Kansas City MO

Well, I'll drive somewhere or whatever. You know, assuming the car runs. Any recommendations on getting things figured out or fixed? Preferred shops, vendors, dealers, ... I already have 4 times the hours working on it than I do driving it. The guy who sold me this is still very helpful and knowledgeable but these cars seem to need more than one local expert. };-)

I've made a post about the fuel gauge. http://www.3si.org/forum/f12/fuel-gauge-682393/

Some other things are more concerning. Shifts like crap (synchros redone not long ago, replaced fluid 2 weeks ago), lots of backfiring at high rpm's and sputtering at low, and a slight mist of oil in the turbos after several hours of driving (not much if any smoke). GT368SX's, rebuild (has ball bearings?) or replace? If replace, with what?

:nopity:

I'm resisting sending up all my signal flares at once. It probably sounds worse than it is ... wait, did I say that the opposite of what I meant.

Love the car though, they are lookers.

AnotherMike said:

Well, I'll drive somewhere or whatever. You know, assuming the car runs. Any recommendations on getting things figured out or fixed? Preferred shops, vendors, dealers, ... I already have 4 times the hours working on it than I do driving it. The guy who sold me this is still very helpful and knowledgeable but these cars seem to need more than one local expert. };-)

I've made a post about the fuel gauge. http://www.3si.org/forum/f12/fuel-gauge-682393/

Some other things are more concerning. Shifts like crap (synchros redone not long ago, replaced fluid 2 weeks ago), lots of backfiring at high rpm's and sputtering at low, and a slight mist of oil in the turbos after several hours of driving (not much if any smoke). GT368SX's, rebuild (has ball bearings?) or replace? If replace, with what?

:nopity:

I'm resisting sending up all my signal flares at once. It probably sounds worse than it is ... wait, did I say that the opposite of what I meant.

Love the car though, they are lookers.

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I replied to your thread so you can check a few things. It seems like the wiring is the issue. I assume you haven't messed with the gauge cluster. Sometimes the voltage can get messed up there causing issues. I'd have to dig out the service manual to check into it further.

There's nowhere close for you to take your car to. Most shops won't touch these cars. The ones that will have no idea how to work on them and usually mess things up. It's sad but true. I hope you're good at turning a wrench. If not, this car will make you a mechanic.

If you want to send your car somewhere I would recommend either Dynamic Racing or Pampena Motorsports. I'm not sure if Ray Pampena is taking on much work at the moment. Both shops are a long distance away.

As far as good vendors to buy parts here's a good list not in any order of preference:

Dynamic Racing
Pampena Motorsports
3SX Performance Automotive - Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Parts & Service
Maximal Performance - Street - Strip - Track - Homepage
Ninja Performance - Affordable Performance Auto Parts
Supercar-Engineering.com - Dodge Stealth & Mitsubishi 3000GT Performance

I may be forgetting some but that's a good list of places to shop at. Oh and if you need OEM parts check out Cherry Hill Triplex: MitsParts.com | "Mitsubishi Parts" | "Mitsubishi Accessories". They give about 30% off on parts so it's the cheapest place to get dealer parts you need that are original.

I usually spend half the time working on my car and half driving but that's by choice because I enjoy tinkering on it. I never stay with a setup for too long out of boredom. Lol. Sometimes these cars really like jackstands when you don't throw money at them.

Your transmission may need a rebuild. If the synchros were replaced not too long ago and it shifted good at first, then you probably need to adjust your clutch. I bet it's dragging or you're having some problems with the hydraulic system. Here's some good reading: Clutch Drag Kills Synchros! ? Jacks Transmissions. Also, a how to video: Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube. Don't skip it you need to do this anytime a new clutch goes in or periodically after it wears.

You may also want to check your shifter cables in the engine bay. Make sure the counterweight on the 6-speed isn't hitting your piping. You don't want excessive play in the shifter cables either so check the connections to the transmission. Also, pop off the shifter boot and take a look at the connections at the base. You can make some adjustments there if it isn't set right.

It may be that you have to rebuild your transmission. Parts aren't cheap. If you're already grinding I'm betting the dog teeth on the gears are worn. It's very hard to find good used gears. I'm still looking for some. New gears are expensive $250-450 each. You probably need a new slider also which is just as much as the gear. That doesn't include synchros. You can see how a rebuild can add up quickly to $2-3k. Hopefully you don't have to go this route. I can put you in touch with a guy in Parkville, MO that showed me what to look for on rebuilding these transmissions. He may take on a rebuild for a decent price if he has the time. If not, he'll show you what to look for and how to take it apart.

Your backfiring and sputtering sounds like some ignition related issues. This could be blown ecu caps, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack, PTU, or something else. I would check the ecu first since the 1st gens are notorious for leaking capacitors.

Which side is the oil in the turbos? The exhaust outlet, intake/compressor inlet, or compressor outlet? Depending on that you may need to rebuild the turbos. Finding parts for the 368s are going to be hard. I had a set of them on my car a few years ago. They were good turbos but I never pushed them past 18 psi. In the mid 20s they'll fly apart because the compressor wheel is oversized for the turbine causing a big imbalance.

