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1991 Stealth Es
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok so when i got them they were so hard you couldnt compress them by hand then i took a paper clip and pumped them so the oil came out cause that was how mighty car mods did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
What people say and what is proper are not the same.
The mfg says prime or soak, you should prime or soak.

You say 15 seconds but above you said it made noise for 30 seconds.... Those lifters are probably pretty beat up.

Why are you obsessed with running thick oil?

Mitsubishi knows the engine and how it's made... They wrote the manual and it says 5-30w.

Finland is not know for extreme temperature, run the proper weight.

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I dont know i had no oil pressure with 5w 30 the light came on idk this is my first car so that is why i went to thicker oil but i will try to go to a 5w 40 if i mean the lifters had oil in them on start up so i dont think that they are fkt
 

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1991 Dodge Stealth ES 5sp
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I dont know i had no oil pressure with 5w 30 the light came on idk this is my first car so that is why i went to thicker oil but i will try to go to a 5w 40 if i mean the lifters had oil in them on start up so i dont think that they are fkt
Like I said before, I think you have underlying issues with your engine if you had an oil pressure light from 5w-30, despite oil levels being good.... Switching to a heavier oil is a band-aid solution that might cause more issues later on.

From an article that explains a similar situation to you:
Let’s say your engine requires 5W-30 and you want to substitute 10W-40 oil to fix low oil pressure issues. First, the 10W-40 will affect cranking and oil pumping at cold startup. So the engine will be more difficult to start and it will take longer to build pressure. That means your cold engine will be running a high RPMs with a serious lack of oil flow (oil stavation). In other words, serious cold start engine wear, which makes the original problem ever worse. Just for the record, “cold engine” in car talk means any engine that hasn’t run for three or more hours. Don’t think that because you live in Arizona, you’re don’t have cold starts–you do.

Now let’s look at hot engine performance. All oil thins when hot. A 10W-40 oil will thin less that a 5W-30. Sounds good, right? You wanted a thicker oil to fix low oil pressure, after all. But thicker 40-weight, by its very nature, has more internal friction, so it won’t flow quickly enough to fill the spaces between bearings (bearing clearances. In other words, thicker 40-weight oil can’t create a consistent lubricating film in an engine deisgned for 30-weight oil. Worse than that, the reduce flow and higher internal friction means the oil can’t remove heat, which is one of it main jobs. So metal parts will run hotter and wear faster, making your already serious wear problem even worse.
 

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Ok so when i got them they were so hard you couldnt compress them by hand then i took a paper clip and pumped them so the oil came out cause that was how mighty car mods did it.
You did it right then. Basically the lifter should be free of air, but not fully pumped up. Basically the oil supply from the head fills them to the point they need to be, which makes them "self-adjusting" unlike lifters in a 2jz or similar. If you pump them all the way full prior to installing them, the lifters/rocker arms are maxed out and the cam kinda has to force the lifter back down as it rotates. Installed correctly the lifters might be a little noisy on first startup until the lifters fill with oil, but should be quiet after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
You did it right then. Basically the lifter should be free of air, but not fully pumped up. Basically the oil supply from the head fills them to the point they need to be, which makes them "self-adjusting" unlike lifters in a 2jz or similar. If you pump them all the way full prior to installing them, the lifters/rocker arms are maxed out and the cam kinda has to force the lifter back down as it rotates. Installed correctly the lifters might be a little noisy on first startup until the lifters fill with oil, but should be quiet after that.
well then its probably the heavy oil but idk i will try 5w 40 or 5w 30 what would you guys say and what are you using?
 

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91 VR4 wish scissors BBK wheels and tint
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well then its probably the heavy oil but idk i will try 5w 40 or 5w 30 what would you guys say and what are you using?
I doubt it's the 5w50(which I think is a strange oil composition to begin with anyways, you want it thin when cold, but thicker when hot? da fuk?). I run Rotella T5 15w40, which is technically designed for diesel engines, but it is rarely below 40F here and even when it is I'm not driving my VR4. My car has some lifter tick sometimes, but not a lot, and I'm on the original 1g lifters. Do you guys have Seafoam(a petroleum based additive/solvent) , or an equivalent over there? You could always dump some in and let it circulate for a while and see if it shuts the lifters up, it worked on mine. Either way you'd probably be doing an oil change anyways, so it couldn't hurt to try.
 

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Totella is a good oil.

Don't know why you all run such thick oils, it's a very precisely machined engine, not a 1950-1970 Chevy.
(those should run 20-40)

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Because it regularly gets like 95F+ with 90% humidity here during the summer. The car's ability to dissipate heat, especially the oil with the stock cooler, is pretty lacking. During summer driving I regularly see 140+ intake temps just from sitting at a short light, so she gets hot quick. Thankfully my 3sx radiator keeps the actual engine temps under control, but since I haven't invested in the upgraded maximal sidemount oil cooler yet I run a little thicker oil to keep my rod bearings happy. I can only imagine the temp of my oil coming out of that rear turbo since the engine, hood, and firewall make a nice little oven around it.
 

