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BC3S
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737 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
waking up the canadian forum a bit

95 rt/tt with 99 conversion.
No real goal, just want a quick car to enjoy for years to come. 120mph+ trap would be nice. stock longblock, simple build.

previous owners were a bit negligent; cracked/pealing paint, rust, missing bolts, silicone in place of gaskets, dented oil pan, stripped threads, wiring problems everywhere, leaks everywhere, parts from ebay instead of OEM etc. etc.

cleaned everything up, fixed most of the issues, did all the maintenance and started the build.

Power mods list: [PI denotes previously installed already]
Arashi TD04HL-20T with 9blade turbines, larger compressor housings
DR-ARC2 2.75" MAF
CXRacing dual core FMIC
CXRacing intake pipes
IMR downpipe kit
stock cat still in place
Straight pipe catback
evo 510cc yellow top injectors
supra fuel pump
[PI]Aftermarket radiator + slim fans
[PI]Setrab oil cooler
[PI]southbend clutch (?), stock flywheel
[PI]greddy BOV recirc
[PI]VMS plug wires
[PI]HKS EVC-S
hotwire pump+coils
ngk BKR coppers
630cc meth kit [not bought yet]
stock drivetrain - upgrade if things break

Non-Power stuff:
LCDBC <- best mod ever for these cars
prosport gauges - boost, oil psi/temp, water temp, WB AFR
maximal solid motor mounts
[PI]99 3kgt kit
[PI]BC Racing coilovers
[PI]enkei T6S wrapped in 275s

Deletes/Simplifications:
ABS, A/C, Cruise, vac lines/solenoids, evap, egr, clutch res, spoiler, spare, some heat shields and engine brackets
Z15A chassis so no AWS, Active exhaust, ECS

fuel will be pump 94+meth, note that our pump 94 is the same as 91 USA quality wise.

plan is to run it on stock fuel to check everything ok, fix leaks/problems etc. then put in the injectors/pump/ARC and turn it up.
 

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BC3S
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737 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Edit: sorry about the pics not linking, click here for full album + full size pics:
Aug 2020
brought her home


did a bunch of upper end maintenance, deletes, wiring clean up


then pulled the pan to bang out the oil pan and check on bottom end condition

just opened the screen a bit then used a skinny allen wrench to pull the screen back to normal. found lots of bits of silicone and some random metals - sent oil for analysis came back ok.

then did some body work so I don't get embarrassed driving around testing stuff:

full thread here on the wrap: vinyl wrapped another one

restored the headlights


gauges install next (final picture coming later with LCDBC installed as well)

the oil filter sandwich adapter wasnt the best quality, had to re-tap the threads.

then bunch of parts arrived


so it's time to pull engine, do 60k + bunch of other stuff
 

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BC3S
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737 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Edit: sorry about the pics not linking, click here for full album + full size pics:
April 2020
begin engine pull


push her outside and start the build


give her a wash


60k first, then turbos/precats. During the tear down did lots of fixes that I won't go into here, again negligence on previous owners.


cute pic


turbos fitted - check out fitment video here:


did gaskets, more clean ups/bolts/etc. and most of it buttoned back up as she sits now

still need to cut up the a/c bracket, do the delete, and put the intake side back together.
notice i removed the aluminum crank pulley and replaced with oem ;)

mean time I cleaned up the engine bay as well, A/c delete, ABS delete, motormounts, etc. etc.


left to do is install FMIC, reflare a brake line and put in the non-ABS stuff

updates will be coming weekly on sat or sun, I work on her once a week or so.
 

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SDSU Alumnus
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3,809 Posts
Dang... throwback to those 510's lol totally forgot about those! With only 94RON (91AKI), you might want to consider spraying a bit more - either single 1k or add a second in addition to that 630 nozzle.

Keep it up

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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One fix at a time
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8,031 Posts
I'm not sure about those 510s but the evo 560s don't play nicely with piggybacks due to the latency injector differences. People always had idle issues and that was only solved by using them with a flashed ecu. Alan would have more experience with it. Maybe it won't be an issue for you.

