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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone give me a link on this topic, ABS pump keeps running and what does HU mean? I searched but no good information on the ABS pump and the relay fix and other info regarding the same. Just a WIKI or a post link on this subject please. Thank you all. I don't know what HU stands for. What is it?
 

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copied my post in the other thread.

The ABS pump on most car is generally directly wired to a constant power source. The control unit is live when the car is keyed "live".

So, either the pump is bad or the relay which controls the power to the pump is(most likely of the two). Either pull the fuse and order a delete kit or replace the relay(not that pricey, cheaper than an ABS delete kit). I'd gander the relay failed.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where is the fuse so I can just take it out and will that stop the pump from just running?? I see many fuses but which one turns off that pump until I can get to the relay. Thank you Jason
 

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In the main fuse box under the hood, i dont know exactly which, hopefully your sticker on the cover is in good enough shape to find which one.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see three ABS fuses and 1 is a relay in that box. I cannot get the bottom 30 amp fuse to come out. I have pulled till its almost broken it. I cannot get it out while the other fuses come right out. The other 2 fuses dont make it stop running. I was giong to take a wire off the motor for now. Its a 30 amp yellow fuse in bottom left corner over the ABS area and that damn thing will not pull out of the 2 sockets, why?? all the other fusses pull right out, it is strange as hell this problem just started as I was going to replace the injector wiring today and a foglight and went to get a drink when it started. I cannot get to the relay at the pump. Its protected under this steel brace uner the front wheel passenger side and I see the motor and 3 bolts that may remove that protective cover but where is that relay that is probably the whole cause to this problem and what does it look like?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My experiences with hydraulic pumps are if it is cavitated with air it wont grab any fluid and continue to turn as it requires flooded suction. I am baffled to this. All these F'ing problems are coming out of nowhere. I have the car almost running perfect and now this. This happened once before but I disconnected the battery and reconnected it after a few minutes and it was off. Now several months later it does it again and this time wont stop so battery is disconnected and I have a TPS to replace and other stuff planned for this weekend. Damn this sucks. I know its either a cavitated pump, air in it, which I dont know how or it must be a stuck relay. I have not burned up anything at this point as I caught it right when the light came on. But I am so pissed at this car for giving me so much grief all at once too. If I can find the relay and just tap on it it may stop
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The part is made of steel coated rubber from the factory. It is not glued in. If I have to I will take it to small claims. I have tons of evidence and if I win you all will win too as it will be a documented case vr4god VS Getrag or Mitsubishi or whatever the judge awards, cant use a lawyer only for legal assistance and they say I have a case due to the amount of money lost, cheaper to go small claims up to $5000. But I am not letting them get away with it and somebody must fight, this was a new reman Mits Tranny bought 2 years ago if that from an authorized dealer. Number 4. The other 2 were warranty returns. All I have is gain and a $30.00 filing fee in my jurisdiction. Oooops I was going to stay quiet. Talk to you later Chris. I bought those parts you advised also Chris, thank you.

My early Xmas presents and I fixed my cut out problem last night on car and was up till 10am today. It seems it was a TPS and bad front injector pigtails and cracked wiring . Did alot of soldering. After 3 years I am still ready for it to cut out again. Its not a fuel cut but a full power cut. Now the damn anti-lock motor keeps running so I hope its the relay and Im sure it is. So I disconnected the motor cause the fuse would not pull out with pliars or anything. Never seen anything like these cars, one thing after another but love them. Hey I'm becoming quite the mechanic and do alot of reading on how and thank you to all the members here. This is a great bunch of people here. Now I'm fixing my 84 Chevy Silverado, that's a damn nice custom built truck, blood red/black 3 stage custom painted with 35" brand new all terrains on it to. Only 140,000 on a 350. Just lost spark and had it analyzed and its a pick up coil or the plastic part, ignition module only and then register the plates and its done. A must have in the snow. We have at least 15" here minimum. I want to move to Phoenix. LOL. You all take care and thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just so everyone knows that fuse is screwed in. Damn I almost broke it trying to get it out and ended up disconnecting the motor. THE ABS FUSE THAT YOU NEED TO PULL IF YOUR RELAY IS STICKING OR PUMP WONT SHUT OFF IS SCREWED IN. THE SCREW IS ON THE SIDE. Nobody on here mentions that. Thanks to a msg I was just PM'd told me about it.
 

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I had the same problem and I found this thread. You have to pull out the fuse first ( the bottom angle yellow one on the left) which has screw on the lower part. Don't pull it, you need to unscrew it first or else you will break it ( yes, I did break it a bit).
286243


Then go under right fender, you might need to pull you wheel off to get better access. Remove the cover and go to under the ABS unit. Remove relay the one that near you. The picture below is someone else photos, I cannot remember where it is. I forgot to bookmark it and I cannot find where did I got it from.

286244


I replaced the ABS motor relay and the problem solved.
 
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