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Lost Soul
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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so i drove my car for about 10 minutes today and I stopped to check my coolant/oil level and my car ticks badly. I never knew how bad lifters sounded. Maybe I didn't drive it long enough for it to get warm and get silent like it used too but I don't know and I for sure know I don't like this noise.

I run 10w30 Mobil1 tri-synthetic too.

-Jeff
 

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Wild & Wacky Meerkat
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1,599 Posts
CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....
CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....
CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....
CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....CLACKETY....



:D :D :D

Well, did you just change the oil Jeff?

What brought about this change of behavior that started the lifter tick?

There are a few methods of removing tick if you do a search... The WickedDrew approach seems to work well. As does the OhioBob method.

might wanna switch to dead dino juice. Your wallet will thank you for it. :D

E
 

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heh my car ticks a lot everyday when I drive.... When I start the car in the morning there's no tick.... like about 3 or 4 mins later it started to tick..... tic tic tic tic tic tic tic...... ..... ....... neverending tick./......... I guess there's no harm in it... I think before it doesn't tick until I put mobil synthetic 10 w 30....
gonna try new brand next time..
 

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Grrr, baby, grrr
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Elmo said:
As does the OhioBob method.

The last time I had a girl over, she did the OhioBob method to me. She just kept on Bobbin'.
 

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Dog Is My Co-Pilot
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akira410 said:
The last time I had a girl over, she did the OhioBob method to me. She just kept on Bobbin'.
Better a Bobbin' than a Bobbitt!!! :eek:
 

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i use the juice made by guys in white lab coats and my car is quieter than it was with dino juice. i still gotta run sea foam in the oil.
 

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I used to haev the same lifter tick problem. Getting all lifters replaced only got rid of the tics for a few days. After that the ticking came back with a vengeance. This is usually caused by mineral buildup by the lifters. Fortunately lifter tick is not hazardous to the motor and doesn't affect driveability. At least it shouldn't. I used a method that a friend of mine from DSM provided me with. The DSM people also suffer from the same lifter tick problem we do. F*ckin Mitsubishi. I DO NOT suggest this for everyone. It hasn't been proven to work 100%. A lot of people who have used these methods have been successful but there's no proof on paper. I'm giving you guys 3 links with 3 different solutions. I got creative and combined a few steps from each and managed to lower the volume of ticking. It used to be obnoxiously loud and now it is pretty tolerable. It's been 2 months so far and it hasn't gotten any louder. Read the methods carefully even though they sound simple. One of the methods involves flowing transmission fluid through the vaccuum hose into the engine while maintaining 3500 to 4000 rpm. I avoided this methos because if not done exactly right , it can cause serious damage to the motor. Some very experienced people have been quite successful with this though.

Here are the links:


http://www.dsm.org/archives/1996/04/19960404.txt/18.html

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1998/01/19980120.txt/36.html

http://www.dsm.org/archives/2000/12/20001227.txt/19.html

Hope this works for you guys
 

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Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
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8-}

akira410 said:


The last time I had a girl over, she did the OhioBob method to me. She just kept on Bobbin'.
Bob, Bob, Bob.

Bob.:)
 

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They replaced my lifters with OEM lifters. It wasn't the lifters that was the problem though. I just had a ton of solid mineral buildup that was causing the ticking and lifter hang. Those bastards at Mitsubishi just wanted to rip my wallet. Using engine flush with a few other fluids reduced the ticking noticeably. As I drained my oil , there were solid chunks coming out. (not a very comforting thing to see) The only reason I didn't get rid of it completely was because I ran the flush for 5 min instead of 10. Again this depends on what flush one uses. When I do my next oil change , and another flush , I should have the ticking gone. Plus my car is a daily driver and I do a lot of driving.....so it's bound to go through some shit. :D :D
 

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Lost Soul
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Discussion Starter #14
Whats a good flush to use?

-Jeff
 

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if you read the solid lifter thread from 99missile you would have seen we use the same part # as the DOHC DSM guys. so its expected they would have the same problem....we just have more of em to listen too.
 

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A lot of people recommended Pyroil Engine Flush. Unfortunately no stores in my area had it. I think I used STP flush. I know it came in a blue bottle with red writing. And that worked well for me. The first thing I did for my car was add one container of Marvel Mystery Oil to the engine and drove the car for a couple days to let it sink in and start breaking down the mineral buildups. At least that's what I was told it was supposed to do. After those two days I added the motor flush and kept my car at 2500 rpm for about 5 minutes. Drained the oil and quite a few chunks. After adding the new oil I put in one container of RESTORE engine restore (comes in a silver cylindrical container). All this does is provide a little extra lubrication for the motor.
 

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i used mobil 1 synthetic for the longest time and i had the annoying lifter tick. i put in ATF for 1000 miles, and then used gunk engine flush and switched to castrol gtx 10w-30 conventional oil. now the ticking is completely gone. i highly recommend that oil to everyone with a 3s.
 

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at about 40K on my vr4, ticking was HORRIBLE!!!

so I ran Gunk Engine Flush for about 5 mins at idle
then i drained and put in a mitsu filter, 1qt rislone, and castrol gtx 10w-40
tick is gone - its been about 1500 miles
it occasionally ticks now, but one more application of rislone I am certain will fix it.

i too definetly recommend castrol
 
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