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Good sticky & thanks to the author.
As others have indicated IAC & idle problems can frequently involve the FIAV.
Whilst the IAC clean routine is not specially difficult I would always recommend "Just buy a new one" at around $70. Then you can be sure!
The FIAV is more tricky & I don't know the best routine to check for correct operation; worse still a new replacement is expensive at around$250 !!!
So Please: add the necessary steps for FIAC checking after the IAC clean section.
 

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I should have mentioned in my earlier post that the throttle body shaft seals also may need replacement which is not simple because the butterfly is staked to the shaft.
Another quite common problem affecting Idle as I understand things.
 

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Hey just curious if theres any specific way of cleaning the throttle body and IAC (port/hole?) Should i take the whole TB off when cleaning it or would it be fine to just spray a (little?) bit of carb cleaner in it? Just wanna clarify to make sure i dont screw anything up.
Probably gonna clean them things tomorrow from boredom of waiting to take my dash back out.
 

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My '94 Base starts fine when cold and fast idles but as soon as it heats up, it stalls and won't idle unless you depress the gas pedal some. When engine is hot and you start it, it will start up and stall immediately unless depressing the gas pedal. This started happening all of a sudden. Thinking it's the IAC, I had a new OEM IAC that I bought a while back (just in case) and notice the [pintle] end on the old IAC is longer than the end on the new one (black type). Does the end move in and out when it's hot/cold? Part Number looks right...MD628053. Do these IAC's need to be set at a certain dept when installing? I'm just not certain about these.

O.K...I did some searching and found out the shaft does move in and out. I took the old IAC apart and the shaft moves freely. Maybe it was stuck all the way out? I tested it and the leads are all 29-30 ohms. The new black IAC tests 39-40 ohms on all leads. I'm sticking the new one in later today and see what happens. I do have a brand new FIAC that I bought a while back from a closed dealership inventory for $60. Couldn't pass that one by! If the idle is still messed up after installing the IAC, I'll pull the throttle body and install the FIAC but it's a little cold outside to be working on a car!
 

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Having the idle and stall problem. Engine starts easily but then after about 3-5 seconds it stalls. I can give it gas but it does not help. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel sending unit, fuel filter and nothing helped. I have changed the IAC and then the fuel pressure regulator. Now it runs for about 30 seconds but at high idle (possibly because engine is cold) but then it stalls again, acting like it is flooding out. Any suggestions on where to go next? The fuel relay on the console looks to be brand new so I don't suspect a problem there.
 

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Having the idle and stall problem. Engine starts easily but then after about 3-5 seconds it stalls. I can give it gas but it does not help. I have changed the fuel pump, fuel sending unit, fuel filter and nothing helped. I have changed the IAC and then the fuel pressure regulator. Now it runs for about 30 seconds but at high idle (possibly because engine is cold) but then it stalls again, acting like it is flooding out. Any suggestions on where to go next? The fuel relay on the console looks to be brand new so I don't suspect a problem there.
Wondering if the coolant temp sensor could be causing the issue if it is bad. I'm going to change the plugs again as the ones I put in last year are all black from the engine running too rich and see the new plugs will help. Still, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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Could be an ecu issue as well. What year car? Pull the ecu and check for leaky capacitors

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

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Could be an ecu issue as well. What year car? Pull the ecu and check for leaky capacitors

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
I have already removed the ECM and opened it. Didn't see any evidence of leaking caps nor was there any obvious issues with the board. I have changed the plugs with some cheap ones because the good ones I put in last year when I started trying to get it to run right are fried just from trying to start and keep the engine running. Changed the wires to a better wire also. Now I have to put everything back together and see what happens. I have another ECM ready to go just in case my above methods don't work. PRAY FOR ME! I'm ready to just start parting this thing out if I can't get it running soon. Just don't have the money for a new engine right now. SIGH
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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Honestly makes more sense to try your ecu in a known running car if possible

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Honestly makes more sense to try your ecu in a known running car if possible

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
I just don't know anyone where I live that has a Stealth or 3000GT. Wish I did as that makes a whole lot of sense! If only....... Thanks for the input!
 

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3SNY - HondaTurtleFTW
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I just don't know anyone where I live that has a Stealth or 3000GT. Wish I did as that makes a whole lot of sense! If only....... Thanks for the input!
Wish I could be of more help

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93 VR4, keep blowing the driver boards IC108 and IC109. IAC is brand new (tested on my 95 base with no problems). With ecu in the car it fries the ecu within minutes. I am now tracing the wires from the IAC back to the ecu and considering just replacing the enitre wiring harness. Any thing else that could cause this issue? Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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So the guy I just sold my car,to has idling issues. New iac was put on and the ecu is replaced already (about a year and a half ago). When he unplug the iac the car idles without shutting off. Any help on this? I'm gonna send him the one I took out because it wasn't the problem but I just replaced it before figuring out I needed to get another ecu.

Thanks
 

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I really really don't like aftermarket IAC, I've received a couple that have been questionable. They passed bench testing, but the pintle didn't retract or extend at all.
 

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I had the problem where my 1994 3000GT SL NA Automatic 141,000 miles would stall at the lights where the revs would just drop too low, and the engine died. Also, I stopped hearing the ICV kick in when I first pulled away. I bought a new ICV from 3SX which arrived really fast. Hey, they also included a 3SX pen and sticker too! Cool!

Here's the ICV I removed. It was really coked up with soot! There was a lot of free-play too when the end was rotated when compared to the new one from 3SX.

286019


286020


286021


That's what a 141K miles original ICV looks like (n):p I didn't have a scanner tool to check the pulses but it seems to work a whole lot better than what it was! The idle looks great!! I have been driving with all week and all is well it seems. In the future when I get a scanner I will test it.
 
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