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Some shmo with N20...
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Discussion Starter #1
Well im sure its not a NEW idea per se....

But I just had a physics revelation...

The idea of attaching a cone air filter to your "extended MAS" (like in the "Stealth Air" Technique) kinda defeats the purpose.

Think about it... When you have a short straw, isnt it a lot easier to suck air than through a significantly longer straw? So why would this principle change for an engine? Wouldnt it be harder for an engine to breathe air, no matter how cold, through a LONG ASS intake tube than the shorter stock one?

So if the idea is relocating the air without adding distance the engine has to suck, why not try to just "move the cold air" there as opposed to trying to suck it in from the outside?

How about just drilling a hole in your airbox and attaching a tube (as short as possible) from the hole to an open area around the engine? (eg in front of the transmission or the holes on the side of the front bumper). This way, the main source of air (the stock airbox hole) isnt being eliminated. Air is still right there on demand, not needing to be sucked from 90898098 miles away, but the cold air will still be coming in from the outside...

Good idea? Do I have any idea what im fuc*ing talking about?

Neep responses/opinions so i can get to work on a project... Thanks.
 

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Some shmo with N20...
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820 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
?

No comments on this?

Comon I'm dying to know!!!!
 

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The Blank Man
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1,161 Posts
Airbox

I think the "stealth ram air" is just making another restrictive airbox. The force isn't going to compress the air. Probably the easiest way would be to make an underscoop to draw in air from below the car and blow it up inside the engine, therefore getting more air to the filter.

On another note, if you have actual ram air, what keeps water from getting in the engine, say if it's raining?
 

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Premium Member
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you can run a tube from the side intercooler space to the air filter via the hole in the side wall where the wire harness goes to the fuse box..i know cause i had it on my car for 8 mos.. repainted the bumper and never put it back on.. realy fucks up your fipk too.. if you have ABS, never mind.. if you dont.. drop me an email ill try to explain further.
 

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Me Tarzan..u Jane
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well the whole thing with the relocation of the filter to somewhere in an opening in the bumper is to force air into the intake. As you go faster the engine doesnt have to pull air in it is forced in by the car moving.
 

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what would be the difference if you just put one end of a tube hooked on to the hole next to the fog light and run it up next to the intake, then the engine is still sucking air through the same length and the outside colder air is still hitting right on the intake, like lets say a hks smf (which is what i have) then there is more air hitting it and its colder wouldnt that work? i mean its working with all your arguments
 

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Some shmo with N20...
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820 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yup

what would be the difference if you just put one end of a tube hooked on to the hole next to the fog light and run it up next to the intake, then the engine is still sucking air through the same length and the outside colder air is still hitting right on the intake, like lets say a hks smf (which is what i have) then there is more air hitting it and its colder wouldnt that work? i mean its working with all your arguments
Thats pretty much exactly what i was talking about. THe reason i said to attach the tube to the airbox in the first place is cuz of the physics... The engine will still suck air through the stock air box hole because the pressure is less (sucking-wise). The tube attached to the hole you drill will simply be getting cold air in from the outside (due to the ramming effect you get from driving forward). I think im just going to do the stealth air technique as i had originally planned. Im going to get a second filter on the drivers side though. Not positive how, but i will. Put grills on the front, and vuala. Wish me luck :-D
 

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Some shmo with N20...
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Discussion Starter #8
On another note, if you have actual ram air, what keeps water from getting in the engine, say if it's raining?
Wouldnt an aem valve do the trick? Theyre like 40 bucks... but itd be worth it.
 

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Yeah a couple of board member are working on a Cold Air Intake ( CAI ) incorporating the AEM Bypass Valve.;)
 

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Some shmo with N20...
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Discussion Starter #10
?

Whats so hard about putting it in though? Its so small and seems like it would be simple to incorporate...?

Also...

If i were to do the "stealth air" technique and split the tube before the MAS so another cone could go into the other intercooler duct thing (on the drivers side), would that add to or take away from the benefits of the location of the filters?
 

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yeah me and brian are trying to get a CAI done for our cars but its way harder than it seems. we are in the process of getting the pipe bent and we have the bypasses and the filters and the adapters for the mas. check out the post under parts for sale....."cold air intake"
 

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You guys are talking with very little experience it sounds like. The cold air intake is the best intake hands down. he best CAI on the market is AEM's. They obviously don't make one for our cars, but through the years I have found an easy way to build an intake that not only is as good but is actually tested by a friend to be a little bit better than AEM's on the DYNO. I've first installed it on my Honda Del Sol, but I now have it on my VR4. And about how you guys thought that longer tubes decreases air flow that is actually the opposite of the truth. To calculate the maximum airflow to the throttle body a lot of things must be taken into consideration, and to make things short and sweet a much longer tube than what is stock and 2" piping is the combination for peakairflow in a VR4 and 3000GT base considering your degrees in bends and where you actually run it to. If you want more information on how I did mine you can just E-mail me and I'll send you a post(it's for the honda though)
 
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