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Even during the cold months on a motor that's close to 100k miles living in northern Ohio?
15W50 is a good alternative as alan suggested if you are concerned about the cold viscosity. The higher the mileage, the more you want the thicker oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
15W50 is a good alternative as alan suggested if you are concerned about the cold viscosity. The higher the mileage, the more you want the thicker oil.
I already bought the 20w50 today I’m gonna put it in next week and not run my car too hard while I still have 10w30 in. You’re confident the 20w50 won’t damage my internals at a cold start?
 

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I already bought the 20w50 today I’m gonna put it in next week and not run my car too hard while I still have 10w30 in. You’re confident the 20w50 won’t damage my internals at a cold start?
I would order the kit to do the oil analysis and collect a sample of the 10W30 as you drain to change it.

Of course i can make no guarantees, but i have only run and will continue to run 20W50. There are also numerous oil threads if you do some searching of people who only run 20W50 year around. Ultimately it is your decision. I can't imagine 20w being too thick on a 100k mile engine. We arent talking about a brand new modern car with very tight bearing clearances that run 0W oil. Infact, if i recall correctly and this image i just found is correct, even the owners manual says 20W is fine down to 32F

285480


 

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Discussion Starter #25
I would order the kit to do the oil analysis and collect a sample of the 10W30 as you drain to change it.

Of course i can make no guarantees, but i have only run and will continue to run 20W50. There are also numerous oil threads if you do some searching of people who only run 20W50 year around. Ultimately it is your decision. I can't imagine 20w being too thick on a 100k mile engine. We arent talking about a brand new modern car with very tight bearing clearances that run 0W oil. Infact, if i recall correctly and this image i just found is correct, even the owners manual says 20W is fine down to 32F

View attachment 285480

Man you really put the work in on these forums, I ordered the kit last night I’ll get that shipped off when it comes, with my luck my oil is gonna be fucked lol but I’m hopeful cause I’m only the 2nd owner and it has 93xxx on the clock
 

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Man you really put the work in on these forums, I ordered the kit last night I’ll get that shipped off when it comes, with my luck my oil is gonna be fucked lol but I’m hopeful cause I’m only the 2nd owner and it has 93xxx on the clock
I'm optomistic youll be fine :)

For reference, i posted my 100k oil analysis results here, and i think alan had several results posted as well:

 

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Well it certainly looks rusty, but from this angle it doesnt really look dented? It's usually pretty clear when someone jacks up the car or something from the oil pan and the ciricle is clearly concave (into the pan). I honestly think mine is about the same and always has been; probably not totally convex like it should be but also not crushed in.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'm optomistic youll be fine :)

For reference, i posted my 100k oil analysis results here, and i think alan had several results posted as well:

Well it certainly looks rusty, but from this angle it doesnt really look dented? It's usually pretty clear when someone jacks up the car or something from the oil pan and the ciricle is clearly concave (into the pan). I honestly think mine is about the same and always has been; probably not totally convex like it should be but also not crushed in.
Getting the oil changed on Tuesday, I don’t think I can go wrong with 10w40, I think the 20w50 is too much for the climate, and I want to be able to push the car a little on those nice days
 

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I am more surprised that the flex section has not gone to complete crap with the oil pan looking like Two-Face lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'm optomistic youll be fine :)

For reference, i posted my 100k oil analysis results here, and i think alan had several results posted as well:

Well it certainly looks rusty, but from this angle it doesnt really look dented? It's usually pretty clear when someone jacks up the car or something from the oil pan and the ciricle is clearly concave (into the pan). I honestly think mine is about the same and always has been; probably not totally convex like it should be but also not crushed in.
Getting the oil changed on Tuesday, I don’t think I can go wrong with 10w40, I think the 20w50 is too much for the climate, and I want to be able to push the car a little on those nice days
I am more surprised that the flex section has not gone to complete crap with the oil pan looking like Two-Face lol.
I am more surprised that the flex section has not gone to complete crap with the oil pan looking like Two-Face lol.
Lol it went a week later so I got a 3SX Downpipe
 

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Getting the oil changed on Tuesday, I don’t think I can go wrong with 10w40, I think the 20w50 is too much for the climate, and I want to be able to push the car a little on those nice days
Seems reasonble, and you have the 20W50 for summer or if the 10w40 isnt enough. If you have a IR thermometer gun i would be interested to see what your oil cooler temp is immediately after pushing the car. Kindof a ghetto way to infer oil temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Just wanted to update y’all on my progress if you cared. Had an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed. 15w50 was too thick for the climate as on cold idle my oil pressure was 120psi. Switched to synthetic 10w40 and it’s great. Turns out the dummy oil light is being caused by my idle. I idle at 500 and get about 11psi which is too low for me, but at 750rpms I get 19-22psi which is better. Thanks for everyone’s input you guys make this platform great, definitely a great change from my 350z/G35 forum Days.
 

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10W60 (Castrol) was recommended by the mitsu dealers for the EURO 3000GT back in the day when you drive the car to the fullest and most of us still use it along other brands and 10W50 all year. Cars have 150k miles on them on stock engine and no pressure issues or bearing failures.

Around every 3000-5000 miles it's due for a oil change (when driving hard).
 
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