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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning on buying a 1995 Forest Green w/ Tan leather, every-option VR4 with 39129 on it. Now here are the questions...
1. When I turn start it I hear a whirrrrr sound until the car warms up...it sounds as though it is comming from the left side of the engine (when standing in front of the car w/ hood open)..the only thing I know about these cars is from what I read here...do you know if this is the water pump or anything major, because the dealership said they would fix anything before I bought it.
2. When inside the car with windows shut, if I rev the engine up to a mere 3000 RPM I hear a rapid ticking noise (similar to a bad speedo cable sound, but I am not moving so there should be no speed reading) from inside the dash....any ideas?
3. When shifting, especially under hard acceleration, I hear a thump in the rear of the car every time I put it in gear...again..could this be a bad universal....any ideas?
4. When driving, especially under hard acceleration I pull down on the stick (2nd, 4th, 6th) and hold it, I can feel the stick moving with my acceleration and lack there of...is this a bad transmission (or mount)tipoff? Also while driving in any gear if I pull back on the stick or push foward (depending on gear) I feel the stick vibrating, is this normal?


Thanks for your help, this will decide whether or not I become Adam '95 VR4 next week or later on
 
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Discussion Starter #2
1. The "whir" may be the radiator fan. Does the car have the stock airfilter? (black box) Or does it have a K&N. It's probably no big deal, unless you hear a sharp whining when under boost.

2. The ticking as the valve lash adjusters. Its a VERY common annoyance on these cars. It will effect absolutely nothing except your brain. The lash adjusters are a faulty design. They get air pockets in them after time and make the ticking noise. Its not a "problem" per se, but it is annoying.

3. That thump may be a bad u-joint, or a problem with the rear diff., although that is really unheard of.

4. DON'T PLAY WITH THE STICK WHEN ITS IN GEAR! My '92 VR-4's stick has similar characteristics and every single VR-4/TT I've driven is the same, along with other makes of cars. Just don't move it around while the trans is in gear.

You do know about the tranny probs that seem to be not so uncommon on these cars, right?

Jon -- '92 VR-4
 
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Discussion Starter #3
know if front diff ratteling in some as far as the noise off to the left
lifters do seem to be a probelm but there are up dated lifter for that.. with bigger oiler holes.. see dealer about that but i think the noise you are hearing are the perge valves for the emissions..thats only heard in the car and not out side as lifters would.
have see mount on top of diff brake before..also
if it is six speed not quite the trans problems as the five speed..
 

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Adam,
Where is this VR4 located? If it's in NY / NJ area then I beleve that i know the party that is selling it. Just curious if its the same one. (I was contemplating it myself)
--Steve
3SI # 392
 

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The whirr should not be a problem. My guess is its the ABS setting itself. Would not be the rad fans since they should npt be doing much until the coolant temp sensor warms and kicks them in, probably at 175deg.
Ticking noise could be injectors, or valves (lash adjusters?). Should be looked at, but not majorly expensive.
The trans noises (not the shifter ones, because those are normal) are what I would be concerned about. Find out more.

[This message has been edited by Diablo (edited December 21, 1999).]
 
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Discussion Starter #6
My opinions:

1. If the noise is coming from the left side of the car when standing in front of it, it's probably not anything related to the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, or anything driven by the drive belts, since they are on the right hand side. The noise, as you describe it, sounds like the noise my car made when the timing belt tensioner went, but when hearing it, it was OBVIOUSLY on the right hand side.

2. Ticking noise could be the tachometer, but it could also be the EGR valve or the purge solenoid. The EGR, if noisy, will kick on at about 1800 RPM and go dead silent below that...almost like it's been cut off. The purge solenoid noise will come on and off regardless of the RPM, almost as if it has a mind of it's own and will click at a constant rate until the fuel vapors in the charcoal canister are purged. Cranking up the engine's RPM up to 3000, particularly in cold weather will set it off. Purge solenoid noises are not considered to be a problem...that's just the way they sound and work. Unless the car actually has bad valves or REALLY bad lash adjusters, the noise from lash adjusters usually lessens, often disappearing at high RPM.

3. Better hope it's not a u-joint...that requires a full new drive line! It could be carrier bearings, but it may be normal...I couldn't tell without hearing it (and then I might not be able to tell anyway :) ).

4. How much does it move? If it's just slightly (say an 1/8th of an inch or less) I'd say it's probably normal, but to suspect a bad/loose transmission mount is one hell of a good shot in the dark....it could explain the thumping in item 3! Find another VR-4 or RT/TT to compare it to, if possible.

None of the problems, if they are that, sound particularly serious to me, but on the other hand when my car had that few miles on it, it didn't really seem to have ANYTHING that would draw my attention to any potential problems. I would try to get the service records and do a check to make sure the mileage hasn't been rolled back.

Good Luck,

Bill Wagner

[This message has been edited by Bill Wagner (edited December 21, 1999).]
 

