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Hello all just purchased a 98 VR4 Pearl white w/ tan with 94k unmolested other than aftermarket wheels it is bone stock! I have been looking for a 90's Supra but I could not pass this up. I want to put some money into this thing but want to keep it as close to stock as possible without completely killing the nostalgia and value of the vehicle. If you were going to spend about $2-3k on your VR4 what would you do? Mostly looking for some performance. Thank you for your input!
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Since it is such a nice car, keep it simple. Let me elaborate on the above suggestion.

1. Get a test pipe (~$50) to replace main cat. I would say gut the precats, but the car is so nice, i would just get the test pipe and keep the precats, although that is leaving some power on the table, you wont have to deal with a CEL or anything. This is a nice bump in power and sound. No need to replace the stock exhaust, it is not a restriction at modest power levels.

2. Get a nice downpipe. Not a ebay one, nothing that is the "F" shaped design like stock. You need one with a proper Y merged. 3sx is the best option currently on the market but i cant recall if its 1st or 2nd gen at the moment. Downpipe is also a power mod, negligible change in sound really.

3. Get a basic manual boost controler (or more fancy electronic) as mentioned. You will only be able to modestly increase boost on a stock car due to fuel limitations, but should net you a little power, especially combined with other mods. You will probably also want to install a real boost gauge at the same time.

4. Get a metal Y pipe to replace the stock plastic. This is more as preventative maintenance. Keep stock plastic (along with all other stock parts) incase you want to revert the car to 100% stock.

5. Get a nice drop in air filter assuming you have stock air box.

The car is so clean, i wouldnt really touch anything else, unless you are prepared to go down the rabbit hole.
 

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some components yes but by opening it up that would be to remove the restrictions such as the cats
 

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basically there is nothing else you can do performance wise that will not take you down the rabbit hole and also away from the stock aspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Since it is such a nice car, keep it simple. Let me elaborate on the above suggestion.

1. Get a test pipe (~$50) to replace main cat. I would say gut the precats, but the car is so nice, i would just get the test pipe and keep the precats, although that is leaving some power on the table, you wont have to deal with a CEL or anything. This is a nice bump in power and sound. No need to replace the stock exhaust, it is not a restriction at modest power levels.

I have to get emissions done will this void that?

2. Get a nice downpipe. Not a ebay one, nothing that is the "F" shaped design like stock. You need one with a proper Y merged. 3sx is the best option currently on the market but i cant recall if its 1st or 2nd gen at the moment. Downpipe is also a power mod, negligible change in sound really.

3. Get a basic manual boost controler (or more fancy electronic) as mentioned. You will only be able to modestly increase boost on a stock car due to fuel limitations, but should net you a little power, especially combined with other mods. You will probably also want to install a real boost gauge at the same time.

4. Get a metal Y pipe to replace the stock plastic. This is more as preventative maintenance. Keep stock plastic (along with all other stock parts) incase you want to revert the car to 100% stock.

5. Get a nice drop in air filter assuming you have stock air box.

The car is so clean, i wouldnt really touch anything else, unless you are prepared to go down the rabbit hole.
 

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Since it is such a nice car, keep it simple. Let me elaborate on the above suggestion.

1. Get a test pipe (~$50) to replace main cat. I would say gut the precats, but the car is so nice, i would just get the test pipe and keep the precats, although that is leaving some power on the table, you wont have to deal with a CEL or anything. This is a nice bump in power and sound. No need to replace the stock exhaust, it is not a restriction at modest power levels.

2. Get a nice downpipe. Not a ebay one, nothing that is the "F" shaped design like stock. You need one with a proper Y merged. 3sx is the best option currently on the market but i cant recall if its 1st or 2nd gen at the moment. Downpipe is also a power mod, negligible change in sound really.

3. Get a basic manual boost controler (or more fancy electronic) as mentioned. You will only be able to modestly increase boost on a stock car due to fuel limitations, but should net you a little power, especially combined with other mods. You will probably also want to install a real boost gauge at the same time.

4. Get a metal Y pipe to replace the stock plastic. This is more as preventative maintenance. Keep stock plastic (along with all other stock parts) incase you want to revert the car to 100% stock.

