Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
waking up the canadian forum a bit

95 rt/tt with 99 conversion.
No real goal, just want a quick car to enjoy for years to come. 120mph+ trap would be nice. stock longblock, simple build.

previous owners were a bit negligent; cracked/pealing paint, rust, missing bolts, silicone in place of gaskets, dented oil pan, stripped threads, wiring problems everywhere, leaks everywhere, parts from ebay instead of OEM etc. etc.

cleaned everything up, fixed most of the issues, did all the maintenance and started the build.

Power mods list: [PI denotes previously installed already]
Arashi TD04HL-20T with 9blade turbines, larger compressor housings
DR-ARC2 2.75" MAF
CXRacing dual core FMIC
CXRacing intake pipes
IMR downpipe kit
stock cat still in place
Straight pipe catback
evo 510cc yellow top injectors
supra fuel pump
XTD stg3 clutch + LW flywheel
[PI]Aftermarket radiator + slim fans
[PI]Setrab oil cooler
[PI]greddy BOV recirc
[PI]VMS plug wires
[PI]HKS EVC-S
hotwire pump+coils
ngk BKR coppers
630cc meth kit [not bought yet]
stock drivetrain - upgrade if things break

Non-Power stuff:
LCDBC <- best mod ever for these cars
prosport gauges - boost, oil psi/temp, water temp, WB AFR
maximal solid motor mounts
[PI]99 3kgt kit
[PI]BC Racing coilovers
[PI]enkei T6S wrapped in 275s

Deletes/Simplifications:
ABS, A/C, Cruise, vac lines/solenoids, evap, egr, clutch res, spoiler, spare, some heat shields and engine brackets
Z15A chassis so no AWS, Active exhaust, ECS

fuel will be pump 94+meth, note that our pump 94 is the same as 91 USA quality wise.

plan is to run it on stock fuel to check everything ok, fix leaks/problems etc. then put in the injectors/pump/ARC and turn it up.
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Edit: sorry about the pics not linking, click here for full album + full size pics:
Aug 2020
brought her home


did a bunch of upper end maintenance, deletes, wiring clean up


then pulled the pan to bang out the oil pan and check on bottom end condition

just opened the screen a bit then used a skinny allen wrench to pull the screen back to normal. found lots of bits of silicone and some random metals - sent oil for analysis came back ok.

then did some body work so I don't get embarrassed driving around testing stuff:

full thread here on the wrap: vinyl wrapped another one

restored the headlights


gauges install next (final picture coming later with LCDBC installed as well)

the oil filter sandwich adapter wasnt the best quality, had to re-tap the threads.

then bunch of parts arrived


so it's time to pull engine, do 60k + bunch of other stuff
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Edit: sorry about the pics not linking, click here for full album + full size pics:
April 2020
begin engine pull


push her outside and start the build


give her a wash


60k first, then turbos/precats. During the tear down did lots of fixes that I won't go into here, again negligence on previous owners.


cute pic


turbos fitted - check out fitment video here:


did gaskets, more clean ups/bolts/etc. and most of it buttoned back up as she sits now

still need to cut up the a/c bracket, do the delete, and put the intake side back together.
notice i removed the aluminum crank pulley and replaced with oem ;)

mean time I cleaned up the engine bay as well, A/c delete, ABS delete, motormounts, etc. etc.


left to do is install FMIC, reflare a brake line and put in the non-ABS stuff

updates will be coming weekly on sat or sun, I work on her once a week or so.
 

·
SDSU Alumnus
Joined
·
4,509 Posts
Dang... throwback to those 510's lol totally forgot about those! With only 94RON (91AKI), you might want to consider spraying a bit more - either single 1k or add a second in addition to that 630 nozzle.

Keep it up

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
  • Like
Reactions: rez604

·
One fix at a time
Joined
·
8,291 Posts
I'm not sure about those 510s but the evo 560s don't play nicely with piggybacks due to the latency injector differences. People always had idle issues and that was only solved by using them with a flashed ecu. Alan would have more experience with it. Maybe it won't be an issue for you.

I don't know which slim fans you're running but you can run another A/C fan, flipped upside down, and wired in. It'll barely clear the wategate with a little plastic trimming running a 2" aluminum radiator. I've only had good success with stock fans.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rez604

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alan,
I'll be playing the meth size by ear thought 630cc will be a good start, no set size, def taking any advice you give.

