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Okay so i have a 1995 Dodge Stealth r/t and my car was running fine no problems until last night i wanted to check if i was good on coolant cause the last time i checked was about 2-3 years ago when i put new coolant into the car. I took the radiator cap off and saw i was good at the full level. Then the next day im driving to the bank and turned the car off to get some money. Then once i went back to turn the car on i see my Temperature gauge start to slowly rise. Could i have maybe broken my Radiator cap while taking it off and now it cant hold pressure? I also replaced my thermostats as well when i put new coolant in 2-3 years ago. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?
 

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Hmmm, Where was the temperature gauge at when it was overheating exactly?

What were the conditions of when it was overheating? was it sitting in a parking lot idling for awhile, was in stop and go traffic before hand, etc.

Did you check your coolant at the reservoir or at the Water Neck on the engine?

If i were to take a guess, it sounds like maybe you fans were not kicking on so the car got hot, or if you checked your coolant at the water neck then maybe the cap wasn't fully closed, or seated correctly - if the cap is loose it can definitely lead to overheating.. a new cap is $2-3 at autozone, they are pretty universal, just make sure the pressure is the same, I believe a 0.9Bar is what they usually are... it couldn't hurt to toss a new one on.
 

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All the above questions are relevant, and did the temperature go back to normal once you started driving? If its hot outside and the car sits only briefly, the temp can go up from the coolant that heated up in the block, although it should quickly drop back down once circulated.

From experience, if the cap is not installed correctly, has a weak spring, or the rubber is deteoriated/not sealing, you will push coolant into the overflow container even when you are not overheating, which may ultimately lead to your coolant being low. When the car is COLD, remove the cap and start the engine to make sure coolant is flowing and full. Then verify the level in the overflow container. If both those are good, let the car idle until at operating temp. Make sure the fans come on when they are supposed to. Also make sure the AC fan comes on when turning on the AC. That should eliminate the easy to check things...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
THAT WAS MY MISTAKE LMAO. I checked my coolant level under my cap while the car was cold and saw it was at the full level and popped the cap back on. I never turned the car on to see the true level. I was low on coolant from a very small leak i found coming from my lower radiator hose clamp that was not clamping down on the hose tightly anymore and the hose looked like it was bulging from the outside so i just replaced both the clamp and hose. And this time i topped off my coolant with the car running and letting the air bubbles escape. I totally forgot about turning the car on to see the true level ??‍♂ but thanks for the help guys I appreciate it and my car is running steady in the middle of the temp gauge now no more overheating ??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All the above questions are relevant, and did the temperature go back to normal once you started driving? If its hot outside and the car sits only briefly, the temp can go up from the coolant that heated up in the block, although it should quickly drop back down once circulated.

From experience, if the cap is not installed correctly, has a weak spring, or the rubber is deteoriated/not sealing, you will push coolant into the overflow container even when you are not overheating, which may ultimately lead to your coolant being low. When the car is COLD, remove the cap and start the engine to make sure coolant is flowing and full. Then verify the level in the overflow container. If both those are good, let the car idle until at operating temp. Make sure the fans come on when they are supposed to. Also make sure the AC fan comes on when turning on the AC. That should eliminate the easy to check things...
Never mind my car is still over heating and it seems to be only happening when i am parked. I thought topping off my coolant fixed the issue cause it actually was low but even with it full its still overheating again. And yes i filled it from the water neck and poured slowly letting the air bubbles out till it was completely full. I replaced my thermostat about 2.5 years ago and my car has around 160,000 miles so i dont think its the water pump or see any leaking coming from there either. Any idea what else it could be?
 

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Never mind my car is still over heating and it seems to be only happening when i am parked. I thought topping off my coolant fixed the issue cause it actually was low but even with it full its still overheating again. And yes i filled it from the water neck and poured slowly letting the air bubbles out till it was completely full. I replaced my thermostat about 2.5 years ago and my car has around 160,000 miles so i dont think its the water pump or see any leaking coming from there either. Any idea what else it could be?
So it is overheating only when you are parked and sitting idling? Immediate suspicion would be the fans... did you confirm they both come on when they are supposed to? There are thresholds for each in the manual, although you dont be able to see actual coolant temperature unless you have some sort of datalogging setup. But if the car is overheating and they are not both on, there is most likely a problem. You can also verify the AC fan comes on immediately when you turn the AC on.

