Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts
K

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Someone who will remained unnamed accidentlly picked up the wrong oil for me. I asked them to pick up 5 qts of Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil 10w30. Here's my problem, this person got me Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w30( yes that's right 0w30 ). It says it is an extreme formula that protects from 400 F to 50 F below freezing. Do you think this is worth trying in the engine or should I take it back and get 10w30?? VERY VERY CURIOUS!!!

Thanks,
Derrick
 
K

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Take it back. It will give your engine less protection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Derrick,

It's not the end of the world. The 0 in 0W-30 is the viscosity at lower temps. (W is for winter) The lower the number, the easier the cold oil flows at startup. I would say it's ok to run this winter, but come spring change to 10W-30. PA winters are not that cold, but once the oil warms up it takes on a viscosity of 30. The wonders of multi-blends. What kind of filter did you get? Stay clear of the Fram filters, go with a K&N, Mobil 1, or Purolator.

Kevin
 

·
Curmudgeon
Joined
·
5,458 Posts
Actually the "W" stands for Weight.
The way they make multi-weight oil is to start with a relativly thin oil and add "viscosity modifiers" to "thicken" the oil to a higher viscosity when warm. Thus a 10W-30 is a 10 weight oil that thickens to 30 weight when warm.
As far as using the 0W-30 I'd bring it back. It's probably not the worse thing you could use but then again if you happened to spin a bearing next month you'd always, in the back of your head, blame "The Nameless One".
Of course since THEY bought it you could experiment on THEIR car ;^) ;^)
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That's your call on the Syntec. It doesn't matter what was run in the car previously, you can put the synthetic in. I would run 10W30 before I ran a 40 or 50 weight modifiers with a lower weight base stock. I personally won't ever use Castrol oil in my car anyway. I have seen teardowns of LT1 motors in Camaro's and Firebirds that have used the Syntec and a lot of the valvetrain was varnished up pretty bad. The Mobil 1 motors were in much cleaner shape internally that I have seen, but that is a matter of preference on my part. If the Syntec is working well for you, go ahead and keep on using it, any synthetic, no matter what brand is better than conventional oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
Here is an excerpt (sp?) from the Valvoline website.

Start Paste:

What does the W in 5W-30 stand for, and what's the difference between a 10W-30 motor oil and a 5W-30? Should I be using a thicker oil when it's hot out? -- Jeff Brandon, Milwaukee, Wis.

The W stands for winter and lets you know the viscosity of the motor oil when it is cold outside.

You won't see much difference between a 10W-30 and 5W-30 motor oil, but your engine might. The 5W-30 flows better at lower temperatures and reaches the critical moving parts of the engine faster. Many autos call for the thinner 5W-30 motor oil. As always, you should follow the recommendations outlined in your owner's manual


End Paste.

Kevin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,053 Posts
This is fun ... W stays for winter, hahah. So why isn't the second figure not called S for Summer or H for high temp...

I'm using 10W-60 (ten winter times 60 gives...) when running the car hot for a longer time. Now I'm using the 0W-40 (no winter ??) for the better viscosity as I started to experience a little ticking in the first 1.75second after the car started up.

No problem, keep the oil you got, it's ok for sure !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,040 Posts
Okay so now I have a similar question... I got a good deal on mobil1 syn. 15W50... I know it is better for summer use... but how well would this protect in the HARSH oklahoma winter... heh heh... it might see freezing... it will snow and possible ice, but 0 is a REALLY COLD DAY... safe or sorry????
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I was going to start a new post, but this is VERY related so here goes. I have used Castrol Syntec (full sythetic) in my 460 Ford Truck ever since I bought it, because the original owner says he has used it in it since new. I have over 100,000 miles on it and it literrally runs like new, no oil leaks, no ticks, runs cool, etc. I really like this oil.
I want to use this in my 92 SL that I have just had over a week, but I have no idea what the prior owner(s) used in it. Will I hurt it by starting to use Castrol Syntec in it from now on?
Please Reply! I'm changing oil this weekend..(along with transmission fluid, timing belt and spark plugs maybe...)
Thanks! Randy
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Sorry, I meant to say that I use Castrol Syntec (Full Synthetic) in 5W-50 weight.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,503 Posts
In fairness to "Motorhead", he was, after all, merely conveying the (presumably) one piece of knowledge he had found concerning the "W" (and from a reputabel source at that), and was simply defending himself against the ridicule. it seems that the rest of us have always been taught that the "W" means weight, but if the first and only explanation that I'd ever heard was that it meant "winter", I'd be defending myself too. Give the guy a break.

For TwinTurobRT, I'd be a little leary of 15W50 in winter. I think most of us run 10Wsomething for the summer so, if anything, you'd want no higher than 10Wxxx, possibly even going lower to 5Wxxx for those cold starts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,053 Posts
Castrol Syntec is nothing for dyno-designed cars like the LT1 (in my Z28) On our cars it is one of the best if not the best oil. The Mobil 1 0W-40 is good but I always had less klicking noise with the Castrol oil and I went back twice. During the rebuild (at around 50k) we saw almost no signs of wear even with broken pistons and rings. In Summer I run 10W-60 Castrol RS Syntec Racing oil and in winter a mixture with 0W-30. I love the stuff and it's cheaper than Mobil too (we pay $15 a liter !)
 

·
Curmudgeon
Joined
·
5,458 Posts
Whoa! Hang on guys, I never meant to give Motorhead a hard time!
Turns out he was right anyway. Sorry Kevin!

Years ago I was told that the "W" in 10W-30 was the "winter weight" and that at cold temperatures it thinned to a 10 weight and in warmer temps it magically turned into a 30 weight.
Later I was "educated" that the 10 was the base oil used, with viscosity modifiers that caused the 10 weight to act like a 30 weight when hot. Somehow I got the idea that the "W" stood for base weight.
All this fuss inspired me to do some research, and I stand corrected.

I was correct about the first number being the base oil.
From http://howstuffworks.com/question164.htm
Multi-weight oils (e.g. - 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating
temperature. This page offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:

At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is
to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

However I also learned that oils passing SAE standard J300 for cold cranking flow rates are designated "W" for Winter service. This isn't just for multi-grade oils but straight weight too. Also the highest viscosity to carry the "W" is about 25. Therefore a 10W-30 is a 10-weight oil that passes SAE J300 and performs like a 30 weight when hot. I also found some interesting stuff here: http://members.aol.com/brnorth3/amsoil/modern.html

Steve


[This message has been edited by Steve '93ES (edited December 09, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Steve '93ES (edited December 09, 1999).]
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hey All If Castol Syntech is so excellent then Roger c Why were you at 50K Seeing broken pistons and rings,Must raise an eyebrow somewhere!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
392 Posts
To Andrew..... thank you for sticking up for me but I was not defending myself just trying to educate. I was at work so that was the quickest website I could pull out to show you guys.

To Steve..... I was not offended by your remark, glad you took it upon yourself to research the subject a little more. I was going to add some more proof but was at work and you know how that goes. (they actually expect me to do work there. The nerve of some people. LOL ) I also found a cool website with some info from Redline, I will see if I can find it again.

Later guys,
Kevin
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top