TSB,
the 510s are from older evos and have the correct latency and same spray pattern as stock which is why I selected them over the 560s.
I'm not sure what brand rad/fans I'm running I will check that out when I put the engine back in and check clearances, thanks for the tip.
 

·
One fix at a time
Joined
·
8,291 Posts
Was there any reason you didn’t check the main and rod bearings while you were in there fixing the oil pan and strainer? I forgot to mention it earlier. Not having as good of a history for the car I would have done that. I had to do it with mine. I had some copper showing on the mains that was both from previous owners running a billet aluminum crank pulley and also bearing on the car under knock sometimes I suspect. It went from about 11-12 psi hot idle to 20 after replacing the mains. Just some food for thought before pushing it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rez604

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
^That.

Don't you already have a build thread for this car?

510's are good little injectors, a touch on the small side, I'm actually running them at the moment. What are you doing for a fuel pressure regulator?
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TSB,
no excuse, I got lazy and only checked #1 rod out of curiosity. I know should've checked the mains but I wanted the car back on the road asap at that time.
I did however get a oil analysis done that came back very good - all metals at normal levels, and my hot oil pressure is ~20psi.
to be honest, I don't care if this engine goes it will give me an excuse to get another one and build it with some nice internals.

box,
where?? this is the build thread lol
nothing for regulator yet, had good luck in the past with hotwire supra+stock regulator and just piggyback. trying to keep build simple.
plan b. if idle issues = low/high voltage rewire.
plan c. upgrade whole fuel system pump to rail
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
box,
where?? this is the build thread lol
I swear I've seen a build thread for this car. It looks great anyway, especially after the paint (y)

I ran my Walbro 255 at high voltage full time and tuning was a pain in the ass with fuel trims all up the shit (stock FPR and fuel lines). Wiring the resistor back in made life soooo much easier (still on stock FPR and fuel lines).
 

·
Z16-Abuser
93 3000GT SL swapped to AWD and 3.8 MIVEC
Joined
·
1,291 Posts
I like this build. Simple and serious at the same time. I like that you're not doing everything at once. I think that kills too many builds. Kudos for doing maintenence first as well! Interested to see the progress.
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
a small update, I'm waiting for clutch kit to show up so I can put engine back in
decided on XTD stage 3 + their lightweight flywheel, feel like trying it out.

put in a "krant vent" of my own, 1/3psi cracking pressure, 150psi hold. left the pcv valve in for flow regulation, we'll see how it goes, hopefully it works during idle.




cut up the front bumper for the FMIC core, will probably have to cut some more once it's mounted.



cut the trans counter weight in anticipation to help with clearance of FMIC piping (also easy weight savings, was gonna cut it off anyways)



I cut my A/c bracket wrong first time being a dumbass, thankfully Rob saved my ass since he had a spare
first go on the left, correct cutting on the right. trying to save some weight.



A/C delete installed



and I felt like putting the heat shields back on the turbos. unfortunatly, my IMR precats do not have the bolt holes for them so I had to get creative. not the best looking but it'll work.



same thing with the rear one, some random brackets&braces to hold it, no pic. it will most likely get in the way of putting in the rear bolt for the rear mount so I might remove it when I go to put the engine back in.

Tested the wastegates make sure they crack same time (1bar springs).

anyways, as usual, keep it simple keep it easy. just waiting for clutch kit to show up now and coolant hoses.
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
a nice update, we're almost there.
some ants decided to make home in the car while it was sitting outside so I'm sure I'm going to be finding them + spiders randomly throughout the cars life.

test fitted the FMIC core



went to soak the fuel hanger nuts for later date and first thing I saw was this, uh oh



but then relief! it's not too bad, I've dealt with way worst



decided to remove the heatshields and mickey mouse heat wrap the precats & turbine housings, we'll see how it holds up. got some reflective tape I will be using on underside of my piping later too.




clutch came in, XTD stage 3 + their lightweight flywheel. I've had great experience with XTD before so I'm using them again, this time trying out their lightweight flywheel (14lbs).



installed



aaaaand engine back in, solid mounts all around (I'll probably swap the drivers for OEM later)




had my good friend and fellow vr4 owner swing by and lend me hand with the transmission install & engine install; could not have done this without him.
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry for the no updates, been dealing with some health issues that has been messing up my life in general. reckless younger days catching up to me.

