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Oil pump+oil pan

3K views 34 replies 7 participants last post by  enkaio 
#1 ·
Hello all, I’m looking to upgrade my oil pan soon to the extended one since I have a small dent in my oem pan and the last thing I want is a spun bearing. Should I replace my oil pump while I’m already down there with everything open? My stock crap oil gauge says I’m fine but I get the flickering oil light whenever I am idling after pushing my 3S hard. I’m sure it’s fine and I’m getting my aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed once my A-pillar gauge mounts get here in a month or two but I want to avoid a rebuild at all costs.
 
#3 ·
+1, what weight oil are you running? Should definitely be a quality 20W50 like VR-1 if you are pushing the car hard.
 
#9 ·
I live up in Maine where right now the warmest it’ll get on average is 40 degrees but it’s usually between 20-30 everyday. And I’ll get a pic of my oil pan tomorrow
Still recommend the switch to 20W50, and let the car warm (oil takes longer than coolant) before and hard driving or high revs. You will see even the stock oil gauge qualitatively indicate when the oil is getting warmed up.
 
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#10 ·
Still recommend the switch to 20W50, and let the car warm (oil takes longer than coolant) before and hard driving or high revs. You will see even the stock oil gauge qualitatively indicate when the oil is getting warmed up.
You’re a life saver let’s hope the 10w30 didn’t damage my bearings, we’ll find out tomorrow when I change the oil
 
#11 ·
You might as well send an oil sample for analysis before making the switch. This will give you a basis for comparison and some empirical data.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
#12 ·
Excellent idea - request an sample kit from blackstone labs (free, but takes a week or so to get it). Definitely recommend collecting a sample of your current oil as suggested, even if there are not a lot of miles on it. Great data to have. I have done a couple times on my TT and started to on my other cars as well.
 
#13 ·
I don't have a dented oil pan but I have been on the fence about what weight oil to use. Currently I have 10w30 in my vr4 and live in Ohio. Good to know people have been having success with 20w50 which I am probably going to switch to this weekend....Or get a better oil cooler / relocate from behind SMIC's?

Also want to add that I spoke to my engine builder yesterday and was talking about oil for my vr4. He stated we should be blending 2qt of 20w50 into our 10w30. Thoughts on this? (Sorry to crash your post but thought it was relevant.)
 
#16 ·
IMO, just run 20W50 and let the car warm up. I have never used anything except 20W50 in my VR4 since a rebuild and the engine has over 100k on it now (and those were not easy miles). My 100k oil analysis from Blackstone labs was solid with nothing concerning.

I converted from mobil1 synthetic 10w30 to castrol synthetic 5w40 and I've noticed the oil pressure a bit lower when the engine is cold and bit higher when the engine is hot, so I think I've made the right switch. I think we have greater viscosity choices now than when our cars were new, might as well take advantage of that! :)
That is exactly what should happen with the first number being lower and the 2nd number being higher :). Kindof surprised you were able to see that small difference, unless you are looking at actual PSI on a aftermarket gauge.
 
#14 ·
I converted from mobil1 synthetic 10w30 to castrol synthetic 5w40 and I've noticed the oil pressure a bit lower when the engine is cold and bit higher when the engine is hot, so I think I've made the right switch. I think we have greater viscosity choices now than when our cars were new, might as well take advantage of that! :)
 
#19 ·
Yes, just allow proper warm up and do NOT apply heavy load immediately. If you have an actual oil pressure gauge, then you will see the cold, high-pressure reading lower and settle to something more normal and reasonable (in my case, 70+psi down to 20+ once warm). Personally, I use Mobil1 15W-50 in all of my cars and my friends' / clients' cars.

Even during my hard break-in, I switched to the heavy stuff at only 100 miles... analysis came out great:
 
#28 ·
Well it certainly looks rusty, but from this angle it doesnt really look dented? It's usually pretty clear when someone jacks up the car or something from the oil pan and the ciricle is clearly concave (into the pan). I honestly think mine is about the same and always has been; probably not totally convex like it should be but also not crushed in.
 
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#30 ·
I am more surprised that the flex section has not gone to complete crap with the oil pan looking like Two-Face lol.
 
#34 ·
Just wanted to update y’all on my progress if you cared. Had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed. 15w50 was too thick for the climate as on cold idle my oil pressure was 120psi. Switched to synthetic 10w40 and it’s great. Turns out the dummy oil light is being caused by my idle. I idle at 500 and get about 11psi which is too low for me, but at 750rpms I get 19-22psi which is better. Thanks for everyone’s input you guys make this platform great, definitely a great change from my 350z/G35 forum Days.
 
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#35 ·
10W60 (Castrol) was recommended by the mitsu dealers for the EURO 3000GT back in the day when you drive the car to the fullest and most of us still use it along other brands and 10W50 all year. Cars have 150k miles on them on stock engine and no pressure issues or bearing failures.

Around every 3000-5000 miles it's due for a oil change (when driving hard).
 
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