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Awesome update and love the all black look in the bay. It looks super slick. I actually just found your Facebook a few days ago and was browsing through it. I also just saw you hit sub 700 on VD.....Dayum!
 

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1994 Mit 3000gt VR4 6spd
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Alan you're rolling mannnnn, congrats!
 
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Discussion Starter #243
Awesome update and love the all black look in the bay. It looks super slick. I actually just found your Facebook a few days ago and was browsing through it. I also just saw you hit sub 700 on VD.....Dayum!
Thanks Richie! Yeah haha Andy's is coming along well with his FP Green turbos. The next major changes will likely happen over winter, as usual, when things cool/slow down for him.

Alan you're rolling mannnnn, congrats!
Thanks James! Gotta keep it fun and enjoyable!

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Excitable at high speeds
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Can you describe/detail your cooling setup? My FMIC + TD05 setup has had overheating issues forever. Recently discovered that those issues are exacerbated at highway speed which tells me I have an aerodynamic problem for airflow through the radiator at speed. Curious how you solved it since it looks like you have 1 fan and perhaps an oil cooler behind the radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #245 (Edited)
Can you describe/detail your cooling setup? My FMIC + TD05 setup has had overheating issues forever. Recently discovered that those issues are exacerbated at highway speed which tells me I have an aerodynamic problem for airflow through the radiator at speed. Curious how you solved it since it looks like you have 1 fan and perhaps an oil cooler behind the radiator?
Certainly and gladly! I have a TON of data from over the years including the current and previous summers :) 👍 I utilize two probes, for reference. PLX is in the radiator and OEM is in the water neck.

This month, the hottest outing was 86°F where coolant was no higher than 185°F (average of 180°F); on a recently "cooler" day in the 70's, temps averaged 176°F with a peak of 181°F
Last summer, the hottest outing was 93°F where coolant was no higher than 185°F (average of 180°F) again
Last summer, I also made a 42-mile trip in 82°F ambient without issue. There were some segments of stop-and-go traffic too. My ass suffered, but the car was fine LOL.

The setup is not all too complicated, IMO.

Manifolds, o2 housings, and front pipe are all cerakote-coated 2000°F. Turbos have a heatshield made out of sheet metal, as shown in this thread+videos.

Koyo half-core race radiator has a stock DS/AC fan (high speed), and the adjacent PitRoadM/GReddy FMOC has an 8" pusher fan; both are manually switched on. ETS 3.5" FMIC sits in front of these with minimal trimming to fascia (positioned far back against frame). The thermostat itself is factory temperature. Radiator cap is a GReddy 1.3bar.

For fluid, I use 90-95% distilled water, Redline Water Wetter, a splash of antifreeze, and thoroughly burp the system. Overflow is an aftermarket sealed tank/reservoir. Oil is Mobil1 15W-50 contained in the IPS racing oil pan (extended capacity)

Miscellaneous stuff includes the GT300 vented FG hood which is now spaced in the rear (did not want to trim/cut the skeletal structure to clear PRM FSB). I used sheet metal for undertrays beneath the chassis/engine in lieu of factory plastic. Rear hood seal/strip above firewall has been removed for years.

No A/C condenser and no PS cooling lines, obviously. Heater core is not connected, and the turbos are oil-cooled only (no water lines). Lastly, no additional shrouding has been added up front yet, although I am prepared to do that whenever needed.

Hopefully this helps!
-Alan
 
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Alan,

You are the expert, but this picture worries me...

289205


The wiring coming from the COP connectors does not seem very thick (it's actually the insulation that bothers me...)

Please tell me it's high temp insulation or that you are going to "wrap" the wires with some some of high temp sleeving....

Coming from a world of controllers and wiring in high temp conditions, looking at those wires, that close to the engine, screams melting insulation and shorts...

I love it otherwise....

Bob. :)
 
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Discussion Starter #247
Hi Bob and thanks for the concern.

