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You're right, it will be tight. Until I get the gauges I don't know 100% if it will work. If it does, I'm sure I'll be grinding something (lock ring tabs for example)...
I'll post more as it progresses.
One thing I could do (which could turn out pretty cool) is make the ring thicker, but make clearance slots towards the bottom to let the (2) smaller gauge bezels "slide" underneath or into the ring. Will need to experiment for sure.
 

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Hey DMC - Any tips or tricks for wiring up the SpeedHut gauges? The lights seem pretty easy - solder to copper contacts where the bulbs would twist in? Or did you find and tap all the wires from the harness behind the cluster? Any shortcuts appreciated.
Edit: Also. hit me up on the laser cut too...I can modify my model to what ever you need..I "don't think" it would cost me any more to have (2) different designs cut as long as the material is the same (Im doing 1/16" 5052 aluminum).
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Hey DMC - Any tips or tricks for wiring up the SpeedHut gauges? The lights seem pretty easy - solder to copper contacts where the bulbs would twist in? Or did you find and tap all the wires from the harness behind the cluster? Any shortcuts appreciated.
Edit: Also. hit me up on the laser cut too...I can modify my model to what ever you need..I "don't think" it would cost me any more to have (2) different designs cut as long as the material is the same (Im doing 1/16" 5052 aluminum).
the fuel gauge is connected to the back panel. I just removed the actuator and soldered the wires to the mounting points. You can use that for tachometer too, but I just connected it to my ecu harness. For the dash light, I just soldered them to the copper contacts and use hot glue to secure the wires.
 

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I had a few questions -
How exactly did you wire the fuel gauge? Do you have any pics? Also, did you have to use the resistor for the tach? Got mine done, just need to wire into the car. Was trying to post pics, but my PC doesn't like them for some reason...will post them soon.
Figured out the pics -
I ended up using some ABS sheet I had around, not aluminum...so it was all hand made, not laser. I think it turned out ok, but super tight. I actually had to hot glue the two outer gauges to the ABS because the rings wouldnt fit. Should be fine though.
I was only able to raise the tach 1/4", not the 1/2-3/4 I wanted. So that's a 1/4" 3D printed ring under it.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I had a few questions -
How exactly did you wire the fuel gauge? Do you have any pics? Also, did you have to use the resistor for the tach? Got mine done, just need to wire into the car. Was trying to post pics, but my PC doesn't like them for some reason...will post them soon.
Figured out the pics -
I ended up using some ABS sheet I had around, not aluminum...so it was all hand made, not laser. I think it turned out ok, but super tight. I actually had to hot glue the two outer gauges to the ABS because the rings wouldnt fit. Should be fine though.
I was only able to raise the tach 1/4", not the 1/2-3/4 I wanted. So that's a 1/4" 3D printed ring under it.
That looks great. I don't have any photos. You just remove the motor for the hands and use the screws. The panel says what each bolt does.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Did you need to use the tach resistor? Or just wire to ECU tach wire? The instructions say you need the resistor, but I dont see why you would if you can program the tach?
 

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Well since photos and videos don't last on social media, might as well post them here too. Didn't turn out as clean as I like to but it'll do for now. CNC is a must to get it right or someone who's really good at fabrication.



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Great work!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Did you need to use the tach resistor? Or just wire to ECU tach wire? The instructions say you need the resistor, but I dont see why you would if you can program the tach?
I just wired it to the rpm signal. I don't know anything about the resistor.

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OK, thanks...that helps. I couldn't see why it was required, but the instructions do really explain its purpose.
 

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So I've "test wired" everything up and so far, the TACH & VOLTS are the only gauges working (measuring correctly that is)...they all power up fine. The SPEEDO is not seeing a signal (I opted for the electric, run off speed sensor, not the GPS version) When I "drive to speed" to calibrate is returns "no signal". The FUEL LEVEL is floating all over the place, slowly. Keep in mind I don't have any of the original gauge stuff still installed. Except for the case and circuit board on the back.

Here's how I wired:
SPEED: Signal to "109" on D-05, Ground to "64" on D-04.
FUEL LEVEL: Signal to "62" on D-04, Ground to "110" on D-05.

Any ideas?

Edit: Added pics for clarity, D-04 and D-05 are the top two plugs of the cluster.
286253
286254
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Not sure about the speedometer. For fuel gauge, I wired all 3 wires and then did manual learning. I think the bolts that hold the motors works with the after market gauges. Just have to program them. I do have problem with fuel gauge if I'm low on fuel though. The hand goes to 1/4 and empty back and forth sometimes staying on E but that's the only problem I have and when I fill the car up to 1/2 and more, it stays Normal. No choice since that's the only way to get the gauge as close to factory fuel level as I can.

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OK, thanks for the info.
Took everything out to clean up wires and noticed I had the speedo and Fuel wires reversed.:rolleyes:
So I still think my wiring might be ok...weather turned here so I can't test it. I programed the fuel level to the closest "pre-set" which was (90 ohms empty - 0 ohms Full) Ours is (110-3). Won;t know it that or the speedo work until I can drive it again.
On a side note, I noticed the needle on the Speedo isn;t as bright as the others, so I may be testing SpeedHut customer service shortly...

Forgot to ask you - Where did you find the brighter EI converter? I think I want that...yours look way better.
 

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Speedhut repaired my speedo, got it back yesterday. Installed everything today. Turned out good, just need to test/calibrate speedo when it gets a little warmer. Fuel gauge seems to work normally, and all lights do too except for the ECS lights for some reason. I do have the Renegade Techwerks controller, so I'm not sure if that's related (doubt it). Luckily I put in the (4) big LEDS with that kit so I really don't need them anyway.
These look so good I need to rethink other gauges. All the others are Prosport, but a mix of Premium and Performance line. So I now have (3) different "white" gauges. I also wired the Speedhuts to always be backlit.
 

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