my 2nd gear syncro went bad.

Blue92

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 9, 2001

Elmo said:
Well, I have a rear diff if you need it. I'd sell it for $350, if you pay shipping.

I had a mechanic take it apart and check it out. He said it was good. It was a friend, so I don't have any receipts or anything. (that would require me paying him. )

If the Diff doesn't work when you install it, ship it back, and I'll refund your money.

This is for an AWD/AWS VR4. It has the AWS pump hole on top. Also, it is for a 5 speed.

Lemme know.

Good luck with your drivetrain... mine's been a pain....

Elton

Thanks Elmo. I'll let you know when I find out. Oh BTW. how would I know if it is the rear diff? How do I check? Since I've got alot of time on my hands and another car to drive, I think I'd like to do it myself. Any suggestions? ... Ok.. well I just read the rest of the posts. I think i'll have it towed to Brian @ GTPro.

Or I could take everything apart and bring the parts to him.

Elmo

· #15 · Nov 9, 2001

Blue92 said:
Thanks Elmo. I'll let you know when I find out. Oh BTW. how would I know if it is the rear diff? How do I check? Since I've got alot of time on my hands and another car to drive, I think I'd like to do it myself. Any suggestions? ... Ok.. well I just read the rest of the posts. I think i'll have it towed to Brian @ GTPro.

Or I could take everything apart and bring the parts to him.

heheh.

this is not to bad actually... take your 2.5 ton Floor jack... (you do have one, right?) and lift the car from the rear differential (entry point from behind the car, as long as you don't have the car lowered, you don't have to prejack the car from one side, or roll the rear wheels up on 2x6's...) After jacking, put the car in first gear. This will prevent the car from rolling. additional jackstands under the side frame jacking points forawrd of the rear wheel wells for safety is not a bad idea either.

Once it's up, carefully remove the four bolt/nut combos off the rear of the driveshaft, and pop the end of the driveshaft off the rear diff pinion flange. Tie the shaft up and away from the area (use one of the forward rear carrier bolt mounts to tie it up) and Try rotating the flange by hand. With the Ebrake off (you did remember to take it off after you put the car in gear, right?

) there shouldn't be alot of resistance to turning it, probably about 5 lbs of force or less. Plus, there should be little to no play. Obviously, any crunching or grinding noises is BAD.

Then, have a friend rotate one wheel, while another friend holds one wheel It should be stiff for them to turn, but the rear Viscous coupler should allow the one wheel to turn the flange. Same for the other side. If only one wheel is rotated, and the other is not held, they should both move in the same direction, and the flange should turn rather quickly. (The benefits of a Limited Slip Diff, thanks to the Rear Viscous Coupler.

)

Start with that, and let us know what you find. If it all looks good from there back, we'll move forward and see what else we can discern.

Elton

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Blue92

Discussion Starter · #16 · Nov 9, 2001

Ok.. i'll try that. I probably won't be able to get to it till Monday or so. I have a business to run for now. Thanks Elmo.. I appreciate your help. You know.. this is the first time that this car has had problems and my first impulse wasn't to sell it. Hehe..

Blue92

Discussion Starter · #17 · Nov 13, 2001

countach said:
transfer case is back there also. I had to rebuild my Tcase at 50,000

I thought the transfer case was up front near the tranny.

Elmo

· #18 · Nov 14, 2001

Blue92 said:
I thought the transfer case was up front near the tranny.

It is.

I'm guessing Countach meant he had to rebuild his Rear Diff. That's typically what is done, unless a person is to lazy, or can get a used one fully assembled (much quicker)

Elton

KORMEX

· #19 · Nov 14, 2001

I smell some chicken !

Frank Martin

Elmo

· #20 · Nov 14, 2001

KORMEX said:
I smell some chicken !

Frank Martin

wheh!?!?!?

Frank... ya kinda confused me on this one....

Elton

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