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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have already started this attempt at painting a valve cover. I used chap stick on all lettering. The first time I made the mistake of doing it while it was too warm from being outside. At least the first primer coating. I cleared the lettering and sanded and shot a second coat of primer. From the second coat on, I know to keep it in the cool basement. While cool, then do the chapstick on the lettering. I cleared the letters and let it sit for almost a week till this weekend.
This weekend I sanded the second coat of primer and put two coats of black on in two days. I did sand after the first coat.
Now I am wondering if that should be enough since they were thick coats of paint.
So at this point I am wondering if I should shoot clear coat over it and the lettering.

Any insight would help as I am just now getting ready to sand the lettering.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The letters are all cleaned up now and ready for a full clear coat.
Can anyone tell me if I should or not?
I don't know if it will hold or look good on the lettering, but am concerned with protecting the edges of paint around the lettering.
 

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Nice work!

You will need high temperature clear coat if you do decide to add that. Normal clear coat will almost certainly go yellow because of the temps under hood. AFAIK Mitsubishi didn't clear coat them originally.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you sir.
All of the primer, paint, and clear coat I have been using is VHT high engine temp paint in the cans.
It should still look good I hope.
 

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Sorry to burst your bubble, but my OCD ass would have made sure all the old oil was off.
You can see bubbles around some of the lettering..

Aircraft stripper and a lot of paint thinner. Maybe some fine grit paper..

You have been CONSTANTLY searching for answers, so I am trying to be honest...

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry to burst your bubble, but my OCD ass would have made sure all the old oil was off.
You can see bubbles around some of the lettering..

Aircraft stripper and a lot of paint thinner. Maybe some fine grit paper..

You have been CONSTANTLY searching for answers, so I am trying to be honest...

Bob.
I think you may be talking about the grit from sanding the letters smooth before I blew it all clear. I will post a pic tonight on it after it was cleaned off and see if you still think it's that bad.
 

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I wouldn't trust the clear to stick to the lettering for very long, but it can just be sanded off anyways. Clear coat should keep the finish better, for longer, as scratches show up much more on base coats
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I see what you guys are saying now. I think I am just gonna do two clear coats and then clean the lettering off.

I do want to clarify that this pic has more than can be seen by the naked eye. Though some of what is mentioned around super close to the lettering I can see when looking closely, other parts I think are just flash reflections from some slight imperfections in the texture. That is when you zoom in.

Another learning experience and a thread to come back to when I do the next one that has much nicer lettering. Of the 4 valve covers, this was the only one that had jacked up lettering. They were super chewed up and the edge of the diamond is almost chopped off.
 

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