Chris can chime in, but he uses pretty high grade "Mil-Spec" wires (I cannot find the exact ones, atm). He and others use sleeves, but I just opt for "high temp" loom lol. The hood vents are right above it, and I monitor my underhood air temps for heatsoak conditions and such. The thought did occur to me, but I would be more concerned if they were routed by turbo hotside parts instead. I am keeping an eye on them though since I routinely ID my plugs for assessment.

Cheers!
-Alan
 

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Alan :)

You help SO many, I felt compelled to at least voice some concern.
I've been around for 20 years and watched the platform grow, and then level off, but some of you guys have decided to try to breath some life back into it.
I love what "you" guys are doing.

What's more important, is that "you" guys are doing it in some of the weirdest times I have ever seen in my life....

Sorry for my weird rant....a combination of "cabin fever" and "mask overload"...

Bob. :)
 
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SDSU Alumnus
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Discussion Starter #249
Weirdest times indeed, my friend! What is even normal anymore... but yeah, lots of plans pushed way, way back with other 3S owners and friends - both older and younger. It gets tricky trying to keep the motivation and fire going! We keep each other sane with this insane hobby and passion lol 😆 kind of ironic, huh?

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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I haven't verified what wiring Chris is using on the COP kit. I'll have to rip my kit open and see if there's any labeling on the wires. As Alan mention, I'm pretty sure it's Tefzel. I'm using M22759/16 wiring, on some of my injector harnesses. According to specs, it uses extruded ETFE insulation and it's operating temp is 150*C (302* F). So hopefully, temps aren't that hot in that area. I was just planning on using DEI wire loom, for those wires. However, if I run into any issues, I was looking into this product:

 

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Discussion Starter #252
I agree and also believe that it is Tefzel or maybe TXL...?

Hey Alan, quick question, is your front turbo "j-pipe" custom or is that a CX racing one? Thanks dude!
Both COP/J-Pipes are actually from ETS before their jigs were lost =X Each came with another pipe segment that connect to the otherwise same TD04 kit. Hopefully this helps!
 
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Alan,

You are the expert, but this picture worries me...

View attachment 289205

The wiring coming from the COP connectors does not seem very thick (it's actually the insulation that bothers me...)

Please tell me it's high temp insulation or that you are going to "wrap" the wires with some some of high temp sleeving....

Coming from a world of controllers and wiring in high temp conditions, looking at those wires, that close to the engine, screams melting insulation and shorts...

I love it otherwise....

Bob. :)
Yes its mil spec tefzel:

Specific designation of MIL-Spec wire commonly used in motorsport

Conductor Tinned Copper

Temperature Rating 150°C

Insulation Fluoropolymer Cross-linked Modified ETFE Single Insulation

Insulation Thickness .005" Minimum

Insulation Resistance 5,000 megohms for 1000ft Minimum

Voltage Rating 600 Volts

Impusle Dielectric Test 100% test, 8.0 kV Peak

Its far superior to the oem wiring, you will not be melting it unless you run it on top of the exhaust manifold. Most of the loom I have seen melts with a heat gun but this wire will not. I have run it bare near the valve cover there a long time.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
 
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Oh and its designed to have thin insulation, the thick insulated wires are usually the stuff that melts.

This is thin to fit properly in harness connectors.

We really did not skimp on any materials in the kit. Even buying 1000ft spools cost $200 per color.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks Chris, and sorry if I double guessed your work, I should have known....

Bob. :)
 
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Thanks Chris, and sorry if I double guessed your work, I should have known....

Bob. :)
No worries, appreciate the questions. Parts store wiring probably would melt there.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #259
Every time I see Mil Spec on something I shudder. Our kit always breaks lol
Hahaha 🤣 especially with the advertisements and infomercials that all claim "military grade" this and that. But nah, the term "Mil-Spec" does get tossed around loosely which reflects badly on the actually good stuff. At least the "MIL.SPEC" company still delivers quality 😅

For added humor...







-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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