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Lose .2 in the 1/4 for $2

963 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  YOGURT!
Ok so it might be more in some cars or less in others. But this has been proven to work. One way is to remove your alt. belt during the runs. This way is a pain in the ass. So I hooked up a toggle switch to the remote lead on the alt. The one that is used to ecite the energy field. Simply break the circuit and you have a unrestricted pulley. Connect the circuit and you have a load on the alt. Just don't forget to switch it back on immediatly after the run.

I picked up an average of .3 in the 1/4 over 5 runs.

WD
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Cheaper than a UDP.
The altenator generates electric power for the car right ?
Yea, and I think I need a new one. My car isn't starting sometimes, and when it is running, if my foot isn't pressing the gas, my lights are dim (at night), but when I hit the gas they brighten up. Also when I use my turn signals my battery guage goes all crazy. I'm guessing it's either the altenator or the underdrive pulley
esc, that's the underdrive pulley working for you.

WD, do you have some before/after timeslips? i personally ran my car without power steering for about 3 weeks and didn't notice any gain in power at all. i highly doubt that you will lose .3 without a belt, which is very important to make your car run right!! i'm surprised that your car didn't die on you when you were running on the battery!!

oh, and just because the electrical power to the alternator is disconnected, the belt is still turning the alternator and the A/C pump!!!
unclesam099 said:
esc, that's the underdrive pulley working for you.

WD, do you have some before/after timeslips? i personally ran my car without power steering for about 3 weeks and didn't notice any gain in power at all. i highly doubt that you will lose .3 without a belt, which is very important to make your car run right!! i'm surprised that your car didn't die on you when you were running on the battery!!

oh, and just because the electrical power to the alternator is disconnected, the belt is still turning the alternator and the A/C pump!!!
The drag on the engine is SIGNIFICANTLY less when the A/C clutch is disengaged and when the alternator has no load.
The alt belt went out on my car before and it run for 3 days before the battery died, then I got a new battery and it lasted 2 or 3 days also before it died then I realized the belt was broken hehe.
With no load on the Alt it just becomes an idler pulley. I know it seems hard to believe that you can get gains from a pulley. But I did. I know it and my friends know it. I just figured I'd pass on the info.

The battery will last one 1/4 blast at a time. Unless you have a bad battery.

Try it or no, your decision. The more simple mods you do now will increase your performance in the end. Besides what is $2 and 10 mins of your time.

Another thing, your not going to notice .2 0r .3 in the 1/4. You'll only see the diff in the time.

WD
so what am I looking for???

This sounds like a cool idea for the dragstrip:D

What exactly am I looking for on the alternator? Red wire? how big? where to cut?
Im really interested could you give instructions? I dont have a shop manual.
thanks alot,
Brandon;)
Isn't there a relay for the alternator? Maybe you could tap into the supply side for that, and attach the switch??
It is not advised to go cutting large gauge wires and tapping in long thin wires with switches. That will cause problems.

Ken
On my car there is a remote wire used to create the electic field. I just installed my toggle switch there. Don't cut the big red wire...lol. Relay???yes there might be one. Not sure. Sounds like easy enough to locate though.

WD
What about the alternator fuse? Would that work? I'm not an electrician so its highly possible that I'm wrong.
cool, if i had .2 on sunday i woulda ran 15 flat.. :mad:
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