I would recommend going with a newer tech turbo. What you decide it depends on your power goals. Your GT-368SX turbos have a TE04H turbine wheel which is comparable in size to the largest TD04 turbine wheel, the TD04HL. Unfortunately, they aren't interchangeable so you can't swap over the exhaust housings. You will need to buy another set and have them machined out for the bigger exhaust wheel. I recommend a TD04L hotside if you plan on pump gas levels and a TD04HL for anything above that to 30 psi. DR-650s for pump gas or pump + meth. DR-750s if you plan to run race gas or E-85. Both are bolt-on. There are some cheaper options so it depends on your power goals. Those will be the least hassle though you pay for it to.

Anytime you work on your car and take anything apart related to the vacuum or pressure side of the system you will want to pressure test to fix leaks. I guarantee there's probably some right now. http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=1287

AnotherMike said:

Nope, lol, not much of a mechanic. I'm starting to think I should buy a lift for my garage (only $2500) and part this thing out. The guy who had this before me maintained the heck out of it. Lots of upgrades too. I have a stack of receipts a foot or more thick.

I believe the oil is on the intake side (outside air in). Yes, the wrong side.

Is there transmission options? I like manual (it has a triple disk clutch) but automatic would be better in a race, particularly in these/this car.

I will be getting at the pump and clutch adjustment stuff this week. Actually going to Olathe where this guy lives this Saturday to look at some of this.

Thanks for the amazing reply, absolutely outstanding! Now I have to race 123Jerryboat over to Gary's. I'll race you in reverse! :muahaha:

Sounds like Gary and I will do fine. I'm 49, have been around those types a lot and love to hear them talk.

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Kind of odd it's on the intake side since you have no-maf pre-turbo pipes running speed density with AEM. You'd have to check the outlets going to the intercooler pipes to see if there's oil in there too. I imagine you're getting a little oil blow by from the seals appearing in the inlet side so it's probably on the outlet too. I would have said it could be from the pcv system but you don't have a crankcase hose going to the stock rubber bubble pre-turbo.

Do you know for sure which clutch you have? Eventually I was thinking about going with a twin or triple if I ever get that far time wise on a build. I'm debating more about sticking with 600-650AWHP that I've got, selling everything else, and getting a CTS-V to twin turbo. I miss the sound and feel of a V8 although I love these cars.

There are actually automatic options. The DSMs have similar internals to our automatic transmissions so some upgrades are interchangeable. I don't know as many details about them so you'd have to do some reading up. I do know you can get a JDM AWD non-turbo auto with transfercase and driveshaft yoke: 91 93 Mitsubishi 3000gt Dodge Stealth AWD 3 0L Automatic Transmission JDM 6g72 | eBay

$200 plus shipping and you have a transmission that bolts to our engines. You'd need some different axles. I can't remember which ones but it may be the non-turbo. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened so the yoke can be welded on they give you. You'll also need the shifter cables and shifter from an auto.

The transmission computer is optional. I would recommend ditching it for manual shifting. You want full line pressure to prevent slipping especially when getting on it. This box works well: ForcedFour.com. You shift using the buttons or what's really cool is you can hook it up to the horn buttons since there's one on each side of the steering wheel on 1st gens.

With full line pressure the transmission will handle 500AWHP all day long and survive. A guy ran 10s his first pass out with a stock auto on DR-650s running E85. Nobody else has been able to touch his times with a manual except for a few of the pros. The auto just works for straight line performance. Eventually, you may even invest in a shift kit and higher stall. If you break parts it's only a few hundred to buy everything vs $1500-2000 in upgrades for either 5 or 6 speed transmission plus another $1800+ each time you rebuild. I would go with an automatic if I could give up rowing gears. Maybe on a 2nd car more track oriented I will throw in an auto.

123jerryboat said:

Are there any 3S meets anywhere near the KC area? Seems like we may have enough people around to make something happen.

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There hasn't been for quite awhile. There used to be some here and there but anymore it seems like everyone is too busy. I'm sure something could be arranged. I haven't been to one yet but would love to meet some more people even if my car isn't running at the time. I should have it put back together in another month provided there's no other setbacks.

I uploaded the spec sheet. It is a bit old and needs to be updated but mostly accurate. It says Pitroad-M Triple Disk Clutch.

http://www.3si.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=162697&stc=1&d=1412657911

I've been reading a lot. It seems the transmissions in these things are nothing but trouble. I could race someone but I have to wait for the rpms to got down before shifting or double (or more) clutch. Actually, the latter doesn't work great. I sent an email to DR about their sequential shifter but that probably doesn't fix the synchro issue if I have one now or down the road. I want manual but I want to shift faster. The shifting box might be the nearly perfect blend.

I'd like the HP you have! I really want it in the 600's. But I also want world peace and to see a sasquatch. Probably should spend my money on something not going extinct but I do love AWD and mucho HP. Plus, the car is unique.

Anyone can also email me at mike dot darius dot 3 at gmail dot com. Maybe we can all get together and have a smash-em up derby. :ak47: :shoot1: