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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Looking for the piece below that screws onto the shaft of the hydraulic actuator that lifts the tonneau cover up for the roof to be able to fold in and out of.
The original sheared off. The metal appears very porous and not very strong. If anyone has one, please let me know asap. I’m in Connecticut until Jan 11th and back to Cali after that. It’s my brother in law’s car here in CT and I can fix it for him if I can get my hands on the part. Did a search, but only came up with someone that had the same issue in 2005. He found the part on eBay from a guy named Gary, but that lead goes cold after 15 years. Sorry in advance for the large pictures, I’m doing this on an iPad and I’m a PC guy.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
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I think the chances of you getting another one is pretty slim. I would have someone draw it up in a CAD program and have it machined out of some billet aluminum. I have the CAD and 3D printing capability in house but unfortunately I don't have the time right now for a small project like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think the chances of you getting another one is pretty slim. I would have someone draw it up in a CAD program and have it machined out of some billet aluminum. I have the CAD and 3D printing capability in house but unfortunately I don't have the time right now for a small project like that.

I'm starting to realize that. I know AutoCad, but would have to learn a cad/cam program to draw it.
 

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I believe others have found suitable replacements here.... https://www.mcmaster.com/clevises
When mine broke, I was lucky to have friends who were Master Craftsman in metal working who made a pair in Stainless Steel for me.

Sorry, I don't have the dimensions nor thread sizes for you, but you should be able to get that solved with the pieces you have...

Good Luck,

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I believe others have found suitable replacements here.... https://www.mcmaster.com/clevises
When mine broke, I was lucky to have friends who were Master Craftsman in metal working who made a pair in Stainless Steel for me.

Sorry, I don't have the dimensions nor thread sizes for you, but you should be able to get that solved with the pieces you have...

Good Luck,

Bob.

Hey Bob,

This is incredibly helpful, I can definitely measure the one I have with a digital caliper and get as close as possible. I can get the thread size by taking the broken piece to home depot and screwing it down on the sizing bolts.

When I find the right one, I will post back with the sizes and model number.

Thanks Again!
Eric
 

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You are VERY welcome :)

I know how hard it is to get help (and parts) for our cars.

If you are not already a member, you can join our small gang at... https://groups.io/g/3000spyders/topics

I can personally reached at bstirling (at) yahoo.com (I hate the internet crap!)

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just
I have spares of all the hydraulics. Let me see if I can find it an spec it out as I've seen them on McMaster
I found what I think is a close match on McMaster and they (I ordered a spare) arrived today. It's Easy Adapt Clevis Rod End # 2447K17. Based on digital caliper measurements to the original, it should fit well. (3/8" - 24 Shank Thread, 1-9/16" Shank Center Length.)
 

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damn that Ohio Bob guy is good for something..........lol Happy New year!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Fit perfectly! Thanks all, now the only thing left is tracking down which sensor isn't engaging to close the rear quarter windows.
 

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From what I can recall, the last thing the rear quarters want to see is the tonneau latches close.
I would check to see if one or both has gotten out of alignment from the broken clevis.

Hope I'm right...

Bob.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Bob,

I think you are right and what I suspect as well. The driver side latch tilts too far towards the rear. I tried adjusting the latch with the cable adjustment where it connects to the tonneau cover lever. But that does not seem to have an effect. Is there another way to adjust the position of the latches?
 

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Any chance you can take a picture of both latches?
When my clevis broke, I marked the last thread below it to make sure I got (both) back in the same place.
Also, did you remember to put those strange bent washers back in? Not sure what they do, but they must be important or they wouldn't be there!

The mis-adjustment that I was talking about was the switch that senses that the latch is fully seated in the "lock"....

Pictures may help...

Bob.

EDIT:

After looking at your pictures up in the original post, I'm wondering about my statement about marking the threads.
Do the clevis's screw all the way down on the threads?
It's been several years since I've had this issue, and unfortunately for me, do to a ruptured achilles and subsequent surgery earlier this year, I have even driven my Spyder since I put it away 2 falls ago....so I'm a little hazy on the whole latch/switch geometry.

I'm gonna do a little digging in the Spyder specific manual to see if there are any specs for any of what your dealing with...

Bob.
 

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Any resolve to this?
I did some reading of the Spyder Manual, and while I found no specifics on replacing the clevis itself, in ALL the sections about roof repair, they always suggest running the Top Auto Config

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This is done using Jim's top tool and software.

Bob.

EDIT:

I DID NOT run the top auto config after replacing my clevis's (although I do have the tool and the software on a netbook).
BUT, my clevis's were (while they may have not had the exact same shape) the EXACT same dimensions of the originals.
 
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