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Aussie Bloke
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929 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys,
There heaps of info around about the best way to get power out of our cars.
Is there something similar for handling ?
Or for racing in general..
ie: something like this....

Year 1
Race Lessons
Track Time
Weight reduction (25kg) ($0)
 Trunk Spare Wheel Cover (3.6)
 Privacy Curtain (2.5)
 Spare Wheel (14)
 Plastic trays in trunk (2.2)
 Floor mats (2.5)
Tires – Pressure and Tread..
Wheel alignment.
Brake Fluid – flush and replace with RBF600

Year 2
Race lessons
Track Time
Stage 1 engine mods.
 Boost Controller
 Intake
 Exhaust
Tires – Soft Street
Brake Pads – upgrade
Brake lines – Stainless Steel
Sway & Strut bars Front and rear.
Weight Reduction - AWS delete ?...

Year 3
Race lessons
Track Time
Suspension – Coil Overs
Tires – R-Comp (R Spec)
Horsepower increase (Injectors, Boost, etc)
Weight Reduction... Seats,...

Year 4
Brake upgrade
Turbo Upgrade
Weight Reduction ??

Year 5
Limited Slip Front, Center and Rear diffs ?
Weight Reduction

If there isn't anything like this, would someone like to create one ?
I'm trying to get faster lap times, and wondering what mod I should do next... And I'll bet I'm not the only one..

Thanks
 

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475 Posts
1) Driver mod
2) Correct Tire Pressure
;)

The rest really depends on what your car is doing. Are you under steering or over steering? For autocross I wouldn't worry about too much power until your handling stuff is out of the way.

Boost controller and stuff like that is easy, cheap, and will give you alot more power to play with in the mean time :D but I wouldnt step things up too much until you know your car handles right. Thats why miatas and such can get such good times out there.

Check this link out:
Tire Tech Information - Air Pressure for Competition Tires
to make your car more neautral. Coilovers will be your best investment, especially if you do it right with the camber arms and everything. From there id go to the right sway bar, maybe strut bars.

After that id work on power, and you can check out the upgrade bible for that on the wiki pages
 

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<3's lapping days
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3,275 Posts
Get some performance STREET tires. Race on these for a year before getting competition tires. You will learn how to drive your car. I have been autocrossing at the same place for 6 years and there are still dozens of guys that are much better drivers than me. The car will only be as good as the driver.

With that said, supension and tire upgrades will take the biggest chunk of time off the clock. You said you are going to try R compounds 245/45/17. If you have a 9" wide wheel, i suggest 275/40/17 width tires. A wider tire means more contact with the road, period. On tarmac there is nothing that will make a larger difference with grip and going faster around turns than this. A rear sway bar is a really good upgrade, as is a front sway bar, but good luck finding a set for the turbo cars now... Saner hasnt made them for years. Quality strut bars make a difference, but it is not as noticeable as sway bars. I suggest the TEC strut bars, simply because there isnt a beefier strut bar on the market.

If your car still has good working ECS struts, they are decent, even with stock springs. I know a guy that has stock struts and springs and he does very well on open lapping days on road courses. Tein or Intrax lowering springs MIGHT be worth .5-.75 seconds over a 60 second course, over stock.

A downpipe and free flowing exhaust has proven to be worth lots of extra horsepower. I would say at least get a downpipe.

Hope all this helps, there is so much more than what anyone can tell you in 10 minutes on the internet. I suggest getting a good book on driving.

http://http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dus-stripbooks-tree&field-keywords=autocross

Any of these books would open your eyes to how complicated a 45 second run can be. I personally own the 4th book down in that list. Its from 1990 but is still 100% valid considering todays racing.
 

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Aussie Bloke
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929 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys,
I've done the Stage 1 power mods, have 'performance' street tyres (sumitomo HTRZ III) and have lowered heavy duty springs. I'm doing a kind of racing somewhere between autocross and road course.. I suppose you'd call it a very tight road course.. I've previously done rally driving in RWD car with no where near as much power (or weight) as the GTO so it is a learning curve.. I can't afford coil-overs right now, so I think I'll go for the strut bars next..
The original question was wondering if anyone had done a list like the one for stage 1-3 power mods, so I'm guessing the answer is no..
Perhaps I'll write one up once I start winning races :)
 

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4,515 Posts
Why would lightening the car as much as possible be stage 2? You could easily segregate mods from free to somewhat pricey to very pricey. Coilovers (good ones at least) would be in the pricey to very pricey range. Weight reduction goes into the free category. Take out anything you don't need to run. Start with everything that isn't bolted down and then move on to things that are bolted down that you don't need.

Weight loss is always beneficial, as are good tires, but as has been mentioned, improving the driver will maximize the performance regardless of WHAT setup/stage you have. I've outrun Firebirds and TransAms on track with a VW Golf. Pain in the butt watching them pull away like you're in reverse when they hit a straight, then have to reel them in turn by turn, but it's a lot more satisfying knowing that you outran a faster car. Likewise, I've outrun 911 Turbos and Vipers and ran down an 11.xx 3/S in my BPU 3/S that ran a 13.9 at the time. Improve your skill.

