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Money pit owner.
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Can someone post a picture of the biss and its location?
 

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Curmudgeon
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Can someone post a picture of the biss and its location?
What, the picture Speedy put in the first page ain't big enough? :p :p

It's the last picture Speedy posted. The BISS screw is just below the vacuum line and just above the black plastic housing of the TPS. As he mentioned it comes from the factory with a flat, black plastic plug covering the hole but it's often missing, as it is in his picture.
 

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Curmudgeon
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If you unplug it you'll trigger the check engine light, and you'll probably have to turn the idle up to keep it from stalling. When mine went bad (it was an old brown cover one) I opened it up and manually turned the screw to adjust the idle, then left it unplugged. Keep in mind that you should re-set the idle when you get the new one put in anyway so just turning up the BISS isn't a bad option either. An open coil is probably less dangerous than a shorted one but considering the damage it could do unplugging it is not a bad idea.
 

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Ok thanks, I also heard somewhere you have to ground a pin while adjusting the biss or it will confuse the ecu and run lean?
 

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Curmudgeon
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So NOBODY read the first page?!?
13A-55 of the manual has the proper instructions for setting the BISS screw. FOLLOW THEM! It varies for the generation of car you are working on.
Yeah, on 1st gens you have to ground the tan test connector by the battery AND pin 10 of the diagnostic port by the fusebox under the dash. I don't know what year you car is so I don't know if that's appropriate for you..
It will however be in the manual which you can download from 3SX.... for free!
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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Discussion Starter #32
Clarification- An OPEN coil will not do any damage. The open coil just prevents the IAC from moving properly. A shorted coil is what kills an ECU.

-SP
 

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From All Data, they mention to measure
1-2
2-3
4-5
5-6

I get:
1-2 = 30
2-3=21
4-5=420
5-6=30
then 2-5=18.5 M. it wants to keep climbing? Using a Fluke auto ranging meter.

I replaced the IAC, The old one was the brown style. A 92 Stealth Turbo. With a newer black OEM IAC.

Was getting weird idling and a very rich condition.
The caps were leaking and there was some black electrolyte leaking onto the board. I did not see any burnt spots.
Car sat for almost a year and it started, ran for about 40 min, then died and would not start. Plugs were wet after about 30 seconds of cranking. Spark present, but looks weak on some cylinders.
New ECU coming in by this weekend.
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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Discussion Starter #34
Check left to right top and bottom.
Edit- Ignore whats written below. I read my own directions wrong! Since I cant edit the original post the correct test points really are 1-2, 2-3 and 4-5, 5-6

I dont know how all data has the connector marked but if it was

1 2 3
4 5 6

The combination should be 1-4, 2-5, 3-6 to get those consistent numbers.

Yours sure sounds crazy to get those readings!

IAC CANNOT cause a rich condition.

-SP
 

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All Data shows
123
456
Measure 1-2, 2-3, 4-5, and 5-6

I have a new one, which is the black style.
It shows about 30 Ohlms at those points.

Could any of the fuel and or injector relays cause an injector issue leading to a rich or flooded engine. Or would the relays receive a faulty signal from a bad ECU.
 

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93 NA ATX 3000gt DOHC
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The combination should be 1-4, 2-5, 3-6
-SP
Speedy25, you might want to rethink that statement. I’m pretty sure he had it right with:
1-2
2-3
4-5
5-6
But 21 ohms and 420 ohms is a problem on brown top units.
 

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Curmudgeon
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Yep, it's
top row
pin 1 to 2, then 2 to 3
and
bottom row
pin 4 to 5, then 5 to 6

Electrically it looks like this, each row has two coils with one end of each connected together in the middle


It then repeats for the bottom row
 

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Thanks, Another bad part replaced. As well as more info, which is always useful.

My son heads for the Air Force in a few weeks. This was a father-son project. It was a nice car ( at one time) but was wrecked about a year ago, First snow in Chicago and the owner hit a concrete barrier on the front right tire. My son took a chance and bought it.

Hence, a new tranny, transfer case. 2 New wheel bearings, 2 CV Shafts, control arms in front and back as well as a new front strut. New front fender, side skirt and door. The frame is good, the fender needs pulled forward about 1/4 inch. Then the rest of the body will line up.
My son took me for a drive and the car was quite impressive. Now it needs a new ECU.

My father and I used to restore many-many cars back in the 70's and 80's. I learned how to work on cars before I could drive.
This is our second father and son Stealth project. Our next car will be a Spyder that we are looking at. But this will be next Fall's project. He is joining Air National Guard as a jet engine mechanic.
Again, this web site is such a valuable resource. we could not have completed the work over the past 3 years without it.
 

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Wheee! 2 wheels is fun!
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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks for the clarification on the measurement. I will grab a spare one I have, do some measuring and edit the original post as needed to clarify. I believe I took my info from the manual.

-SP
 
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