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Hello all, I’m looking to upgrade my oil pan soon to the extended one since I have a small dent in my oem pan and the last thing I want is a spun bearing. Should I replace my oil pump while I’m already down there with everything open? My stock crap oil gauge says I’m fine but I get the flickering oil light whenever I am idling after pushing my 3S hard. I’m sure it’s fine and I’m getting my aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed once my A-pillar gauge mounts get here in a month or two but I want to avoid a rebuild at all costs.
 

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The flickering light after running the car hard is because the oil is getting to hot and is thinning out to much thus causing the low oil pressure. Run thicker oil and a better oil cooler.

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The flickering light after running the car hard is because the oil is getting to hot and is thinning out to much thus causing the low oil pressure. Run thicker oil and a better oil cooler.

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+1, what weight oil are you running? Should definitely be a quality 20W50 like VR-1 if you are pushing the car hard.
 

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Shit I wish you guys were here when I was asking about oil weight 2 months ago lol everybody told me to run 10w30
If you live in a freezing climate, you can consider going down to that weight during the winter. However, if you are going to be doing hard driving as you describe, i would not run anything other than 20W50. Valvoline VR-1 is a solid/popular choice. The stock oil cooler is OK but doesnt get much air flow with stock SMIC so oil can heat up and thin after extended hard driving. Oil light is not a good sign as that is 8psi IIRC.

Post a pic of your oil pan and switch to 20W50. If you still get the light, consider the oil pump.
 

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If you live in a freezing climate, you can consider going down to that weight during the winter. However, if you are going to be doing hard driving as you describe, i would not run anything other than 20W50. Valvoline VR-1 is a solid/popular choice. The stock oil cooler is OK but doesnt get much air flow with stock SMIC so oil can heat up and thin after extended hard driving. Oil light is not a good sign as that is 8psi IIRC.

Post a pic of your oil pan and switch to 20W50. If you still get the light, consider the oil pump.
I live up in Maine where right now the warmest it’ll get on average is 40 degrees but it’s usually between 20-30 everyday. And I’ll get a pic of my oil pan tomorrow
 

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I live up in Maine where right now the warmest it’ll get on average is 40 degrees but it’s usually between 20-30 everyday. And I’ll get a pic of my oil pan tomorrow
Still recommend the switch to 20W50, and let the car warm (oil takes longer than coolant) before and hard driving or high revs. You will see even the stock oil gauge qualitatively indicate when the oil is getting warmed up.
 

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Still recommend the switch to 20W50, and let the car warm (oil takes longer than coolant) before and hard driving or high revs. You will see even the stock oil gauge qualitatively indicate when the oil is getting warmed up.
You’re a life saver let’s hope the 10w30 didn’t damage my bearings, we’ll find out tomorrow when I change the oil
 

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You might as well send an oil sample for analysis before making the switch. This will give you a basis for comparison and some empirical data.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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You might as well send an oil sample for analysis before making the switch. This will give you a basis for comparison and some empirical data.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
Excellent idea - request an sample kit from blackstone labs (free, but takes a week or so to get it). Definitely recommend collecting a sample of your current oil as suggested, even if there are not a lot of miles on it. Great data to have. I have done a couple times on my TT and started to on my other cars as well.
 

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I don't have a dented oil pan but I have been on the fence about what weight oil to use. Currently I have 10w30 in my vr4 and live in Ohio. Good to know people have been having success with 20w50 which I am probably going to switch to this weekend....Or get a better oil cooler / relocate from behind SMIC's?

Also want to add that I spoke to my engine builder yesterday and was talking about oil for my vr4. He stated we should be blending 2qt of 20w50 into our 10w30. Thoughts on this? (Sorry to crash your post but thought it was relevant.)
 

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I converted from mobil1 synthetic 10w30 to castrol synthetic 5w40 and I've noticed the oil pressure a bit lower when the engine is cold and bit higher when the engine is hot, so I think I've made the right switch. I think we have greater viscosity choices now than when our cars were new, might as well take advantage of that! :)
 

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I converted from mobil1 synthetic 10w30 to castrol synthetic 5w40 and I've noticed the oil pressure a bit lower when the engine is cold and bit higher when the engine is hot, so I think I've made the right switch. I think we have greater viscosity choices now than when our cars were new, might as well take advantage of that! :)
Yeah I get high oil pressure numbers on a cold start with 10w30 synthetic and low oil pressure numbers once its warmed up. So you are saying you get the reverse with 5w40? Very interesting.
 

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I don't have a dented oil pan but I have been on the fence about what weight oil to use. Currently I have 10w30 in my vr4 and live in Ohio. Good to know people have been having success with 20w50 which I am probably going to switch to this weekend....Or get a better oil cooler / relocate from behind SMIC's?

Also want to add that I spoke to my engine builder yesterday and was talking about oil for my vr4. He stated we should be blending 2qt of 20w50 into our 10w30. Thoughts on this? (Sorry to crash your post but thought it was relevant.)
IMO, just run 20W50 and let the car warm up. I have never used anything except 20W50 in my VR4 since a rebuild and the engine has over 100k on it now (and those were not easy miles). My 100k oil analysis from Blackstone labs was solid with nothing concerning.

I converted from mobil1 synthetic 10w30 to castrol synthetic 5w40 and I've noticed the oil pressure a bit lower when the engine is cold and bit higher when the engine is hot, so I think I've made the right switch. I think we have greater viscosity choices now than when our cars were new, might as well take advantage of that! :)
That is exactly what should happen with the first number being lower and the 2nd number being higher :). Kindof surprised you were able to see that small difference, unless you are looking at actual PSI on a aftermarket gauge.
 

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Yeah I get high oil pressure numbers on a cold start with 10w30 synthetic and low oil pressure numbers once its warmed up. So you are saying you get the reverse with 5w40? Very interesting.
That's exactly what the numbers mean... first number is "cold start" weight/viscosity (i.e., around 32F), second number is viscosity at 210F.
 

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Kindof surprised you were able to see that small difference, unless you are looking at actual PSI on a aftermarket gauge.
in all fairness, I was counting the number of "ticks" on the stock oil pressure gauge. I noticed at cold start, the oil pressure gauge read a tick lower with 5w40 and I noticed at hot idle, the oil pressure gauge read a tick higher with 5w40. I know it's not exact, but it's what I saw so I was happy with the switch from 10w30 to 5w40.:)

I personally think 20w50 is to thick to run in cold climate on a healthy (or recently rebuilt) 6g72, but my guess is that a high mileage engine or warm climate would have no trouble with that viscosity.
 

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Yes, just allow proper warm up and do NOT apply heavy load immediately. If you have an actual oil pressure gauge, then you will see the cold, high-pressure reading lower and settle to something more normal and reasonable (in my case, 70+psi down to 20+ once warm). Personally, I use Mobil1 15W-50 in all of my cars and my friends' / clients' cars.

Even during my hard break-in, I switched to the heavy stuff at only 100 miles... analysis came out great:
 

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IMO, just run 20W50 and let the car warm up. I have never used anything except 20W50 in my VR4 since a rebuild and the engine has over 100k on it now (and those were not easy miles). My 100k oil analysis from Blackstone labs was solid with nothing concerning.
Even during the cold months on a motor that's close to 100k miles living in northern Ohio?
 
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