5. Get a nice drop in air filter assuming you have stock air box.

The car is so clean, i wouldnt really touch anything else, unless you are prepared to go down the rabbit hole.
First off, greetings and welcome.
Secondly I agree with almost all of the above.
I found a very nice, decently priced downpipe for my 92TT on Ebay, although when I just checked it appears the seller has disappeared. It was very similar to this


I know, it says Dodge Stealth, same car. Trust me I own both.

Secondly, if your sig pic is accurate, you have a growing family (not a kid anymore). Are you sure you want to go down the power upgrade path?
My upgrades (and I'm currently 62) are:

K&N FIPK (air box replacement)
SBC-iD boost controller
Downpipe replacement (only on the Stealth so far, the Spyder still has stock)
Y-pipe. The plastic pipe, while it is functional, doesn't have the bling of a nice aluminum pipe.
Test pipe (in both).
Borla catback on the Spyder (stock on the Stealth).

I enjoy both my cars, and they have plenty of "go". Neither will beat some of the newest stock performance vehicles. I'm OK with that.
I get more comments about my 28 and 25 yr old cars than most.

Great find, and good luck with whatever you do...

Bob.
 

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Maintenance first. Timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, etc. Replace the original crank pulley/dampener. It will eventually separate and bad things can happen. Make sure the oil pan is not “dented”. Pressure test for boost leaks and replace every piece of rubber on the car. After 20+ years anything rubber is not gonna be in the best of shape. These cars are reliable if taken care of. They are just 20 years old. If you can’t work on it your self, it’s going to be an expensive (but rewarding) learning experience.
 

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I would do all the maintenance first, but from a performance stand point, I’d do a decent clutch, Kinugawa 19T’s , 650cc injectors, a Walbro 340lph pump, a good flowing down pipe, and cat back, with a good management system. Something that would let you run it in speed density for flow. Then I’d get a good tune at 2 different boost settings and leave it at that. Maybe aim for 450whp with the ability to make 550whp and just enjoy the car. That’s just me though. What I do love about these cars is 400whp is easy to get to without much, and they will drive smoothly just like they did from the factory. The last one I drove at over 500whp drove very easily when you weren’t on it. When you did decide to get after it it just felt like it had a bigger engine in it. The 6G72 delivers its torque very smoothly when the tune is proper.

William-
 

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You've gotten some very good suggestions, and some things to think about... I'm going to throw in my take on it...

First, I would make sure all maintenance is up to date, and the drivetrain is healthy and ready for some mods. Then I would make my plan based on a couple factors. Due to how nice the car is, and being a desirable model, and actually has some real value; I wouldn't do anything that isn't easily reversible, and I would save all stock parts that I removed to upgrade. My goal would be in the neighborhood of 400-450 AWHP. Probably stay close to the conservative side of that range due to the limitations of the stock clutch.

I would accomplish the above by first freeing up the exhaust... I'd source some additional 2G precats that I could gut in order to put the originals aside, I'd install an aftermarket downpipe, and either a test pipe or high flow main cat. (some people don't like the smell and emissions from a catless exhaust)
Second, I would upgrade the turbos to something that could easily produce the desired power level. (I built a set of 16T turbos for a customer a few weeks ago that I think would be perfect for the task)
Third, enough fuel to produce the desired power. Probably 550cc injectors, a Denso Supra fuel pump, and a hotwire kit to run it.
For tuning and boost control I would take advantage of the fact you have a 98 model with a flashable ECU, and run Chrome software in the stock ECU....

You could easily do all of the above for well under $3k, and the difference in how the car performs would be astounding.... It would also appear completely stock, with no visual evidence whatsoever that it had been modified in any way.
 

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Hello all just purchased a 98 VR4 Pearl white w/ tan with 94k unmolested other than aftermarket wheels it is bone stock! I have been looking for a 90's Supra but I could not pass this up. I want to put some money into this thing but want to keep it as close to stock as possible without completely killing the nostalgia and value of the vehicle. If you were going to spend about $2-3k on your VR4 what would you do? Mostly looking for some performance. Thank you for your input! View attachment 286165
Are you the dude at the Toyota Dealership in Denver?


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I wouldn't turn up the boost unless you monitor knock. I also wouldn't worry about keeping it stock for value. It's going to be hitting 100k miles soon. The cars that hold value are low mileage examples.
 
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