I assumed the coolant flow seemed normal when you were filling with the car running? If the fans are on properly and its still overheating, it would suggest water pump or radiator itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So it is overheating only when you are parked and sitting idling? Immediate suspicion would be the fans... did you confirm they both come on when they are supposed to? There are thresholds for each in the manual, although you dont be able to see actual coolant temperature unless you have some sort of datalogging setup. But if the car is overheating and they are not both on, there is most likely a problem. You can also verify the AC fan comes on immediately when you turn the AC on.

I assumed the coolant flow seemed normal when you were filling with the car running? If the fans are on properly and its still overheating, it would suggest water pump or radiator itself.
Yes the flow seemed good and normal when i was adding coolant yesturday, and the past 2 times it has only overheated when i had the car in Park. Because i drove it to work and back while sitting in traffic idling and no overheating. Only until i got him and pulled into my garage and put my car and parked it and lifted my hood and saw both fans running. Then one of the fans started to kick on and spin super fast and this was when i saw my temperature gauge start to slowly climb up. I dont have any leaks coming from my radiator because i pressure tested the system and i had no coolant leaks except from the lower radiator hose with a clamp that wasnt clamping tight anymore, but i replaced both of those yesturday. or maybe its bad internally?? Or possible even the thermostat is bad again??
 

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Yes the flow seemed good and normal when i was adding coolant yesturday, and the past 2 times it has only overheated when i had the car in Park. Because i drove it to work and back while sitting in traffic idling and no overheating. Only until i got him and pulled into my garage and put my car and parked it and lifted my hood and saw both fans running. Then one of the fans started to kick on and spin super fast and this was when i saw my temperature gauge start to slowly climb up. I dont have any leaks coming from my radiator because i pressure tested the system and i had no coolant leaks except from the lower radiator hose with a clamp that wasnt clamping tight anymore, but i replaced both of those yesturday. or maybe its bad internally?? Or possible even the thermostat is bad again??
My Radiator could be bad internally is what i meant*
 

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Yeah, both things you proposed could be to blame. If its the original radiator from 1995 you may just want to get a cheap aluminum single pass, i know the 3sx one for TTs i got many years ago was reasonably priced and works fine with stock fans. I used to overheat when going up hills or with AC running on a very hot day even though everything else was replaced/working fine (water pump, t-stat, cap, fans, etc). New radiator fixed that and never had a cooling issue again.

I suppose it could be thermostat but i would suspect that wouldnt only have an effect when parked...
 

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Yeah, both things you proposed could be to blame. If its the original radiator from 1995 you may just want to get a cheap aluminum single pass, i know the 3sx one for TTs i got many years ago was reasonably priced and works fine with stock fans. I used to overheat when going up hills or with AC running on a very hot day even though everything else was replaced/working fine (water pump, t-stat, cap, fans, etc). New radiator fixed that and never had a cooling issue again.

I suppose it could be thermostat but i would suspect that wouldnt only have an effect when parked...
Does 3sx carry the cheap aluminum single pass radiators that you are talking about?? Or can i just pick one up from a local auto parts store like Autozone or Oreily’s?? But im not sure if its my radiator cause i have no leaks coming from it and it only overheats when idling. Ive always thought a bad radiator would give symptoms of overheating at like freeway speeds or when the car is at higher speeds. Cause my car starts to overheat if i let it idle for too long but as i start to accelerate it jumped back down to the middle yesterday while driving it. Thats why i was maybe thinking my Thermostat is probably sticking closed or open and giving me this overheating problem when idling for too long. Again it ONLY overheats when i am idling for too long or a i am parked. And i don’t think its my headgasket because my coolant didnt have any exhaust gas smell to it and smelled like regular coolant in the car.
 

