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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I guess I need a new clutch because when I push on the gas hard the RPM's go up faster than the car (clutch is slipping) not to mention the stupid thing doesn't engage until the pedal is almost all the way out. So any suggestions on what kind of clutch to get, how much it is going to cost etc. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

1994 VR4
K&N, HKS exhaust

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #3
centerforce dual friction?
Where can I order it and how much does it cost?
 

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stonerboy,
I had the same problem with the stock clutch and went with the centerforce DF...it was very good when I just had it installed but now is doing the same thing and the pedal is catching higher than it used to be...and sometimes I do feel it slip a little...like it's pulsating...GUYS, DONT GET IT!!!! not so good...I heard from VR4Tissimo that ACT's 6 puck clutch is a better application...(brian GT-pro). but seriously don't go with the Centerforce (it doesn't even come with the weights that they talk about anyway...and the pressure plate is a Daikin pressure plate (just as stock) but it's just painted with orange paint!!! e-mail me at [email protected] if you have further questions...DONT BUY iT!!!! I mean iT!!!
 

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You can get the centerforce from NOPI for around $430. The clutch depends on how much horsepower you want it to hold. The stocker slips slightly in the first place, but just get a clutch that matches your HP goal. Call some of the manufactures of the clutches and see what they have to stay. And then call some of the shops that work on our cars and see what they have to say...............corey
 
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Discussion Starter #7
RAY!! thanks for the advice. Where is the #10 lock nut located? Can you give me some more info. on doing that? I have noticed that it seems to slip only when it is cold and only at higher speeds (around 40 or 50 MPH and then only when I floor it). I have been really careful with it since I noticed it doing that. Actually I haven't even driven it so hopefully tightening that lock nut will fix the problem.
 

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The #10 lock nut he is talking about is on the shaft that goes through the firewall connected to you clutch pedal. You have to lay on your back on the floor board and look up at your clutch pedal. It is on the shaft closes to the pedal. Us a pair of pliers and loosen the nut. Use the pliers to turn the shave so it is shorter several turns. start out with probably 5 or more turns. tighten the nut back down. Re try you clutch and see if it still slips. Good luck. All this should only take a couple of minutes.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
If the problem is that you have too little free-play, the slippage will happen more likely when warm than when cold. In any case there is a pushrod attached from the lever of the clutch pedal going into the clutch master cylinder. This is accessable from an up-side down position under the dash. Loosening the lock nut on the pushrod will allow you to turn the forward part of the pushrod with screw threads adjusting it longer or shorter. Just a turn or two will be noticable in the free-play of the pedal. Too much free-play is better than none. come back.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the advice!!! So do you think that it would be better to just go with the stock clutch again or the 6 puck clutch.....do you know what the cost is on that? (I am a poor starving student) Thanks!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Be advised that if the clutch pedal push rod adjustment is too tight, there will be little freeplay when cold and no freeplay when the systems fluid gets warm. At this point, the throw-out bearing will be exerting a force approching disengagement of the pressure-plate. Add severe torque and the clutch will slip. If you havent already ruined the clutch by driving it this way, the solution may be as simple as loosening the # 10 lock nut and shortening the clutch push rod. When warm, one should have a half an inch free-play on the clutch pedal. You stated that "the stupid thing doesn't engage until the pedal is almost all the way out" This reiforces my position that the clutch pedal pushrod may be too long and the master cylinder is not reaching its home position where a valve releases all pressure on the slave cylinder. If the master cylinder does not return to this open system position the clutch will slip easier as the captured fluid in the system warms and expands.

[This message has been edited by Ray (edited December 13, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Ray (edited December 13, 1999).]
 

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Stonerboy, if you plan on using this car as a daily driver and staying under 500hp then you don't need the HD Pressure plate and 6-puck disc from ACT. It's a nice clutch for a car that is going to be pushing 500hp or more and going to be street/track but there are drawbacks to it. It could do more damage to your transmission if not driven properly. For your type of application it seems, the ACT is not going to be right for you (correct me if I'm wrong and you want monster grip and don't mind the pedal being a lot stiffer). The RPS turbo clutch amongst some others, seems they would be better for you. Hope this helps!

Mario 94 VR-4
 
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Discussion Starter #13
about the turbo clutch, I see on the website dynamicracing1.com that there are three diffent kinds, i.e stage I, stage II, and stage III. I don't plan on adding any other mods to my car so which one would be the best and what is the difference between the different stages? And how much should I expect to pay to have it installed? Thanks so much for everyones help!!!!!!
(I am going to try to tighten the #10 lock nut first before I change the clutch)
Todd (aka stonerboy)

[This message has been edited by stonerboy (edited December 13, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by stonerboy (edited December 13, 1999).]
 

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If you are not going to add any mods then perhaps you should stick with stock clutch. I think the dealership in my area has the pressure plate, disc and throw out bearing for $296.87 which is very good $.

Mario
 
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Discussion Starter #15
ok, I just adjusted the lock nut on the clutch and that seemed to do the trick. I think I turned the nut 4 times and it isn't slipping anymore with I floor it. The only question I have now is how much play should be in the clutch? With the adjustment I can push the clutch about 2 cm before an resistence from the springs. Is this normal? Before there was not any play in the clutch so the resistence was met as soon as I pushed the pedal in. Thanks for the input!!
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Cool ! One must have enough free-play to allow the master cylinder itself to return to its home position opening the internal relief valve so as there is no pressure on the slave cylinder and throw-out bearing. Now, do me a favor and check the feel of the clutch during left hand turns. See if the position of clutch engagement is consistent or lower, like mine, when turning left. Don't need much free-play in the pedal, but just need some always. Check after having driven for a while and everything is up to operating temperature. 2 cm sounds good.
 
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