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If you are Installing a REAR STRUT BAR > READ THIS FIRST!!!

872 views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  JeremyG 
#1 ·
Ok, I am working on a little bit "better" way to install a rear strut bar... a little more "finished" look to the install.

So if you are installing one, DO NOT CUT those covers yet. Go ahead and install the bar but just leave those cover pieces (the plastic trim that gives you access to the rear struts) off the car for now, give me a week or so and I'll hopefully have a better way to trim it out!

I have the theory, I just need to get the bar here so I can do some measuring, etc.
 
#2 ·
I recently placed a cusco rear strut bar in my 95' 3KGT. I'm glad I saw your post, b/c I haven't trimmed the plastic pieces yet. Tell me if what your doing works and psot a pic when complete so I can see it. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
Ok, will do... as I said mine should be here pretty soon... I think it will look much better if it works, it should take minimal measuring and minimal tools.

I'm hoping for the bar to be here sometime this coming week.
 
#5 ·
Strut Bar Arrived Today!

I am going to do my best to try to install it yet this week but I have to remove my Turbo Timer (sold it) and old alarm (sold it), and also replace my door's locks (bought new ones).

I'm looking at the bar and where it will go and I'm thinking this MIGHT work (the idea I had) but may not...

Again nobody hold off on actually installing your bar, just don't cut the trim pieces until you see what I'm going to do.

Thanks1
 
#6 ·
what we do is install the mounts and put the trim in place and push a bit down on the trim pieces and see where they would hit. then remove the trim pieces and drimal out a small section that was marked when it was test fitted. it's not that hard.
 
#8 ·
Yeah, that's what I'm trying to get away from... the sliced out hole underneath... no offense, it's not BAD at all, I just think it could have some "finish" to it.

Ok, my idea is this, I guess there's no reason to hide it:

I'm going to try to get it so the hole is ROUND and use a rubber grommet to fill the hole. The grommet will have a "slice" in it for the bar to go thru... almost sorta like the shift boot... so there's really no "open hole" there.. the grommet kinda seals it off but still allows the bar to move around.

My concerns are that at first I thought the round part of the bar was the only thing that needed to go thru that trim piece, I can see from the picture that the connection (more square) is actually what is protruding. So that's why I'm not 100% sure it will work.

I'm still gonna give it a try.

By the way I just LOVE that sticker that comes with the bar... what a great translation. :)
 
#10 ·
When I put my Cusco bar in about a year ago I cut the openings with a hole saw so that they are round. They like nice because they are even, symetrical and don't look like it was cut with an Xacto knife. It looks fairly natural. It does require a little extra effort to measure and get the holes exact so that the bar is centered on both sides.

Unfortunately as you have realized the hole must be large enough to accomodate not only the bar but the pivot as well. This makes the hole a good bit bigger than the bar diameter.

Ever since I've wondered if something could be placed in the hole that wrapped the bar and closed the opening but indeed it would need to be like a shift boot as it would have to accomodate the pivot. Probably work best in vinyl or leather. At this point more work than I feel like doing.

Tell us if you come up with something.

Chris
1994 VR4
 
#11 ·
Yep, Chris you are thinking exactly like me... hole saw and all.

But I know what type of thing will cover that hole... it's sort of a rubber grommet but it has a thin rubber center... you can then slice a hole (or an x-shaped slit) in the center to allow something to go thru. It's usually used in electrical and I believe there's even one under our steering column where all the wires come in.

I found a pic of one, it's not the greatest pic but I think you can get the idea. I've seen them less "bulky", but the pic will give you an idea of what I am talking about;



See how the slit of rubber in the center looks like (if cut properly) it can actaully SEAL around the strut bar without impeding the motion?

The other idea I had was to get in touch with Moboroshi and see if he can make a mini-version of a shift boot. That would be the best and it could be in any color. We could just screw it to the plastic (from the inside).
 
#14 ·
thanks for bringing this TTT... I am still working on this, can't find a suitable rubber grommet. Have been to auto stores, electrical stores, etc.

I think the idea is still sound but finding the correct grommet will be a chore. I'll keep updating as (or if) I find anything.
 
#20 ·
Funny you'd post... I was just getting ready to post.

I am taking this project on myself and just spent my Friday evening travelling to fabric stores, etc. See when I do something, I think BIG... it's not just US that has this issue, I've seen pics of "unfinished" trim on Supra boards, Civic boards, Mustang boards, etc.

So I'm going into business.

Tonight I bought the materials... and am working on the pattern and figuring out a way to attach it to the plastic trim. Tomorrow I go to my grandma's and use her sewing machine... and will probably just take her machine away from her (she doesn't use it anymore anyway).

I'm thinking around $22 to $25 plus shipping for a pair... choice of several "simulated leather" (textured vinyl) colors (white, red, black, grey, yellow) and even for the ricers I found some felt with "Zebra" and "Tiger" type prints on them :)

I think there's quite a market... especially for the show cars or people who just don't like the "unfinished" look (like me). Under $25 is very reasonable IMO for 2 pieces (one for each side).

What do you think? Worth $25?
 
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