and I found out CX FMIC kit is missing a cold side piece and instead has a duplicate hot side piece. trying to sort that out with them right now but because its one year later (dumbass me for buying the stuff way before being ready to put it on and not checking inventory). I doubt it will go through so in the mean time I have ordered some extra 90deg pipes, couplers and clamps that should hopefully arrive within a few weeks to have a mobile welder come and do some custom fab for me to get this kit to fit with the 20Ts. I'll put up a video once it's all put together to show modifications required.

with what little energy and time I had, installed the braided brake lines up front at least, p/s pump, and some wiring back on.
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
getting in what I can when I'm able to, health problems suck when you got things to do.

got the ABS delete and braided lines installed up front, still have the rear to do.
heat is your best friend here, nothing came off without it.
296074


relocated the aftermarket horn for the front mount core install, the core still touches the p/s cooler lines a bit will have to figure something out for that.
lots of empty space in there after ABS pump delete.

296075


setrab oil cooler in place - power is heat, larger oil cooler & larger radiator very helpful to keep headaches down.

296076


a shot of the interior with gauges. behind the steering wheel is @BlackStealth LCDBC large OLED display which is my favorite mod and in my opinion the best mod for these cars.
pillar is boost up top, WB afr below it. center goes oil pressure, water temp, oil temp.
I'll be looking for a replacement steering wheel, not too fond of that dodge logo.

296077


next the IMR downpipe that uses vband clamps on the precats which are also part of the kit.
my opinion after fighting with getting the vbands on this one is a normal downpipe like the 3sx setup is better. this one is not worth the extra money as you can get precat eliminators and still spend less even if you have to modify them a bit to fit.
this downpipe +precat kit does not come with EGR port, but it does have O2 ports for secondaries, and a port for wideband after the merger. too bad the wideband port cannot fit wideband as it hits the driveshaft when installed, so i had to mount mine up front. the rear secondary looks like in wrong location too as O2 will hit transfercase. The steel used and welding is very nice but overall a little disappointing for the price that is paid for this. oh yea and it blocks the top rear transfercase bolt that you have to get creative putting in, almost impossible to torque down.

296078


I'm sure you noticed the back end doesn't line up with my cat. found out the prev owner put in non-oem that is actually bottle necked. so I'm hoping a stock one will fit the correct length - I would like to keep a cat for fume smell purposes and muffling the sound level a bit. not worried about squeezing every last hp.

296079


prosport sandwich plate and sensors, which i commented on an earlier post. and k&n HP-1005.

296080


and now the amazing CX kit, just check out this fitment
granted my turbo outlet doesnt match stock location so some modifications will have to be made, including the rear one. as mentioned I will be calling in a mobile welder to do the work - bought some extra pipes and couplers in advance. this is just the worse part, the rest of it isn't great either even with stock mounting.

296081
296082


and how she sits now with bunch of stuff back together.
after seeing some pics & youtube vids of the core mounting, I redid mine to be much lower but then found it doesnt fit the 99 mouth so had to bring it back up again. some more minor cutting of the bumper will be required once the pipes are fit.

296083
 

·
Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
Joined
·
16,010 Posts
If I didn't comment on it before, I love the wrap work you do :)

I'm also watching the build. Nothing over the top, but also nothing missing.
Care to share the health issues?

Can't wait for it all to come together (as I'm sure you are!)...

Keep it going...

Bob.
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
cheers Bob.
my wrap work looks good from few feet away but once you get up close it's another story hahaha I mean I'm not a professional. long as it looks good in pictures.
I would prefer to keep the health stuff personal, hopefully it will be resolved in a few weeks.

Rez
 

·
BC3S
'95 RT/TT
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
only thing left is this POS cx racing kit for first start. already cranked it over for oil pressure and things look good so far.
I'm still looking for a mobile welder to come to my place and work with me. don't want to take the pipes to a place and then go back and forth with bad fitments.

296282
 

·
One fix at a time
Joined
·
8,291 Posts
You’re not the only one with the dual core fitment issues. I’ve seen plenty of people run into problems even with stock turbos. Their cold side 2.75” that comes up to the TB ends up curving too soon against where the intake bubble is at and prevents some from using the twin intakes I build without further modification. Their single core FMIC has much better pipe layout and overall fitment. I don’t know what happened to their dual core kits to be so bad. I wish I was closer because I could weld up any modifications you need to that piping.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top