I've switched away from Mobil1 as well and am now running Pennzoil Platinum as I've seen quite a few blackstone sheets like yours after running Mobil1.
Mobil 1 Blackstone analysis... You might want to see this.
I've always felt Mobil 1 went downhill pretty quick... Here's a Blackstone chart (I know you guys love this stuff
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Left is Shell Rotella-T @ 8100 miles, second column is the avg., and the third column is Mobil 1 @ 2600 miles.
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Pretty safe to say I'm going to stop wasting money on Mobil 1.
They really need to get their shit together before they lose a crapload of customers, 'cause more and more people are finding out about how much their oil's deteriorated in quality over the years. Definitely not worth the money IMO.
)Left is Shell Rotella-T @ 8100 miles, second column is the avg., and the third column is Mobil 1 @ 2600 miles.
Pretty safe to say I'm going to stop wasting money on Mobil 1.
They really need to get their shit together before they lose a crapload of customers, 'cause more and more people are finding out about how much their oil's deteriorated in quality over the years. Definitely not worth the money IMO.
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This interesting I will need to start looking at more info and possibly a new oil brand.... Royal purple maybe?? I was thinking of throwing in some 10w40 RP.... should be better than Mobil1 I am going to stop wasting money, They need to get their shit together!
That's awesome, Rotella T is what I run. I've had some guys laugh, "That's truck oil".
Nice Moly number on the Shell. Good shit.
Nice Moly number on the Shell. Good shit.
What weight and do you run? synthetic or conv? People please include that info, thanks a lot!That's awesome, Rotella T is what I run. I've had some guys laugh, "That's truck oil".
Nice Moly number on the Shell. Good shit.
RP for the win!This interesting I will need to start looking at more info and possibly a new oil brand.... Royal purple maybe?? I was thinking of throwing in some 10w40 RP.... should be better than Mobil1 I am going to stop wasting money, They need to get their shit together!
Ive actually ran the 15-40 Rotella stuff in my transmission. Worked well. I actually prefer to run 15-40 Commercial grade stuff that my dad gets for his business in my motor. FYI the government has mandated that oil companies make changes to their oils, so that they perform differently...not better. One of the ingredients that they have to lower is Sulfur. Old cars rely on Sulfur to act as a stable detergent and to absorb carbon(if im correct). Muscle car guys are pissed about this because their cars depend on it for proper lubrication. Anyways these mandates havent been put in place for Diesel trucks...hence 15w-40 for diesels is still as strong as ever.
Running a 15 as a lower number is not a real good idea in the winter. Most damage happens when you first start your car on a cold morning (for most people -except folks like Chris that run all out at the track and in his case he needs God as his co-pilot).
The 0w motor oils are better for cold weather operation. Oil is all about flow not pressure. On my performance cars I change the oil about every 1500 miles (cheap insurance). I run RP 0w-40w on the street and racing oil (RP at the track). For sure the higher the zinc content the more protection you have related to bearing stress/load. Remember on dino oil you start with the lighter weight and add additives to it so that it flows like the upper number at 212F (these get used up over time). On synthetic you start with the higher number as a base because it does not thin out nearly as much when hot.
From the research I have done pretty much nothing out there beats RP related to "Film Strenght" and "Extended Life" It costs more for sure but I believe it is worth it....my 2 cents on this subject only...
The 0w motor oils are better for cold weather operation. Oil is all about flow not pressure. On my performance cars I change the oil about every 1500 miles (cheap insurance). I run RP 0w-40w on the street and racing oil (RP at the track). For sure the higher the zinc content the more protection you have related to bearing stress/load. Remember on dino oil you start with the lighter weight and add additives to it so that it flows like the upper number at 212F (these get used up over time). On synthetic you start with the higher number as a base because it does not thin out nearly as much when hot.
From the research I have done pretty much nothing out there beats RP related to "Film Strenght" and "Extended Life" It costs more for sure but I believe it is worth it....my 2 cents on this subject only...
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