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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think i might get away from the 3/S platform for a little bit, maybe. really starting to decide going diesel in the form of Dodge Ram 2500/3500...

maybe i'll pick up a cheap turbo 3/S and build it over time, but i think my desires are starting to sway me in other directions :eek:

is there something wrong with me :confused:
 

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Diesel swap 3kgt :D
 

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Modded diesels isnt a cheap way out...to get a Cummins out of the 13s you are looking around 15k invested into the truck...

A Carli suspension will set you back over 5k for a upper/middle end setup...

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
not looking at making the truck super fast or heavily modding it, nor a cheap way out. looking for a solid hard working reliable vehicle good on fuel and will last me forever. exhaust, intake and power control will give me more than i need for a good while. this would actually be saving me money instead of going by way of 3/S with a DR750 or TD05 16G swap.
 

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Gotcha, budget the money for a mild trans build, a good single disc(garmon) and a valve body to match your truck is all you'd need. The Common rail dodges make silly power very easily and a stock 48RE will be crying for its life in no time.

The front ends are crap in stock form on the dodges, budget in a good solid rebuild of the steering and ball joints, especially the BJ's on the 3rd gens, they are garbage.

Stay away from the trucks with emmissions, so stay 5.9 and pre 07, mid model year of 04 and up are the good ones, referred to as 04.5+.

I own a cummins dodge and personally would rather own a 06/07 lbz duramax if i was going to buy a newer truck. They are more reliable and tow better than the cummins. Ride way better too. Couldnt give me a 05 or older Dmax though...

Jason
 

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I feel ya! However, I couldn't give it all up, so now I have both!
I love diesel trucks; mine isn't a mall craweler, I use it to tow my jeep to the trails and for picking up cars that need work so I can take them home, fix them and sell them for a profit.
They are tons of fun though, and amazingly cheap to get the first 100-150 hp and 200-300 ft lbs of torque out of. Hell, a used programmer and an exhaust sytem will get you that, for under $1000.
I had a 99 cummins 5 speed, which was an awesome truck. I did lots of mods to it, and it responded very well. Injectors, 2 programmers, exhaust, intake, water/meth, clutch, the thing would fly up any hill i wanted with the jeep behind it at 75 mph.
I recently sold it for an 07 Duramax, simply because I wanted a full 4 door truck, and the nicer ride that the Dmax offers.
Just beware of the autos, no matter whcih truck you buy, none of them can handle much more than 100 hp over stock without at least a valve body and torque convertor.
I do hear that the Ford 5R110 is a beast though and handles 500 hp very well, even at the track.
I love diesel trucks and would never ever own a gas truck because they absolutely suck at anything that requires them to get good mileage or tow a trailer!
 

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I've gotten more into building/restoring my truck more than the 3/S. The way I look at it. I need the truck more than I need the car. The car can't haul anything and when it snows here I get stuck trying to get out of the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
yeah...i am going for a 98-04 cummins 2500. i want the common-rail, and will absolutely get a manual. i hate autos.

i also will use it occasionally for picking up cheap cars for profits :)
 

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Common rail started in 03. They were low output though, but you can easily turn them up. 04.5 they jumped to 305 HP.
 

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The NV5600 is a beast of a trans, but also hugely expensive to rebuild and as hard to get parts for as a 3/S trans.

The NV4500 is a joke and with decent power upgrades can rip on into two peices. Or snap the input shaft. Or 5th gear will fall off. Or snap the intermediate shaft...A decent twin disc clutch is a mother to drive and almost or over 2 grand.

For a diesel, auto is the way to go. Dont just your opinion on how an auto diesel drives until you drive a truck with a built auto, stock autos, especially dodge ones are so bad its not even funny.

Common rails started in 03, the 03's got the shitty 47re and teh early trucks eat injectors, melt pistons, all those fun things.

A 01.5 to 02 for a 2nd gen is a good solid truck, has the brake upgrades out back and the later model VP44 injection pump that is a little more reliable than the earlier models.

The holy grail of 2nd gens to many would be a late 01 or 02 high output with the 6spd manual. Has higher compression, tweaked injection pump(timing is tweaked).

Again id highly suggest an auto truck over a manual. The manuals dodge used arent that good, just like the shitty auto, except the auto can be good for about the same price as a twin disc clutch and fixing the manual that you grenaded, because you will.

Just my .02c...Ive owned my truck for over 3 years now and driven it over 100k miles. This truck is more expensive to keep on the road than my VR4 ever was. But its my work vehicle and pays the bills.
Here's mine:


Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The NV5600 is a beast of a trans, but also hugely expensive to rebuild and as hard to get parts for as a 3/S trans.