Running with street tires will help with improving your skill because you can't 'cheat'. You have to run the right lines to carry as much speed as you can, which is why it's sometimes a good idea to begin HPDE's with an underpowered car. You can't use the car's HP to catch and run down other drivers, you need to focus on technique to be as fast as possible simply because your CAR isn't fast.


Max
 

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ALL Wheel Drifter
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725 Posts

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1,274 Posts
I agree with the TEC bars. Simply the best even though they are expensive. The design is the reason. They WORK.

If lightening the car, look to lighten things high-up so you actually lower the center of gravity.

Lower the car 1 - 1.5 inches. Really aids control and transition.

Wheels ---> tires, then sway bars.

Most beginners (myself included) don't need power upgrades till they have maxed their times and learned every aspect of their car after the suspension has been sorted out.
 

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Aussie Bloke
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929 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes I'm not that keen on the Sumitomos either but they saved me $800 over the others.. I'll have a look again when I wear them out..

regarding weight loss, yes some of it should definiely be in stage 1.. i.e. remove everything in the trunk...
and some in stage 3+.. i.e. carbon fibre drive shaft....

regarding 275 width tires, can these fit under the guards ? If so what offset rims do I need to do it ?
 

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Aussie Bloke
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929 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
For the sake of this thread can we assume that anyone considering racing mods knows that they need to improve their driving skills, hell Michael Schumacher probably would like to improve his driving skills, but I'll bet he'd also like a faster car...
 

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Yes I'm not that keen on the Sumitomos either but they saved me $800 over the others.. I'll have a look again when I wear them out..

regarding weight loss, yes some of it should definiely be in stage 1.. i.e. remove everything in the trunk...
and some in stage 3+.. i.e. carbon fibre drive shaft....

regarding 275 width tires, can these fit under the guards ? If so what offset rims do I need to do it ?
Depends on your other mods. What wheels will you run? On my 93 VR4 with stock rims I ran 275x40-17s for autocross with no issues. Really depends on what suspension mods you're planning.
 

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For the sake of this thread can we assume that anyone considering racing mods knows that they need to improve their driving skills, hell Michael Schumacher probably would like to improve his driving skills, but I'll bet he'd also like a faster car...
Hey, for the sake of this thread can we assume that everyone knows the basics of driving. WestAusGTO does not realize there are individuals that want to spend money to go faster when skill can accomplish the same endpoint.
 

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Aussie Bloke
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929 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Hey, for the sake of this thread can we assume that everyone knows the basics of driving. WestAusGTO does not realize there are individuals that want to spend money to go faster when skill can accomplish the same endpoint.
Point taken.. perhaps each stage should include.

Stage 1) basic racing course
2 hours of track time
Stage 2) advanced racing course
10 hours of track time..

Something like that ???
 

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Aussie Bloke
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929 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Depends on your other mods. What wheels will you run? On my 93 VR4 with stock rims I ran 275x40-17s for autocross with no issues. Really depends on what suspension mods you're planning.
I'm currently running 18 x 8.5 but will probably go to 17 x 9 rims simply because the 17" tires are a hell of a lot cheaper.. So if I'm getting Rims and Tires for racing I would like them as wide as possible... But I'm on a tiny budget (aka married with kids)..
 

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Consider how crazy you want to go before deciding on wheels. If you decide to make some serious power and/or run fast circuits with r-comp tires, you could need some serious brake upgrades and they may not fit under 17" wheels. That was the reason I ended up with 18" wheels, even though 17" tires are much cheaper and available in a wider selection. No 17" wheels that I'd found could fit over the Stoptech 355mm kit.


Max
 

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1,274 Posts
Point taken.. perhaps each stage should include.

Stage 1) basic racing course
2 hours of track time
Stage 2) advanced racing course
10 hours of track time..

Something like that ???
I remember back to my first ever autocross. It was at a Porsche club event. With just the larger tires and ham-handed driving I finished mid pack over all. Surprising and rewarding. More importantly than that was how much fun it was, not even caring what the other cars' times were, just was I improving my times.

Hell, just make sure you have decent tires and brakes and then go to as many autocross events as possible. Make sure, if offered, you have an instructor ride with you a couple of time at each event and even let them drive your car while you ride along. Learn the basic characteristics of your car. Get them down solid. Then as you reach the car's limits you can add suspension goodies a little at a time.
 

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Advanced Tech?
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5,512 Posts
Consider how crazy you want to go before deciding on wheels. If you decide to make some serious power and/or run fast circuits with r-comp tires, you could need some serious brake upgrades and they may not fit under 17" wheels. That was the reason I ended up with 18" wheels, even though 17" tires are much cheaper and available in a wider selection. No 17" wheels that I'd found could fit over the Stoptech 355mm kit.


Max
do the brakes hit the spokes or the actual barrel itself?
 

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Street Modified Godfather
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157 Posts
The best starting mod for a 3S for any autocrosser that wants to win at any level above the local marque club is a 2005 C5 ZO6 Corvette.

Autocrossing a 3S is like entering a cow in the Kentucky Derby. Yes, you can do it - but why?

DG
 
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