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Discussion Starter #1
Good afternoon guys, I have a quick question to see if your cars will do the same thing and if it’s the ignition switch: With the key in the ignition (in the far left off position) and the drivers door open, the chime will ring. I can slightly wiggle and maneuver the key to where the chime will stop ringing. Are y’all able to do this in your fully working car? I tried it with the key in the other positions and it didn’t seem to stop the chime. I’m hoping the car shutting off while driving and periodically not starting is from the ignition switch and not something more major like ECU or something more difficult to track down. This same thing happened to me in a 1993 Nissan back in the day, so it got me thinking. Thanks.

Issues that have been happening:
I’ve been having issues from time to time where my car wouldn’t start (crank no start). It happens probably 15% of the time. This week while driving the car would shut off and I would pull over and a couple minutes later it would start and I can drive again. It didn’t do this before with the no start issue but I’m thinking it could be associated.
 

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Yes, the cylinder can and does wear out over time causing the infamous click-no-start issue (regardless of having the solenoid/relay "fix" or not). Personally, I just installed a push start button to preserve mine heh.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, the cylinder can and does wear out over time causing the infamous click-no-start issue (regardless of having the solenoid/relay "fix" or not). Personally, I just installed a push start button to preserve mine heh.

-sent from my Galaxy Note 9
Thanks for the response, I’m thinking my car stalling could be because of the ignition key switch losing contact. Would doing the push button start option be where I wouldn’t even need to deal with a key in the ignition? Any blog about this install! Thanks.
 

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Most welcome! I may have slightly misread your original post, but you can try inspecting the copper contacts within. On occasion, tightening a screw seems to remedy symptoms unless FUBAR'd.

Bad Ignition Switch? <<

Image from thread:


RE your other question, yes and no lol. It is the same idea as adding any aftermarket key-less system. I chose to retain key operation, but others have gone completely without it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Most welcome! I may have slightly misread your original post, but you can try inspecting the copper contacts within. On occasion, tightening a screw seems to remedy symptoms unless FUBAR'd.

Bad Ignition Switch? <<

Image from thread:


RE your other question, yes and no lol. It is the same idea as adding any aftermarket key-less system. I chose to retain key operation, but others have gone completely without it.
Okay perfect thanks! That's what I was looking for. I'm going to try to "screw" it and see if that helps, ha! I don't want to jinx myself but I drove the car all weekend and this week and it seems to be running normal and no stalling. Other than a slight shimmy/shake at idle it seems to be running good. Thanks.
 
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