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I feel the need for speed
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Man this conversion is tough. I finally put it all together and now everything sounds horrible lol I am sure I am to blame. I had to adjust tein coil over or else brake line bracket would rub against frame. I had to adjust alot to clear it hope camber isnt horribly off. Now i finally bled lines and wanted to test and i get a loud clunk on front right. I cant pin point whats doing it its when I turn right and steering wheel has turned all the way and i begin to slowly move up i hear clunk. Anyone else have this or have a clue what I should check?? Any help appreciated.
Mine didn't make any noise so you have to start with the basics. Ball joint pressed in fully and the C clip installed in the groove? Ball joint pinch bolt tight? Caliper bolts tight? Strut upper mounts​ tight? Tie rod tight? Axle nut tightened? Lastly, how about the lug nuts?! Those get forgotten a lot and it's possible it settled in once it started to rotate. Either way, double check the obvious and see where you're at.

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Thanks TWINTRBO my Job takes all my time monday to firday but this weekend I will check all of that. Its frustrating and to make matters worst I feel like my brakes stick so weird but my drive way is a slight hill. I pressed brakes and stopped at top released and could hear them slowly release and finally about 3 seconds later car starts sliding down. Ill keep you posted appreciate the help. Jesters parts all fit perfectly couldn't be happier I did order 3SX lines and the fronts seemed too tight but maybe its suppose to be that tight? lol clearly perhaps I should have paid a professional.
 

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I feel the need for speed
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It just occurred to me that you guys might be having issues with the brake lines because you are fighting the twists of the line or twisting it on install. The lines have a definite bend and dont like to twist either. When you install them, you should bend them with the U facing up and go from frame bracket to chassis bracket without the hard lines attached. Then you should clip the lines to the brackets and THEN you can tighten the hard lines but makes sure you do not let the flex lines turn at all. I know its easier to tighten them without it clipped, especially if you dont have a line wrench, but its important to make sure the line is unstressed in its natural position. Then again, I could be totally wrong but it makes sense to me lol!
 

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1g lip guru.
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Also, the folks that finished this swap, how were you able to install the Evo knuckles into the stock struts? The bracket with the two suspension bolts on the Evo knuckle is wider and the opening on the stock (and Tein Flex) strut to accept the knuckle. Did you grind the bracket on the knuckle to make it fit? Or did you bend the opening on the strut further apart to make it fit?
 

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I feel the need for speed
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Also, the folks that finished this swap, how were you able to install the Evo knuckles into the stock struts? The bracket with the two suspension bolts on the Evo knuckle is wider and the opening on the stock (and Tein Flex) strut to accept the knuckle. Did you grind the bracket on the knuckle to make it fit? Or did you bend the opening on the strut further apart to make it fit?
Smartest way would be to machine the Evo knuckle to 3/S spec thickness. But since that comes a bit too late for most of us, I used a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers to spread the bracket. I mentioned it somewhere in this thread before as well. You really should read through this whole thing in case you missed some tips to help you through.

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Discussion Starter #406
Smartest way would be to machine the Evo knuckle to 3/S spec thickness. But since that comes a bit too late for most of us, I used a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers to spread the bracket. I mentioned it somewhere in this thread before as well. You really should read through this whole thing in case you missed some tips to help you through.

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You dont need to machine anything or use spreaders. If your knuckle is digging into the struts during install just chaffer the leading edge of the knuckle so it doesn't catch the strut. The knuckle is like 0.040" wider so its a tight fit but fits.I'ld put in the bottom bolt and then gently but firmly hammer the top of the knuckle in. You can use pry bars to help spread the strut ears the little they need. Siriously this should take 2-5 min.
 

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I feel the need for speed
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You dont need to machine anything or use spreaders. If your knuckle is digging into the struts during install just chaffer the leading edge of the knuckle so it doesn't catch the strut. The knuckle is like 0.040" wider so its a tight fit but fits.I'ld put in the bottom bolt and then gently but firmly hammer the top of the knuckle in. You can use pry bars to help spread the strut ears the little they need. Siriously this should take 2-5 min.
I feel like I've made this comment before but trust me that the difference I experienced was way more than a .04" gap. Maybe mine were deformed from age or maybe new ones have looser tolerances but I was very short and it needed to be spread. Again, that's for an oem strut on an Evo knuckle, coil overs are a different story entirely.