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91 VR4 wish scissors BBK wheels and tint
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Because it regularly gets like 95F+ with 90% humidity here during the summer. The car's ability to dissipate heat, especially the oil with the stock cooler, is pretty lacking. During summer driving I regularly see 140+ intake temps just from sitting at a short light, so she gets hot quick. Thankfully my 3sx radiator keeps the actual engine temps under control, but since I haven't invested in the upgraded maximal sidemount oil cooler yet I run a little thicker oil to keep my rod bearings happy. I can only imagine the temp of my oil coming out of that rear turbo since the engine, hood, and firewall make a nice little oven around it.
I've been thinking about replacing my hood blisters with vented ones for that exact reason...

I'm yet to do any hard driving with it yet, but I can only imagine...

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I doubt it's the 5w50(which I think is a strange oil composition to begin with anyways, you want it thin when cold, but thicker when hot? da fuk?). I run Rotella T5 15w40, which is technically designed for diesel engines, but it is rarely below 40F here and even when it is I'm not driving my VR4. My car has some lifter tick sometimes, but not a lot, and I'm on the original 1g lifters. Do you guys have Seafoam(a petroleum based additive/solvent) , or an equivalent over there? You could always dump some in and let it circulate for a while and see if it shuts the lifters up, it worked on mine. Either way you'd probably be doing an oil change anyways, so it couldn't hurt to try.
But the lifters are new how can the be clogged up after 6 months and 500 miles and i dont think that i fkt them cause they where full of oil at start up cause i cranked like 15 sec before i started. But i have to try the thinner oil then i guess atleast i have brand new oem oil pump so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I doubt it's the 5w50(which I think is a strange oil composition to begin with anyways, you want it thin when cold, but thicker when hot? da fuk?). I run Rotella T5 15w40, which is technically designed for diesel engines, but it is rarely below 40F here and even when it is I'm not driving my VR4. My car has some lifter tick sometimes, but not a lot, and I'm on the original 1g lifters. Do you guys have Seafoam(a petroleum based additive/solvent) , or an equivalent over there? You could always dump some in and let it circulate for a while and see if it shuts the lifters up, it worked on mine. Either way you'd probably be doing an oil change anyways, so it couldn't hurt to try.
Why thin when cold? So that when you start it it will go faster tru the whole engine so that you wont get so much wear. Im going to try 5w 40 and if it still sounds the same then i will just drive cause im kinda tired of this car i have had it for one and a half years and only driven like at most 1000miles its always broken first it was the transmission then the lifters oil pump coils now and much more. And i have put 3 times more more money in it than i paid for it😐
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
If you have an oil LIGHT come on from running 5W-30 you might have another issue.

I run 5W-30 Castrol synthetic in my 91 ES, original lifters, and it is fine. Oil pressure is good. Lifter tick only if it's sat for a while, but goes away after it warms up. If I drive it everyday, there isn't really any lifter tick on start up. When I first bought the car, the oil was dirty and lifter tick was a lot worse - after a few oil changes, it's gotten to where it is now.

I drive the car casually/spirited Spring-Fall. Ambient temperatures range from 15°C - 40°C. No issues.

If I was tracking it/running it really hard, then sure I might change the oil weight, but for "daily" activities, the OEM recommended oil weight is ok.

I know some people who have had some luck running Rislone Engine Treatment with a fresh oil change to clean out any crap in the system. Then just another fresh oil change after running it a while.
Idk it can have been the oil pressure switch cause it was leaking oil so i changed it.
 

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Why thin when cold? So that when you start it it will go faster tru the whole engine so that you wont get so much wear. Im going to try 5w 40 and if it still sounds the same then i will just drive cause im kinda tired of this car i have had it for one and a half years and only driven like at most 1000miles its always broken first it was the transmission then the lifters oil pump coils now and much more. And i have put 3 times more more money in it than i paid for it
You will quickly learn All cars are money pits...
Cooler cars and performance cars even more.

Use the proper oil...
5-30

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Doesnt oil viscosity really depend on where you live? As in is it hot, cold, etc? I use either 10W40 or 15W40 because climate is pretty temperate. For what it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Doesnt oil viscosity really depend on where you live? As in is it hot, cold, etc? I use either 10W40 or 15W40 because climate is pretty temperate. For what it's worth.
Yes but i only drive this car on summer so i would like to run 5w 40 but i will try 5w 30 first.
 
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