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Yeah, both things you proposed could be to blame. If its the original radiator from 1995 you may just want to get a cheap aluminum single pass, i know the 3sx one for TTs i got many years ago was reasonably priced and works fine with stock fans. I used to overheat when going up hills or with AC running on a very hot day even though everything else was replaced/working fine (water pump, t-stat, cap, fans, etc). New radiator fixed that and never had a cooling issue again.

I suppose it could be thermostat but i would suspect that wouldnt only have an effect when parked...
Does 3sx carry the cheap aluminum single pass radiators that you are talking about?? Or can i just pick one up from a local auto parts store like Autozone or Oreily’s?? But im not sure if its my radiator cause i have no leaks coming from it and it only overheats when idling. Ive always thought a bad radiator would give symptoms of overheating at like freeway speeds or when the car is at higher speeds. Cause my car starts to overheat if i let it idle for too long but as i start to accelerate it jumped back down to the middle yesterday while driving it. Thats why i was maybe thinking my Thermostat is probably sticking closed or open and giving me this overheating problem when idling for too long. Again it ONLY overheats when i am idling for too long or a i am parked. And i don’t think its my headgasket because my coolant didnt have any exhaust gas smell to it and smelled like regular coolant in the car.
 

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This should be the one you need, but confirm it works for NA. https://www.3sx.com/3sx-custom-high-capacity-single-pass-radiator-3000gt-stealth-manual-trans-only

I'm not saying just throw the radiator at it if you arent sure. What happens if you raise the RPM while idling? Does the temperature drops immediately when you start driving (even at low speeds)? If its more RPM dependent than speed dependent could be the water pump. You can also pop off your top radiator hose and have a look in the radiator to see the condition... when you last changed the coolant how did the old coolant look?
 

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This should be the one you need, but confirm it works for NA. https://www.3sx.com/3sx-custom-high-capacity-single-pass-radiator-3000gt-stealth-manual-trans-only

I'm not saying just throw the radiator at it if you arent sure. What happens if you raise the RPM while idling? Does the temperature drops immediately when you start driving (even at low speeds)? If its more RPM dependent than speed dependent could be the water pump. You can also pop off your top radiator hose and have a look in the radiator to see the condition... when you last changed the coolant how did the old coolant look?
Well i replaced my thermostat and the car has not overheated on me anymore in the past 2 days so i think that was the problem. But thanks for the help man appreciate it ??
 

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All the above questions are relevant, and did the temperature go back to normal once you started driving? If its hot outside and the car sits only briefly, the temp can go up from the coolant that heated up in the block, although it should quickly drop back down once circulated.

From experience, if the cap is not installed correctly, has a weak spring, or the rubber is deteoriated/not sealing, you will push coolant into the overflow container even when you are not overheating, which may ultimately lead to your coolant being low. When the car is COLD, remove the cap and start the engine to make sure coolant is flowing and full. Then verify the level in the overflow container. If both those are good, let the car idle until at operating temp. Make sure the fans come on when they are supposed to. Also make sure the AC fan comes on when turning on the AC. That should eliminate the easy to check things...
I know this was from awhile ago but my car has begun to overheat again and this time only when i am on the freeway going over 65 my temperature gauge begins to slowly climb but if i let off the gas it will come slowly back down again. The car doesnt overheat when i drive on the streets but only as i go over 65 mph on the freeway. And It doesnt begin to overheat right away when i get on the freeway. I can cruise at 75 mph for about 25 minutes but then after the temp gauge begins to slowly climb unless i let of the gas and try not to go over 65 mph. But im trying to check my coolant level and i know the car has to be Cold when i check it but if it seems a little low. Is it okay to just add coolant until its at the right level, pouring slowly, and waiting for the air bubbles to escape, but do i have to wait till the car is at operating temp to put the cap back on? Or can i just fill the coolant to the appropriate level and put the cap back on once its full without having to wait till the car is at operating temp?
 

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Dont know why you started a new thread... but see my post there.
 
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