The NV4500 is a joke and with decent power upgrades can rip on into two peices. Or snap the input shaft. Or 5th gear will fall off. Or snap the intermediate shaft...A decent twin disc clutch is a mother to drive and almost or over 2 grand.

For a diesel, auto is the way to go. Dont just your opinion on how an auto diesel drives until you drive a truck with a built auto, stock autos, especially dodge ones are so bad its not even funny.

Common rails started in 03, the 03's got the shitty 47re and teh early trucks eat injectors, melt pistons, all those fun things.

A 01.5 to 02 for a 2nd gen is a good solid truck, has the brake upgrades out back and the later model VP44 injection pump that is a little more reliable than the earlier models.

The holy grail of 2nd gens to many would be a late 01 or 02 high output with the 6spd manual. Has higher compression, tweaked injection pump(timing is tweaked).

Again id highly suggest an auto truck over a manual. The manuals dodge used arent that good, just like the shitty auto, except the auto can be good for about the same price as a twin disc clutch and fixing the manual that you grenaded, because you will.

Just my .02c...Ive owned my truck for over 3 years now and driven it over 100k miles. This truck is more expensive to keep on the road than my VR4 ever was. But its my work vehicle and pays the bills.
Here's mine:


Jason
interesting. i'm hearing different opinions about auto vs. manual from several areas. i'm not dragging this truck or doing serious modding, so why would my blow the manual tranny? is it just a weak link in the drive-train? i haveb't heard anything bad about them from everything i've been reading.

i also don't plan on putting more than 8k miles a year on it. how would this truck cost more than a vr4? diesel costs virtually the exact same as premium 93 octane, so the only thing i'd see costing more is fuel, by ~6-10mpg difference assuming the diesel will get 16-19mpg highway, rough ballpark from what i've been reading.

On the contrary, my '98 Navigator gets ~13-15 combined mpg on 87 octane.

Plus the added benefit of being able to haul anything should i need it, like a boat to a lake for fishing, or backwoods hunting country...hauling cars for repair and whatnot

in my dream world, i'd have a cummins disel with a CBR-600R in the bed and a VR-4 in tow :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
can a forward-facing baby seat fit ok on the bench seat in the back of the extended cab like the one you have? or is it kinda cramped? I'd probablt be considering a DVD-player in the front-seat headrest for my kids should i need to shuttle them around to the hardware store or the circuit to pick up hookers.
 

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Well, at 8k a year, you will probably be fine. if you can get a 6spd truck. The 5spd is junk. Just dont run hard through the gears and the 5600 will hold up pretty well. Its prone to overheating when towing heavy due to a fairly small fluid capacity. The cast iron case also doesnt dissipate heat for shit which leads to fluid break down.

The VP44 trucks have a few MUST do mods, one is an aftermarket lift pump and a fuel pressure gauge. The stock LP on the 2nd gen trucks is junk and the VP is fuel lubricated and also not meant to supply its own fuel. Run it dry once and you'll be replacing it to the tune of 1400 bucks a pop, fortunately its easy enough to do. Gotta love the cummins when it comes to ease of working on!

The manual trucks got the bigger HX35 which can support a good but of power. A perfect setup for cheap and reliable on a 2nd gen with a stick would be a good clutch, Bosch RV275 injectors, raptor100 LP, Edge EZ and a 5" turbo back. The normal compliment of fuel pressure, egt and boost gauges are pretty a nessecity, with the EGT being the least important if you only wanted two.

Also avoid a truck with 4:10 gears, you'll pay for it in the wallet, they wont get over 17mpg. I ahve 3.55 gears and I can get 21-22mpg with my truck in the summer, thats my tank average! Ive gotten as good as 25mpg on the highway at 55mph turning just 1300rpm.

The steering sucks, tires bigger than stock tear up the stock steering gear. Which is easily upgraded, but its expensive, my steering gear cost me about 2500 installed. I have the PSC performance stage 3 setup(1050) and a KORE track bar(500). I can actually keep the wheel in one spot now while driving down the highway..lol

The a/c SUCKS in these dodges, ive spent a lot to make it mediocre. The hvac in general is just crap....lol. Make sure you buy a well maintained truck, mine was maintained to a T and i still have about 2500 bucks a year in repairs outside of maintenance. But i do over 30k miles a year and half that is with that trailer in tow.

Jason
 
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