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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I took a good look at my 95 SL, I found there is leaking from somewhere top to the engine oil pan. the whole A/C compressor is covered by oil and the whole engine oil pan is covered by oil, it's very wet but not dripping. Also, get some oil marks on the Cam case and around the engine oil cap, so where does this leaking possibly come from?

The top part of the engine bay is fairly clean, with no signs about valve cover gasket leaking or rear cam seal leaking.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks to be many leaks gonna have to track them all down and check them... sending unit for oil filter / oil fill cap gasket / camshaft seals / front main maybe water pump timing belt job
The rubber on the oil cap can get hard and brittle and leak or the metal clip can bend and cause it to not sea as tightly. Most likely your cause for the leak.
Thanks, I think I need to make a choice about what should do first between a timing belt and front suspension (steering rack and control arm bushing), if you were me what will you do firstly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would pull the 2 timing belt covers off and get a good look at cam shaft seals and if ya can pull harmonic balancer off getting a good look at all the seals preferably putting your timing top dead center before pulling your timing belt off... if you decide to do the work needed ... if it was mine would go ahead and nip it all in the butt... valve cover gaskets cam caps and seals taking off oil filter housing new gasket going back with new everything timing belt kit... water pump idler / tensioner O rings front and back for pipe that runs thru valley of the block to coolant fill cap side (thermostat housing)....
Sounds like you would choose a timing belt firstly, I am thinking the same thing, particularly I don't really need to drive this car currently, I buy this as a project car, have some other cars for daily drive. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
View attachment 298317
Might be hard getting a hold of the rear part of water pump seen a good amount of water pump kits that just come with the front only... the flush mount screws have a tendency of being over torqued and destroys the threads in rear impeller housing just FYi
If I just buy an OEM water pump would it come with the back part?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you have time to let her sit, I'd ensure tge timing stuff gets done as close to driving as possible. You'd hate to do the timing, let her sit, and have to redo the timing in a few thousand miles cuz it sat for a few years. Not that I'd know anything about that.

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Thanks, I think I will drive it casually. would sit it for two months after the timing belt change sounds ok? (I need that time to do the front suspension )
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Gaskets for everything. Water pump, oil pump, cam seals, etc. Basically, every gasket would get replaced when rebuilding the engine. I think.

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It sounds a little scary to me...I will do timing belt, pulleys, water pump, oil pump, cam seals, sump firstly. I am always confused about cam seal replacment, if you take off the Cam gear, how you know if you messed the timing or not when put it back? is it possible to mess the timing during removal or install the cam seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
As long as you set your timing top dead center first before you even think bout pulling timing belt off ..... but for the cam gears there are roll pins to line up just like your crank gears.... just dont mix up your cam gears regardless... keep everything organized....always organized !!
By "set your timing top dead center" you mean makings sure all four cam timing marks match the mark on the engine right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Timing belt, a "dead car" on the highway has little value. You can budget time for the bushings....
Thank you sir! I just bought a press washer this Tuesday a little worried if this strong water will make anything short...but I saw a lot videos wash the engine bay...
And by the way, I saw some video about timing belt, I am comfortable with most of the parts, but some videos said "turn the crankshaft back a tooth anti-clockwise " before put the belt on, I am a little confused about this step, why they do this? will this mess the timing? Do you have any suggested videos to follow? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Sir, when I changed the timing belt on a 91 3000GT, I had, it was not difficult. Pay attention, watch the timing marks and pulleys. When the cams are aligned with their respective timing marks, the engine is balanced, like a loaded mouse trap. Slip the belt on being careful of the cam gears which can spin. Once on, turn the engine a revolution by hand and confirm the timing marks, for both cams, still line up. Done.
I am so sorry, you mean you also did this "turn the crankshaft back a tooth anti-clockwise " before put back the belt, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
That’s recommended way of doing it, but I’ve found that many times this throws crank off by that exact amount. Reason it is the recommended way to install belt is in clockwise direction ending at tensioner idler pulley, which normally does not allow for all the slack to removed from between back bank cams and crank pulley (normal drive tension side). Then when tensioner is tightened it moves cams backwards about half a tooth (if no cam locks are installed), then when crank is turned clockwise (normal direction) back to it’s mark the cam gears are moved CW also (half tooth) back to they’re marks. And then after the 2 crank revolutions CW for recheck all should be on marks and if grenade pin is still lose in tensioner hole, it can be removed and your done.

However, if cam lockers are used during belt installation in clockwise direction, you’ll always be off by that one tooth at crank, because cams couldn’t backup half a tooth when tensioner was set. That’s always been a misinterpretation because the manual process doesn’t suggest using the cam lockers.
Thanks for your detailed reply. I think I will use a cam locker, I already bought one pair, so you mean if using a cam locker, then we should NOT turn back the crankshaft for one tooth, is my understanding right? And by the way, do you suggest using a locker or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Using cam locker is most convenient way because especially front bank cams are spring loaded from valve spring tension and will not stay on mark, back bank cams not quite as bad. If you use cam lockers and crank retarded one tooth, after belt is installed in clockwise direction, try to gently turn crank CW direction back to its mark removing all belt slack from backside (between back most cam gear and crank) then set tension on tensioner and remove cam lockers. If you can’t gently rotate crank CW back to its mark, then all slack is already removed from back side and if you don’t correct that then, you’ll will end up with crank off by one tooth retarded when done.
I very much appreciate your explanation, much more clear!!!
So is it means, after this is all set, all the gears mark should exactly line up with timing marks on the engine, which includes the crankshaft mark, if we turn it back one tooth before this then we need to correct it to line up with the timing mark finally, right? (this makes me scared...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Make sure you just dont slap timing belt on depending on what belt you decide to go with I usually try to have the words or other stated lettering or arrow direction turning clock wise dont know if this was covered in previous conversations prior... figured I would post this
Thanks, my part is on shipping, I probably start to do the timing belt in the middle of this month. lets see what I got at that time.
 
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