I believe you are thinking of the tubing inside the plastic oval that is directly behind the MAS. If you take that off and feel inside, there are some plastic tubes in there that direct airflow from the BOV. I yanked it out of mine, but am not really sure if it affects anything.
Stock BOV's are closed and aftermarket BOV's are open element? Meaning they send the excess air out instead of recirculating it. So you guys take off some plastic peices inside the pipe that connects the BOV and it can make that loud BOV sound? I am just curious... I won't bother buying an aftermarket BOV if I can just get a stock one and modify it... Bryan
You dont remove anything that will affect the plumbing of the BOV. If you take your MAS off, the roud thing it connects to has some tubes in it. yanking those out are what we are talking about. Those tubes channel the vented air from the BOV into the two intake tracts. The air will still go into the intake, only now there are no plastic tubes in its way.
So it is the pipe from the MAS to the intake manifold that has the plastic things to be removed? So If I were to get an aftermarket intake pipe with the stock BOV it will make that sound? This is very intresting.. I though that the sound was produced when the air is released to the open air... Please let me know if what I descibed earlier is correct... Thanks... Bryan
Yup that is how it goes. Drozzix has the Steal Intake Pipes from DN Performance and a K & N filter and that engine screams. My stock car sounds like a bitch next to his an mine is a DOHC compared to his SOHC. LOL Luv that sound.HEHE
After further research it seems my problem is I still have the stock airbox which holds the sound in. Time for K&N I guess. Having a hard time shelling out $150 for an air filter though. Oh well, it can wait I guess.
i like the type-s BOV's sound much better than stock. and getting the FIPK or any other aftermarket intake that replaces the stock airbox will make the BOV louder.
I also just got back from trying this, It seamed to me to make a differance, like my turbos were louder or my engine was working harder. I did her the whosh sound but it did not seam to be very much louder, but It started sooner
Bypassing the relay will just make for a bit of a better connection and a fried fuel pump if something goes wacky with your electrical. You would need to actually run a 12v Hotwire directly from the battery or other 12v source (ignition wire?) to maintain full flow. What the fuel pump actually gets is anywhere from 9.5v to 13.5v
Upgrading the fuel pump is necessary for anything over the stock injectors. With 13G's (or equivalent), you'd be hard pressed to maintain 14psi all the way to redline without fuel cut or something to that effect (not sure if you'll actually hit fuel cut, but I think I've heard of it happening, even with a boost level as small as that).
Also, check the Y-Pipe for oil. If there's a bit of standstill oil in the Y-pipe (and/or if you occasionally get blue-grey smoke out the tail pipes) Then your turbos are probably blown. I just installed my DR500's and I still get that film around my intake pipes. Thats just the way turbos are though.
Quick question, would the "tennis ball" mod be considered a "JohnM" mod?
I mean cramming a tennis ball between the Y-pipe and the battery so you can run over 15psi without it blowing off.
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