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Diablo, the whirring sound made by the ABS (manual says it's an ABS self-test of some sort) lasts only about 2 seconds, and occurs only when the car hits 4 MPH for the first time after it is started.

If indeed he's hearing that self-test, then he would seem to have a major ABS problem.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I have a 95 green VR-4. I have some of the problems you mentioned.

(1) The ticking noise you are hearing is NOT the auto lash adjusters. I have exactly the same problem. You rev the car to about 2500 RPM and you start hearing a ticking from the dash, like it is coming from the speedometer. As soon as it the RPMs drop down, it stops.
I don't have a clue what it is, but mine does the same thing. Especially when cold. It goes away after the car warms up. My autolash adjusters were replaced due to valve tick and my engine is perfectly quiet now. No noise whatsoever, but the noise you are speaking of still exists, but doesn't seem to be any problem, other than annoying.

(2) The "thump" from the rear end. This is more than likely the rear differential, namely the viscous coupling residing within the differential case. This is probably because that car was towed improperly at some point. That is what happened to mine. Guess what? I have a whole new differential coming to me. It should already be in at the dealer. Also, did you notice the car jumping forward a bit before you even get it into 1st gear? That is another sign of a damaged viscous coupling. You can replace this coupling, but it is very difficult to do, and I'd suggest replacing the whole diff unit. That's what I am doing. This part cost me $1100.00. Labor will be another $600. But that's a great price, because I got it at wholesale price. You will pay about $1695.00 for this if you don't have a dealer liscense!! My dad does, and ordered in for me. So, thus far I have a brand new cylinder head (bad work done at Max Madsen Mitsu in Chicago), a new transmission and transfer case, clutch, plugs/wires, brakes, rotors, various sensors,timing belt, tensioner, and now, the rear differential.
Don't fear.. this is not normal maintenance on these cars. I've just had bad luck with a crappy dealership. The rear diff, just bad luck too, towed by a dumb redneck. Should have sued him.

The moral to this is, make them fix it ALL! And, if you happen to find out what this ticking noise is, please let me know at [email protected] Don't let them jerk you around on that differential. Insist that they replace it, or you don't buy. If you can get your hands on the service manual, read the "general" section, where it discusses proper towing. That is where it talks about he viscous coupling and symptoms of damage.

Good luck to ya!

Joe
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Joe:

How loud was this thump you were hearing. Additionally, were you hearing an odd sounds like a "woo-woo-woo" (typical of a bearing failure...but can't be traced to a bearing) that appeared to be driveline related?

Thanks,

Bill Wagner
 
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Yes Sir Bill, that is exactly what I hear. A repitive low frequency noise from the rear.
The thump can be fairly loud, if I don't shift it like a baby. Also, I get this very weird "roaring" sound from the rear end (as best as I can describe it) on starting the engine sometimes, which disappears after about 5 seconds. And then there's the car lurching forward as I go to put it in first gear. The thump happens on every shift, if not shifting very carefully, the roaring occurs occasionally, usually on cold start, and the repitive hum from the rear occurs all the time, particularly noticeable on the interstate in sixth gear. Looks like it will be about a $1700 job for mine, $1100 for the differential, and that is at wholesale price, and about $600 labor. My diff will be in today. Have to pick it up in Alabama though, that's where my Dad lives, and he ordered it for me. I live in Atlanta, so I'll have to go get the part then I'll have it installed here. I'll let you know the results, and if it cured these problems. I think it will.

[This message has been edited by Joe_Patterson (edited December 22, 1999).]
 
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Joe:

A lot of the noises (thumping and jumping forward) are often symptoms of an improperly adjusted clutch and/or carrier bearings going bad. Right after I had my clutch replaced, the dealership turned the flywheel. When I got it back, I noticed the thump and the lurch forward. After a lot of thought and talk with some other people on the [email protected] list, I decided to examine the clutch adjustment in detail.

Apparently our cars are VERY susceptible to anything being taken off the flywheel...enough in fact to set my clutch pedal height/free play adjustment off by almost an inch. This effectively caused the clutch to remain partially engaged when the clutch was fully depressed. I had a local tranny shop put the car up on a rack with the parking brake on (to simulate being stopped), and what would happen is that when the clutch pedal was pushed in and the car put into gear, because the clutch wasn't fully releasing, some of the rotational motion gets transferred to the rear end. What happens is that the drive shaft can't rotate because the wheels are locked, so it slaps up against the carrier bearings, thus producing the thud.

I adjusted the clutch, and for the most part the noise is gone, and the "lurching" is 100% gone. This isn't to say your differential isn't bad, but it's possible you may have multiple things contributing to the noise. The clutch adjustment is easy to do, but it MUST be done according to the procedures in the manual. A lot of mechanics find this difficult to believe and tend to ignore, trivialize, or just blow-off the proper adjustment...so if you get it done, make sure it's done RIGHT.

As for the woo-woo-woo noise...I'm still looking into that. I'm hoping it's just tire noise in my case.

Good Luck,

Bill Wagner



[This message has been edited by Bill Wagner (edited December 23, 1999).]
 
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