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1992 3000GT VR4
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Double check the timing as well before removal of old belt look make sure all of your timing marks are lined up... if not 1 tooth off on either cam gear can bend some valves slightly found 2 of mine that got bent from a shop in the mid 2000s... (year)... did water pump job poorly
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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By "set your timing top dead center" you mean makings sure all four cam timing marks match the mark on the engine right?
You'll need to have the harmonic balancer off too to ensure all timing marks are correct. You want to have the crank gear lined up on its indicator, and the cam gear indicators lined up on the heads as well. The factory service manual has all this information in it. You can download copies from 3sx.com and ninjaperformance.com

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1992 3000GT VR4
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By "set your timing top dead center" you mean makings sure all four cam timing marks match the mark on the engine right?
Yes.... there are marks on the front of heads behind cam gears and on the top lip of valve behind cam gears as well for in car replacement purposes the crank is self explanatory... roll pin to mark on front cover of block... helps to set crank back 1 tooth going back with new belt...
 

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Between work and coming home working on car took my time with it ....ruffy bout 30days to go thru my engine with heads pulled and sent to machine shop just take your time soak up and look for as much info on it before taking on this work....
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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the crank is self explanatory... roll pin to mark on front cover of block... helps to set crank back 1 tooth going back with new belt...
@Chang oil, just FYI the tooth that aligns with roll pin is only used with 91 & 92 engines, his being a 95 uses a different tooth to align crank to mark on oil pump cover. All starting with 93 used that tooth and the crank cog gear was different than the 91 & 92 engines.
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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Throw a bunch of cardboard under, then go nuts with the brake clean and brush and such. Get it all as clean as possible. So much easier to find leaks when clean
This is a very good point.

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Looks to be many leaks gonna have to track them all down and check them... sending unit for oil filter / oil fill cap gasket / camshaft seals / front main maybe water pump timing belt job
Sir: When addressing leaks, I always pressure wash the engine first. Next, check engine oil then start your sturdily blocked vehicle and let it run for twenty minutes. Your leaking location should then be visible. You'll go crazy chasing leaks. If they are simultaneous leaks, I would ldentify your PVC valve, or the regulatory equivalent as obstructions to the engine's breathing and clean or replace it. Did you "start" with a clean engine? If so, how many miles to get dirty?, Best... Why
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Timing belt, a "dead car" on the highway has little value. You can budget time for the bushings....
Thank you sir! I just bought a press washer this Tuesday a little worried if this strong water will make anything short...but I saw a lot videos wash the engine bay...
And by the way, I saw some video about timing belt, I am comfortable with most of the parts, but some videos said "turn the crankshaft back a tooth anti-clockwise " before put the belt on, I am a little confused about this step, why they do this? will this mess the timing? Do you have any suggested videos to follow? Thanks!
 

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Thank you sir! I just bought a press washer this Tuesday a little worried if this strong water will make anything short...but I saw a lot videos wash the engine bay...
And by the way, I saw some video about timing belt, I am comfortable with most of the parts, but some videos said "turn the crankshaft back a tooth anti-clockwise " before put the belt on, I am a little confused about this step, why they do this? will this mess the timing? Do you have any suggested videos to follow? Thanks!
Sir, when I changed the timing belt on a 91 3000GT, I had, it was not difficult. Pay attention, watch the timing marks and pulleys. When the cams are aligned with their respective timing marks, the engine is balanced, like a loaded mouse trap. Slip the belt on being careful of the cam gears which can spin. Once on, turn the engine a revolution by hand and confirm the timing marks, for both cams, still line up. Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Sir, when I changed the timing belt on a 91 3000GT, I had, it was not difficult. Pay attention, watch the timing marks and pulleys. When the cams are aligned with their respective timing marks, the engine is balanced, like a loaded mouse trap. Slip the belt on being careful of the cam gears which can spin. Once on, turn the engine a revolution by hand and confirm the timing marks, for both cams, still line up. Done.
I am so sorry, you mean you also did this "turn the crankshaft back a tooth anti-clockwise " before put back the belt, right?
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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I am so sorry, you mean you also did this "turn the crankshaft back a tooth anti-clockwise " before put back the belt, right?
That’s recommended way of doing it, but I’ve found that many times this throws crank off by that exact amount. Reason it is the recommended way to install belt is in clockwise direction ending at tensioner idler pulley, which normally does not allow for all the slack to removed from between back bank cams and crank pulley (normal drive tension side). Then when tensioner is tightened it moves cams backwards about half a tooth (if no cam locks are installed), then when crank is turned clockwise (normal direction) back to it’s mark the cam gears are moved CW also (half tooth) back to they’re marks. And then after the 2 crank revolutions CW for recheck all should be on marks and if grenade pin is still lose in tensioner hole, it can be removed and your done.

