Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Below I had listed 3 pictures and I need help removing both the parts pictured. The bolted strap at the top of the oil pan and also the oil pick up tube. I have taken off the bolts that would remove the part I am referring to but I am also wanting to know how to safely remove the gear seeing as that is the only thing keeping it on. Hopefully my questions are thorough enough to know what im talking about but this is the first engine Ive ever been inside so I am unfamiliar with most parts and pieces. Thank you in advance to those who comment, I will be using this info tomorrow to hopefully remove the listed parts.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
Not a whole lot you can do except use pry bars and hammer taps since these gears don't have any holes which a puller could screw into. Just keep prying away and keep turning the crank 180 degrees from where you pryed so you can slowly wiggle it back and forth till it comes off. Maybe use a hammer to loosen it up in 180 degree increments as well just be careful not to chip the teeth on the gear. If all else fails you should me able to take off all the rod and main caps and rear main seal and pull the crank out with the oil pump hanging off of it and hammer the whole thing off.
 

· 1994 Mit 3000gt VR4 6spd
Joined
·
1,485 Posts
I'm trying to think of a reason the crank sprocket wouldn't come off, but if the timing belt is off (which it is) then the sprocket should slide off. Unless somehow the key (like half circle) that sits on the end of the crank that the sprockets slides on, is messed up or something and won't let it slide off.

Also the oil pickup is attached to the oil pump so after you remove the 2 bolts the pickup comes off.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
727 Posts
The sprocket will be rusted on. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Soak it in some penetrating oil and then try getting it off gently with a lever in behind it. Be careful not to damage the oil pump housing or the backing plate on the sprocket which has the TDC mark on it.

If that doesn't work you can gently heat the sprocket with an oxyacetylene gas torch and remove it with big multigrips. If that doesn't work, there's enough room to drill & tap two m6 threads into the sprocket to attach a puller to.

Once the sprocket is off, the oil pump will come away from the block.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The sprocket will be rusted on. Doesn't happen often, but it does happen. Soak it in some penetrating oil and then try getting it off gently with a lever in behind it. Be careful not to damage the oil pump housing or the backing plate on the sprocket which has the TDC mark on it.

If that doesn't work you can gently heat the sprocket with an oxyacetylene gas torch and remove it with big multigrips. If that doesn't work, there's enough room to drill & tap two m6 threads into the sprocket to attach a puller to.

Once the sprocket is off, the oil pump will come away from the block.
Thank you all that commented. I will be trying everything that was suggested and I will be replying if none of that works! Thank you again
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top