Mitsubishi 3000GT & Dodge Stealth Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
As I posted almost a year ago, my 290,000 mile 1998 VR-4 engine died, and I bought a 1997 JDM GTO engine for $5350, including turbos and transmission.

First off, is it correct that a 1997 6G72 engine from Japan only makes 276 HP (still makes 315 lb/ft of torque), and what exactly is detuned w/ the Japanese model:
Mitsubishi GTO twin turbo, Mitsubishi GTO MR (Japan)DOHC 24v V6 twin turbo206 kW (280 PS; 276 hp) at 6,000 rpm427 N⋅m (315 lb⋅ft) at 2,500 rpm
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (United States)DOHC 24v V6 twin turbo238.4 kW (324 PS; 320 hp) at 6,000 rpm427 N⋅m (315 lb⋅ft) at 2,500 rpm


Second, the check engine light goes on a day after it's cleared. The dealership that installed the engine said that the vacuum hoses were hard to figure out and they would test everything again. They said it was the evaporation purge solenoid that was bad, they tested it, no electrical conduction with the voltmeter. They told me to look for a replacement one. It was hard to find the right one; the part number didn't match up anywhere and online parts suppliers often don't even list all of the solenoids this car has. I finally found a 1997 Mitsubishi Pajero evap purge solenoid that looked identical, bought it used for $20. Was waiting to bring it in later (I got an oil change in the meantime but didn't want to bother that lube shop for doing something like this). While I was waiting, I noticed that a few vacuum hoses were cracked. Also my windshield fluid hoses have been broken for a long time, so I thought hey, I'll buy some vacuum hose and assorted T's, and maybe I'll try to do as much as I can myself with replacing the hoses and trying to install the evap purge solenoid.

Now here's where it gets really weird: I don't have the original evap purge solenoid, just a picture of it from the dealership, I guess they threw it out. But that's not even the issue: when I went to find the three hoses and plug for the replacement solenoid, they simply were not there. See solenoid rack picture 3rd down --- the one 2nd from right is gone, no plug, no wires, nothing. Looking at the first diagram below, I immediately noticed that: the 91-93 USA version has three diagonal metal vacuum connectors directly attached to the top of the engine (hollow inside) between the solenoids and the 'front' of the engine (the middle left side between the battery / air intake and engine). The 94-99 USA version (or maybe 96-99?) has five diagonal metal vacuum connectors AS SHOWN BELOW. My replacement 97 GTO engine has...four. Also, on the 4th picture down, notice to the right of this diagonal metal layout, the letters PEA. EA is hooked up correctly with the vacuum hoses. P has nothing, and it doesn't have the top brass insert plug either, so it DOES nothing. P should have a vacuum hose connected to the evap purge solenoid. Game over.
291936
291937




291938
291939


Why would the dealership BS me about this? Probably because they spent 40 hours reinstalling the engine, transmission, wiring, hoses, only charged 22 hrs labor, and then at the end figured out that one solenoid cannot be connected. So they tell me to get a frigging replacement when it can't even be connected??? Not cool. I assume not even a really good electrical shop can 'make' this work if that P from PEA can't even do anything...it would take dozens of hours of research to fix this problem...maybe. Everyone in California and other anal-retentive emissions states should know that JDM Japanese-sourced GTO engines will fail smog unless the check engine light is cleared right before smogging it, and a pending code may show up anyway.


So what are my options in California:
1. Clear the P400 code right before getting the car smogged next time and cross my fingers
2. Sell the car out of state
3. Register the car out of state

Any other options?
 

·
Registered
1991 VR4
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Best option: find another way to pass smog without the emission control systems in place. Will save yourself a lot of headaches. Been doing it for 13 years... If you still have the cats in place and you are just worried about the visual, that's even easier. Clearing the code and finding a reasonable shop to get the sniffer test done shouldn't be that hard at all. It becomes a bit harder when you have full vacc reduction/EGR/Evap delete and are catless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
GTOs never had the evap solenoid.
The bits you need, get it all from one of the many partouts.

What about the second o2 sensor?
Is it fitted?

Anyone whos swapping in a JDM engine, you'll need to retain the parts which are different, intake manifold, turbo downpipes and EGR components.

As for the HP rating being different, they use different cams and ECU and intended to be run on 100RON fuel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The engine swap unfortunately got rid of those wires, they are simply not there now. The dealership is playing dumb about it, and...the mechanic that did the swap is now working somewhere else. Besides, it's not just the wiring, it's also hoses that would go to nowhere on the Japanese engine version. It would take an electrical specialist a while to figure it all out if they were lucky. There would have to be a lot of spicing, finding solenoid wiring terminals in junkyards, etc. I know where this is headed, been there, done that. Not gonna try. If this was a 2015 Ford Mustang, yes. It's a 1998 Mitsubishi that's been discontinued for 20 years. There are other mechanics in the past, many years ago, that have told me more than once they had to improvise on parts for this car because there simply was not anything online to buy. And that was back around 2006. This is 2021, parts are not getting easier to find, if you have not noticed.

On a different note, today I officially paid off the $5450 JDM engine 100% by Chase Ink rewards card! So it cost $0 with the rewards points. Took almost exactly one year to pay off. And then watch, it won't pass smog lol. I'll probably spend $20K on something else if I have to get rid of the car. Looking at used BMW, Audi, maybe Infiniti (won't do Supra with no manual trans). I'll post my car for sale on here if needed later, it's in relatively good shape. Obviously not selling to a CA buyer due to the smog issue.
 

·
Registered
1991 VR4
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
You're overestimating the difficulty of the smog hurdle. Get the car running without EVAP/EGR/etc, put a main cat on it so you can pass the sniffer test, and find a place to overlook visual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
You're overestimating the difficulty of the smog hurdle. Get the car running without EVAP/EGR/etc, put a main cat on it so you can pass the sniffer test, and find a place to overlook visual.
He's in Cali, they will pop the hood, see no Evap and automatically fail him. If they don't fail the visual, they will plug in the OBD II port, show he's not ready and fail him.
 

·
Registered
1991 VR4
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
He's in Cali, they will pop the hood, see no Evap and automatically fail him. If they don't fail the visual, they will plug in the OBD II port, show he's not ready and fail him.
I am in CA. I am catless, have no EVAP, no EGR, etc etc. Almost nothing related to the engine in my bay looks OEM. Ive had this car since 2007... All i am saying is that its reasonably easy to find a place that will overlook visual as long as you pass sniffer. It's harder to find a place that will pass you catless. It's not as black and white as he is making it sound, or else no one would have modified cars in Cali.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
672 Posts
Man it must suck to live in Cali, it's much easier here in NC. Pre-OBD2 cars don't even get emissions tested, just a brief safety inspection. Hell last time I got my car inspected the dude said "Nice car man, but it's too low to get over the blocks and into the inspection bay, so I guess you pass".
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top