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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,121 Posts
ForcedFour shiftbox. I'm just using one of the simple ones. No TCU needed.

I don't think a BC280 on a 3.0 is very much cam. The ones I had were around 216* at .050" of lift. Yes it kills the low end, but who cares. If you are using the loud pedal you are above 4k anyway. Also, for reference....280/288 kelfords on my 2.0 are 238/242*.

Ideally, you combine them with a good short runner, big plenum intake manifold to really maximize the top end. And with an auto, you are always in your powerband if you select the combo (cam, intake, turbos, converter, tire size) and shift points correctly.


edit: yeah, I think I had the BC springs and retainers. It's been awhile. 280's are probably best suited for a td05 setup. Maybe a little big for td04 and I'd go even bigger cam for something in the 900awhp range.

and the main issue with any aftermarket cam on a 6g is no one (including the big name shops) were degreeing them to take into account head/block resurfacing, tolerances stacking on cam grind and aftermarket gears, etc. After degreeing a set of DR street cams properly, I picked up a ton of spool. So when I went 280's, I of course degreed before installing the engine. I had the original BC280 without issues and BC was kind enough to swap them out for the new version later. Still no issues. Was 420ish awhp with a manual. And later pushed the setup for a bit on the street with the auto in the 500+awhp range with 14bs.
 

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Z16-Abuser
Joined
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1,227 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
ForcedFour shiftbox. I'm just using one of the simple ones. No TCU needed.

I don't think a BC280 on a 3.0 is very much cam. The ones I had were around 216* at .050" of lift. Yes it kills the low end, but who cares. If you are using the loud pedal you are above 4k anyway. Also, for reference....280/288 kelfords on my 2.0 are 238/242*.

Ideally, you combine them with a good short runner, big plenum intake manifold to really maximize the top end. And with an auto, you are always in your powerband if you select the combo (cam, intake, turbos, converter, tire size) and shift points correctly.


edit: yeah, I think I had the BC springs and retainers. It's been awhile. 280's are probably best suited for a td05 setup. Maybe a little big for td04 and I'd go even bigger cam for something in the 900awhp range.

and the main issue with any aftermarket cam on a 6g is no one (including the big name shops) were degreeing them to take into account head/block resurfacing, tolerances stacking on cam grind and aftermarket gears, etc. After degreeing a set of DR street cams properly, I picked up a ton of spool. So when I went 280's, I of course degreed before installing the engine. I had the original BC280 without issues and BC was kind enough to swap them out for the new version later. Still no issues. Was 420ish awhp with a manual. And later pushed the setup for a bit on the street with the auto in the 500+awhp range with 14bs.
Ton of info here and i appreciate it. does anyone even make a larger cam than 280 for our 6gs? i haven't heard of any but i did take a long time away from the 3/s world. that is an insane difference in duration on your kelfords vs that bc280. i wonder why we don't have more radical cams.

And yeah, im real big in the degreeing of our cams since i first heard of it back when no one knew they were asymmetrical grinds. i think a set of cam gears and a degree wheel mite help a lot of even bpu guys especially with how old these motors are and the number of times heads may have been decked.
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,121 Posts
Nothing bigger off the shelf anymore. Would have to go custom. With 9bs or 13gs you don't need anything that big anyway. Grab some street grinds or web regrinds pop up for sale sometimes.

For the little tdo4s....e85, an auto and extra timing up top should be fun in your lightweight car. I'd also consider some nitrous. I've only used it at the track to get on the converter and to spool from a roll, but I love it. Plan to use it more this year:D You can find a used setup cheap too!
 

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Dragon Slayer
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873 Posts
I bought my wet nitrous system for $240 from a local guy. Best $240 I ever spent lol. It even came with a full nitrous bottle.
 

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Registered
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398 Posts
Auto fanboy here, I second eric's statements. an auto with a shiftbox is a lot of fun to drive. throw in a few after market parts(translab shiftkit, and alto end clutch namely) and you'll have a pretty strong transmission that'll have no problem getting power to the ground, granted you will lose some power compared to a manual. they are quite cheap too. I just finished up swapping a new atx with a shiftkit and shiftbox(also got a aux cooler and alto end clutch on the way) into my car and it's only cost me ~$500 to get all the parts and tools I needed.

I enjoy driving a "built" auto a lot more than manual, to be honest. Even if you stay manual, I would find a car with a good auto that you can take for spin. It's an interesting experience, to say the least
 

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Z16-Abuser
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1,227 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Tha rough cut motor plate......1/8 inch steel using a step bit to drill out holes and plasma cutter for outside frame......not entirely pretty but perfect for this car......
 

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1G Foglights b!tches
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8,121 Posts
Why engine plate and the spacing that comes with it?
 

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Z16-Abuser
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1,227 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
Why engine plate and the spacing that comes with it?
i have to admit that's been a consideration since day one. I researched what other motor plate thicknesses were and measured and debated whether it could be a problem with awd. including the intermediate axle shaft and everything. tha biggest reason was because I wanted too. other reasons follow

-this car is a huge experiment
-increase in engine bay clearances
-potential weight savings
-stock inspection plate is already ~1/16 inch
-big blocks use .090 steel and .125 aluminum and those engines weigh more and put out more power
-we have people putting out ~1000hp on stock intermediate shafts and no breakage. the extra 1/16 inch removed from front diff shouldn't hurt me.
-I love these cars but I hate my hands being crammed into little spaces. if I can change that I will.
-because neato redneck racecar
-wwjd
 

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Belt-fed junkie
Joined
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705 Posts
More reasons of "because"

-1/8" hard board template
-protractor and scale
-Auto-CAD and "D-size" paper template to check
-CNC wood router for plasma cutting template
-Single punch machine
-titties
 

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Z16-Abuser
Joined
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1,227 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
More reasons of "because"

-1/8" hard board template
-protractor and scale
-Auto-CAD and "D-size" paper template to check
-CNC wood router for plasma cutting template
-Single punch machine
-titties
hahahahahaha back from the dead. I needed to weld a spacer on the frame rail for the front mount. ill post pictures in a minute. if we put one on yours I don't know if youd be queasy about welding onto your "mint" car. its nothing major. ill show you next time you come over.
 
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