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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think this little kit may be a 3/S first. Remote IAC blocks have been around for years but here I've made an adapter that fits into the stock throttle body.

The reason why I've made this kit is because I've found out over the past 3-4 years that the stock IAC valves don't like high boost and high temperatures in combination with aggressive meth injection during track sessions that can be 15-20 minutes long.

The sturdier aluminum IAC valves corrode from the inside if any meth gets inside of them. The black plastic IAC valves seem to die from the heat instead.

With this kit I'm going to relocate the IAC valve down on the sub frame. The the feed line will be connected pre turbo and I will use a check valve on the line going to the throttle body so that valve never seen any boost or back pressure.

We'll see how it works during the racing season of 2022.
 

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Lovbyts
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Hmm I miss running a mill, lathe and other machines like I did in high school and college. Also enjoyed working in the foundry. Welding not so much. lol

Interesting. Do you think using vacuum lines will be sufficient? Im wondering if there might be some sort of issue due to distance and pressure if hard lines are not used since it is normally a direct bolt part. Although a lot of people live without it all together and you would not have to worry about the stupid little hose leaking water if you blocked that off also. No reason for the cooling if the IAC isnt there, right?

You could also make a FIAV Bypass Plate with the remote setup for the IAC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did a first test start yesterday with everything temporarily mounted. I had to adjust the idle screw one turn then the car idled just like before. Both cold and warm and with AC on and off so the setup seems to work.





I am tempted to remove the FIAV but I haven't done too much research on it so far.
 

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Lovbyts
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I did a first test start yesterday with everything temporarily mounted. I had to adjust the idle screw one turn then the car idled just like before. Both cold and warm and with AC on and off so the setup seems to work.

I am tempted to remove the FIAV but I haven't done too much research on it so far.
 

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That's awesome and looks like quality work, coming from doing it manually on the mill. If I ever get filthy rich, a CNC and lathe are definitely going in my shop. I no longer have an FIAV on my car. I live in Florida, so I don't notice a big difference with it gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's awesome and looks like quality work, coming from doing it manually on the mill. If I ever get filthy rich, a CNC and lathe are definitely going in my shop. I no longer have an FIAV on my car. I live in Florida, so I don't notice a big difference with it gone.
Thanks, did you block the FIAV with a plate and keep the IAC?
 
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