I don't know which slim fans you're running but you can run another A/C fan, flipped upside down, and wired in. It'll barely clear the wategate with a little plastic trimming running a 2" aluminum radiator. I've only had good success with stock fans.
 

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BC3S
Joined
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737 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alan,
I'll be playing the meth size by ear thought 630cc will be a good start, no set size, def taking any advice you give.

TSB,
the 510s are from older evos and have the correct latency and same spray pattern as stock which is why I selected them over the 560s.
I'm not sure what brand rad/fans I'm running I will check that out when I put the engine back in and check clearances, thanks for the tip.
 

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One fix at a time
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8,031 Posts
Was there any reason you didn’t check the main and rod bearings while you were in there fixing the oil pan and strainer? I forgot to mention it earlier. Not having as good of a history for the car I would have done that. I had to do it with mine. I had some copper showing on the mains that was both from previous owners running a billet aluminum crank pulley and also bearing on the car under knock sometimes I suspect. It went from about 11-12 psi hot idle to 20 after replacing the mains. Just some food for thought before pushing it.
 

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Registered
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293 Posts
^That.

Don't you already have a build thread for this car?

510's are good little injectors, a touch on the small side, I'm actually running them at the moment. What are you doing for a fuel pressure regulator?
 

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BC3S
Joined
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737 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TSB,
no excuse, I got lazy and only checked #1 rod out of curiosity. I know should've checked the mains but I wanted the car back on the road asap at that time.
I did however get a oil analysis done that came back very good - all metals at normal levels, and my hot oil pressure is ~20psi.
to be honest, I don't care if this engine goes it will give me an excuse to get another one and build it with some nice internals.

box,
where?? this is the build thread lol
nothing for regulator yet, had good luck in the past with hotwire supra+stock regulator and just piggyback. trying to keep build simple.
plan b. if idle issues = low/high voltage rewire.
plan c. upgrade whole fuel system pump to rail
 

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293 Posts
box,
where?? this is the build thread lol
I swear I've seen a build thread for this car. It looks great anyway, especially after the paint (y)

I ran my Walbro 255 at high voltage full time and tuning was a pain in the ass with fuel trims all up the shit (stock FPR and fuel lines). Wiring the resistor back in made life soooo much easier (still on stock FPR and fuel lines).
 

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86 Posts
Props on the vid about the arashis. I hear bits and pieces about what needs to be done to make them fit but that covered everything pretty well.
 

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Z16-Abuser
93 3000GT SL swapped to AWD and 3.8 MIVEC
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1,257 Posts
I like this build. Simple and serious at the same time. I like that you're not doing everything at once. I think that kills too many builds. Kudos for doing maintenence first as well! Interested to see the progress.
 

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BC3S
Joined
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737 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
a small update, I'm waiting for clutch kit to show up so I can put engine back in
decided on XTD stage 3 + their lightweight flywheel, feel like trying it out.

put in a "krant vent" of my own, 1/3psi cracking pressure, 150psi hold. left the pcv valve in for flow regulation, we'll see how it goes, hopefully it works during idle.




cut up the front bumper for the FMIC core, will probably have to cut some more once it's mounted.



cut the trans counter weight in anticipation to help with clearance of FMIC piping (also easy weight savings, was gonna cut it off anyways)



I cut my A/c bracket wrong first time being a dumbass, thankfully Rob saved my ass since he had a spare
first go on the left, correct cutting on the right. trying to save some weight.



A/C delete installed



and I felt like putting the heat shields back on the turbos. unfortunatly, my IMR precats do not have the bolt holes for them so I had to get creative. not the best looking but it'll work.



same thing with the rear one, some random brackets&braces to hold it, no pic. it will most likely get in the way of putting in the rear bolt for the rear mount so I might remove it when I go to put the engine back in.

Tested the wastegates make sure they crack same time (1bar springs).

anyways, as usual, keep it simple keep it easy. just waiting for clutch kit to show up now and coolant hoses.
 
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