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Are the ball joints and tie rod ends still available for order? And has anyone had any problems install the knuckles with tein suspension?

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Discussion Starter #409
Are the ball joints and tie rod ends still available for order? And has anyone had any problems install the knuckles with tein suspension?

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YEs still available.
I installed them with tien coilovers no problem.
 

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1g lip guru.
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You dont need to machine anything or use spreaders. If your knuckle is digging into the struts during install just chaffer the leading edge of the knuckle so it doesn't catch the strut. The knuckle is like 0.040" wider so its a tight fit but fits.I'ld put in the bottom bolt and then gently but firmly hammer the top of the knuckle in. You can use pry bars to help spread the strut ears the little they need. Siriously this should take 2-5 min.
This was not even close to being the case for me. I have tried two different sets of Evo knuckles on two different sets of struts. The Evo knuckles were considerably wider that the strut opening. I tried to chamfer them and it still didn't even come close.

I had to clearance both edges of the knuckle bracket with a grinder to get it to fit. And even then, it was so tight, that you are not able to make camber adjustments of any kind. You have to take quite a bit of material off to get them to fit remotely close to stock.

Maybe there's a variance in the knuckles or something?

Are the ball joints and tie rod ends still available for order? And has anyone had any problems install the knuckles with tein suspension?

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I'm also on Tein Flex coilovers.

I feel like I've made this comment before but trust me that the difference I experienced was way more than a .04" gap. Maybe mine were deformed from age or maybe new ones have looser tolerances but I was very short and it needed to be spread. Again, that's for an oem strut on an Evo knuckle, coil overs are a different story entirely.

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Just to add to this, I have tried two sets of Evo knuckles on stock struts and then those same two sets of knuckles on Tein Flex coilovers. Both are just as bad. I appreciate your suggestion, but I'd much rather clearance the knuckles than bend the brackets on my $1200 coilovers.
 

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I feel the need for speed
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The knuckle is like 0.040" wider so its a tight fit but fits.
I had to measure for myself and you're absolutely right, that's the difference between the 2. It seems way more significant when lining it up but that's the measured amount regardless of the trouble it seems to cause lol.



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So the only botls I'm gonna have to buy are the front Evo X caliper bolts or do i also have to get them for the rear? Also for the knuckles do I use the stock vr4 bolts?

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So the only botls I'm gonna have to buy are the front Evo X caliper bolts or do i also have to get them for the rear? Also for the knuckles do I use the stock vr4 bolts?

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You need all the caliper mounting bolts, hopefully come included with your calipers.

The upper strut bolts work fine but for the lower ball joint, try to get your knuckles with the ball joint pinch bolts included. I ended up missing one and having to pay like 16 bucks from dealer.
 

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You need all the caliper mounting bolts, hopefully come included with your calipers.

The upper strut bolts work fine but for the lower ball joint, try to get your knuckles with the ball joint pinch bolts included. I ended up missing one and having to pay like 16 bucks from dealer.
Ok cool, I'm gonna have to buy all 8 caliper bolts and also the pinch bolts then. Thanks for the info 👍

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1g lip guru.
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A quick update. I was finally able to get the car aligned. The Evo knuckles are a definite improvement. The car has much snappier steering and has a tighter turning radius.
 

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Discussion Starter #418
Ok cool, I'm gonna have to buy all 8 caliper bolts and also the pinch bolts then. Thanks for the info ��

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FYI You can also use the extra hub bolts for the pinch bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #419
A quick update. I was finally able to get the car aligned. The Evo knuckles are a definite improvement. The car has much snappier steering and has a tighter turning radius.
Good to hear!
The geometry of the evox knuckles should also help reduce bump steer for the lowered vehicles too.
 

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So I'm working on installing this conversion. Actually working on the rear first. I am running EVO X rear Calipers with 2nd Gen VR4 rear rotors. I know it is mentioned a few times throughout this thread that some "clearancing" is needed to fit the EVO rear Calipers. Can someone clarify exactly what that means? I know the bolt holes for the caliper mount need to be enlarged, is that it? Also the bolt holes on my calipers don't center exactly with the existing mounting holes on the knuckle. Is it just a matter of boring the holes on the knuckle until it lines up? Couldn't that potentially allow the caliper to "float" on the mounting points?
 

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