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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering how efficient our OEM oil cooler is compared to aftermarket ones. What brand/style is most beneficial to a fully built motor. Suggestions and expieriences will be appreciated thanks.
 

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Lovbyts
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My OEM one has 250,000 miles on it and no problems so far except for a leaky hose I had to replace.
 

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SDSU Alumnus
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I mean... 30-year-old design compared to newer stacked-plate styles 🤷‍♂️

Drop in the bucket with a new engine... should have been done from the beginning unless you asking for later.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 
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I'd stay away from CX racing OC's. I am thinking that is "partially" to blame for my spun bearing. Setrab is the way to go or OEM with updated lines.

Just my $0.02.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I mean... 30-year-old design compared to newer stacked-plate styles 🤷‍♂️

Drop in the bucket with a new engine... should have been done from the beginning unless you asking for later.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
This is for a fresh built stage 4 Pampena motor. I wouldnt put on a used oem on a fresh build. Thats why I'm gaging info/experience to understand what would be best oem or aftermarket. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My OEM one has 250,000 miles on it and no problems so far except for a leaky hose I had to replace.
What mods you got? Sorry for the lack of info on my part. My original question was referring to a (freshly) fully built motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'd stay away from CX racing OC's. I am thinking that is "partially" to blame for my spun bearing. Setrab is the way to go or OEM with updated lines.

Just my $0.02.
Thanks for the input. Was going to pull the trigger on that cxracing setup a long while back. But lack of good feedback made me hold off.
 

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This is for a fresh built stage 4 Pampena motor. I wouldnt put on a used oem on a fresh build. Thats why I'm gaging info/experience to understand what would be best oem or aftermarket. .
At this point, it is all subjective without info or data... hell, Chris from Ninja Performance uses an OEM cooler...

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
At this point, it is all subjective without info or data... hell, Chris from Ninja Performance uses an OEM cooler...

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
Thanks for your input. It was not really a matter of having someone pin pointing exact what i need. It was more a matter what people are using that works really well with there set up. Hence "thoughts and suggestions on a built motor using oem oil cooler vs aftermarket". My goal is shooting for 700a whp. I have all the supporting mods. You name it. I got it. My point in this whole thread is to gather some info from others on brands or experiences. If you dont have that kinda info 😎cool.. if you do then im all eyes. Im no expert mechanic nor do I have oil cooling down to a science. (Hot oil moves through tubes/coils the fins/plates attached aid in the process of cooling depending on location of supplied air.) Thats pretty simple. Im not here to stir a debate nor get actual non productive info. Just really want to understand best brands/set up. (Kinda like the one posted in your recent instagram post with the Setrab) hell pointing out that post alone would have helped more than your last 2 responses in this thread.. its like you dont like me or something.
 

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Lovbyts
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What mods you got? Sorry for the lack of info on my part. My original question was referring to a (freshly) fully built motor.
In my signature.
Intake: WisCo 8.5-1 pistons with enlarged valve clearance, DR-13G turbos, FIDENZA LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL, Chrome Y-Pipe, K&N Filter Charger, HKS SSBOV, TurboXs boost controller, Krankvents & 3SX solid pre turbo pipes. Ignition: Taylor 8.5mm spark plug wires, NGK Iridium BKR7E (1 heat ranges colder than stock) gaped at .032
Fuel: S-AFC, PTE 550cc injectors, Denso/Supra 310lph fuel pump, Fuel pump Hotwire kit, relay bypass, Summit Fuel Pressure Regulator, Filter, EK2MFG braided dual feed fuel line kit
Exhaust: EK2MFG EGR Blockoff Plates, DN downpipe, Main cat eliminator flex section, Gutted Pre Cats, Custom Cat back, mufflers and tips
Other: Front & Rear Strut bars, Stillen Cross Drilled Rotors, Custom built, Rear adjustable Camber arms, Pillar mounted Boost gauge, EK2MFG Bling Bling. Dyno 400 WHP

If I had the time, money and doing my engine again I might change it and if it looks better why not. I was just commenting because I have not had any issue with overheating.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
In my signature.
Intake: WisCo 8.5-1 pistons with enlarged valve clearance, DR-13G turbos, FIDENZA LIGHTENED FLYWHEEL, Chrome Y-Pipe, K&N Filter Charger, HKS SSBOV, TurboXs boost controller, Krankvents & 3SX solid pre turbo pipes. Ignition: Taylor 8.5mm spark plug wires, NGK Iridium BKR7E (1 heat ranges colder than stock) gaped at .032
Fuel: S-AFC, PTE 550cc injectors, Denso/Supra 310lph fuel pump, Fuel pump Hotwire kit, relay bypass, Summit Fuel Pressure Regulator, Filter, EK2MFG braided dual feed fuel line kit
Exhaust: EK2MFG EGR Blockoff Plates, DN downpipe, Main cat eliminator flex section, Gutted Pre Cats, Custom Cat back, mufflers and tips
Other: Front & Rear Strut bars, Stillen Cross Drilled Rotors, Custom built, Rear adjustable Camber arms, Pillar mounted Boost gauge, EK2MFG Bling Bling. Dyno 400 WHP

If I had the time, money and doing my engine again I might change it and if it looks better why not. I was just commenting because I have not had any issue with overheating.
Thats awesome how well the oem is doing with your setup. Thanks a bunch for your input. And sorry I failed to check your sig before asking for mod list.
 

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Lovbyts
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Thats awesome how well the oem is doing with your setup. Thanks a bunch for your input. And sorry I failed to check your sig before asking for mod list.
No worries. I know most mod list are shrunk so its hard to notice.

Best of luck whatever route you decide to go.
 
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