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Hey guys I'm new to this forum and this is my first post.
(I don't even know if I'm am in the right section). I don't own a 3000gt(or any other car yet), but I'll be posting questions like these. :)

Does the all wheel steering system really make a difference when cornering? Is handling improved? Other than saving weight, why do some vr4 owners choose to remove it?
 

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If its working properly and not leaking yes it is definitely worth keeping. Makes a huge difference. But like most out there the lines and fittings have rotted and have started leaking and they're discontinued parts. So impossible to fix/replace unless you go to a hydraulic company and have custom stuff made. Easy to do but may not be cheap. Or the seals in the rear rack have gave out and started leaking or other stuff can go wrong with it given its age. Which is why some people delete the system. Honestly if my vr4 still had it and it was still in good shape I would have kept it. But its already been deleted so I'll never add it back. And really you might loose 30lbs of weight by deleting, so doing it just for that purpose is dumb in my opinion.

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Yes it works, yes you should keep it. I have just rebuilt mine. Rebuilt racks are available from 3SX and the lines can be replaced by any competent hydraulic specialist.

IMHO the Mitsubishi engineers who designed our platform really knew what they were doing. They had the challenge of making a nose-heavy, FWD, 4 door sedan platform into one of the 90's best handling sports cars and they did exactly that. In the 90's I could run rings around all the contemporary competition at my local race tracks.

AWS would never have made it to production (given its complexity and cost) if it didn't produce real benefits.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If its working properly and not leaking yes it is definitely worth keeping. Makes a huge difference...

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Thanks! One thing I forgot, does the aws help with the car's tendency to understeer or would you have to upgrade the sway bars?
 

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Thanks! One thing I forgot, does the aws help with the car's tendency to understeer or would you have to upgrade the sway bars?
No not sway bars (flame suit on). Yes the AWS helps but not enough. You can help it work better. The biggest problem is the OEM open front diff and crappy VCU center diff.

The best way to reduce push on a VR4 is to do the following in sequence

1) get decent rubber and set the front camber to -3 and rear to zero
2) reduce the CofG by lowering it with GOOD coil overs - Ohlins are the best Teins are junk - I tried both
3) replace the open front diff with a Quaife (then you can reduce front camber a little and add some in the rear)
4) replace the OEM VCU center diff with a Torsen - which puts more power to the real wheels (and you can add a bit more rear camber

Having said all of that, my VR4 could run rings round pretty much everything back when I first got it, with just a "fish tank" boost valve (400 crank HP), Eibach lowering springs and camber adjustment - and accepting that I needed to drive it into corners as if it were FWD then stomp on the gas just before the apex and let the AWD and AWS work their magic.

My 2c on on after market (anti) sway bars (extra flame suit added):
1) the best ride and handling-engineers always strive to use the lightest anti sway bars possible - as this gives the highest overall grip and fastest suspension response. Take a look at Lotus, Caterham and Mclaren.
2) even the best engineered and best set-up anti-sway bars work by actually reducing overall grip
3) unless you have access to a professional suspension rig/chassis data acquisition and you really know what you are doing, you will almost certainly make your handling less predictable and potentially dangerous by messing with them
4) IMHO the after-market sway bars for our platform are poorly conceived and poorly engineered
5) there is zero point if you get the other stuff right first
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No not sway bars (flame suit on). Yes the AWS helps but not enough. You can help it work better. The biggest problem is the OEM open front diff and crappy VCU center diff.

The best way to reduce push on a VR4 is to do the following in sequence

1) get decent rubber and set the front camber to -3 and rear to zero
2) reduce the CofG by lowering it with GOOD coil overs - Ohlins are the best Teins are junk - I tried both
3) replace the open front diff and put a Quaife differential in the front (then you can reduce front camber a little and add some in the rear
4) replace the OEM VCU center diff with a Torsen - which puts more power to the real wheels

Having said all of that, my VR4 could run rings round pretty much everything back when I first got it, with just a "fish tank" boost valve (400crank HP), Eibach lowering springs and camber adjustment - and accepting that I needed to drive it into corners as if it were FWD then stomp on the gas just before the apex and let the AWD and AWS work their magic.

My 2c on on after market (anti) sway bars (extra flame suit added):
1) the best ride and handling-engineers always strive to use the lightest anti sway bars possible - as this gives the highest overall grip and fastest suspension response
2) unless you have access to a professional suspension rig and you really know what you are doing, you will almost certainly make your handling less predictable and potentially dangerous
3) IMHO the after-market sway bars for our platform are poorly conceived and poorly engineered
4) even the best engineered and best set-up anti-sway bars work by actually reducing overall grip
5) there is zero point if you do the above

That was very helpful. Thanks for all of the advice! Much appreciated
This was a nice first experience on this forum.

Too bad I don't even have a license yet :|.
I'm still in high school, but that doesn't mean I know nothing about cars, my Dad had two of these.
This is my favorite car and I want to know all I can about it! I'd love this to be my first car though I'll have to save up, but one day.
 

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That was very helpful. Thanks for all of the advice! Much appreciated
This was a nice first experience on this forum.

Too bad I don't even have a license yet :|.
I'm still in high school, but that doesn't mean I know nothing about cars, my Dad had two of these.
This is my favorite car and I want to know all I can about it! I'd love this to be my first car though I'll have to save up, but one day.
There is nothing wrong with starting early. I helped my dad work on his bike and cars starting at age 6 (not very well at first), was building (and wrecking) my own bikes at 12 and I built my first car at 17 from a wreck - it was the only way I could afford one.
 

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AWS does is give you a momentary aggressive alignment to help the car rotate by changing Toe instead of having to do it with static settings which will increase tire wear, and make the car become unstable at high speeds in a straight line.

Remove Turbos, Add Carbon Fiber hood, run 315mm Slicks on all 4 corners with -4* of Camber, and give the rear some Toe Out.

You'll never have rotation problems again.
 

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AWS would never have made it to production (given its complexity and cost) if it didn't produce real benefits.
Except it was deleted from the MR edition cars as well as actual race cars.

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Except it was deleted from the MR edition cars as well as actual race cars.

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just saw this.... doesn't Lamborghini have AWS? lol
 

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Most modern sports cars have some form or rear wheel steering, either passive like Porsche and McLaren or active like VR4s and Lambos.
 
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