However, if cam lockers are used during belt installation in clockwise direction, you’ll always be off by that one tooth at crank, because cams couldn’t backup half a tooth when tensioner was set. That’s always been a misinterpretation because the manual process doesn’t suggest using the cam lockers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
That’s recommended way of doing it, but I’ve found that many times this throws crank off by that exact amount. Reason it is the recommended way to install belt is in clockwise direction ending at tensioner idler pulley, which normally does not allow for all the slack to removed from between back bank cams and crank pulley (normal drive tension side). Then when tensioner is tightened it moves cams backwards about half a tooth (if no cam locks are installed), then when crank is turned clockwise (normal direction) back to it’s mark the cam gears are moved CW also (half tooth) back to they’re marks. And then after the 2 crank revolutions CW for recheck all should be on marks and if grenade pin is still lose in tensioner hole, it can be removed and your done.

However, if cam lockers are used during belt installation in clockwise direction, you’ll always be off by that one tooth at crank, because cams couldn’t backup half a tooth when tensioner was set. That’s always been a misinterpretation because the manual process doesn’t suggest using the cam lockers.
Thanks for your detailed reply. I think I will use a cam locker, I already bought one pair, so you mean if using a cam locker, then we should NOT turn back the crankshaft for one tooth, is my understanding right? And by the way, do you suggest using a locker or not?
 

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Thanks for your detailed reply. I think I will use a cam locker, I already bought one pair, so you mean if using a cam locker, then we should NOT turn back the crankshaft for one tooth, is my understanding right? And by the way, do you suggest using a locker or not?
Using cam locker is most convenient way because especially front bank cams are spring loaded from valve spring tension and will not stay on mark, back bank cams not quite as bad. If you use cam lockers and crank retarded one tooth, after belt is installed in clockwise direction, try to gently turn crank CW direction back to its mark removing all belt slack from backside (between back most cam gear and crank) then set tension on tensioner and remove cam lockers. If you can’t gently rotate crank CW back to its mark, then all slack is already removed from back side and if you don’t correct that then, you’ll will end up with crank off by one tooth retarded when done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Using cam locker is most convenient way because especially front bank cams are spring loaded from valve spring tension and will not stay on mark, back bank cams not quite as bad. If you use cam lockers and crank retarded one tooth, after belt is installed in clockwise direction, try to gently turn crank CW direction back to its mark removing all belt slack from backside (between back most cam gear and crank) then set tension on tensioner and remove cam lockers. If you can’t gently rotate crank CW back to its mark, then all slack is already removed from back side and if you don’t correct that then, you’ll will end up with crank off by one tooth retarded when done.
I very much appreciate your explanation, much more clear!!!
So is it means, after this is all set, all the gears mark should exactly line up with timing marks on the engine, which includes the crankshaft mark, if we turn it back one tooth before this then we need to correct it to line up with the timing mark finally, right? (this makes me scared...)
 

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I very much appreciate your explanation, much more clear!!!
So is it means, after this is all set, all the gears mark should exactly line up with timing marks on the engine, which includes the crankshaft mark, if we turn it back one tooth before this then we need to correct it to line up with the timing mark finally, right? (this makes me scared...)
That’s exactly right. Nothing to be scared about, basically with crank and cam gears on all on their marks and no slack in belt between back most cam gear and crank cog gear, when tension is set all will end up correct. The two CW revolutions of crank back to its mark is to allow belt to find its normal path around all components and to double check tensioner is still set correct for grenade pin to easily move in hole. If it has tightened in hole, then tensioner needs to be redone to point it moves freely. Then do two more crank CW rotations back to its mark and if cams are on their mark and grenade pin moves freely in hole, all is well and grenade pin can then be permanently removed.

Its all about crank being TDC of #1 cylinder (crank mark) and cams then being on their marks at same time. If you didn’t already know, the two revolutions of crank to the mark is because crank turns two revolutions to one at cams.
 
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