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My mechanic has replaced the radiator, radiator cap, thermostat three times, did a antifreeze flush and reverse flush with no visible build up.
My mechanic has also replaced the water pump and timing belt with all of the pullies and tensioner with dealer parts that I supplied. He also replaced the serpentine belt.

It typically only over heats after a 40 mile drive. If I turn on the car interior heater at the hottest temperature and highest fan speed I can usually control it for a while.
The Large fan turns on well before it starts to over heat and the small fan turns on with the air conditioning which I never use.
I have measured the amount of antifreeze in the external bottle and the levels are exactly what they should be when it is warmed up and cooled down.
It does not appear to be leaking any antifreeze, although when it over heats and cools down I can usually put about half a court in the radiator cap.
Five years ago the dealer (they no longer do this) did an acid flush and new antifreeze and it fixed the overheating.
Does anyone have any suggestions or know the best chemical flush and antifreeze I should use for the 3000GT SL?
Thanks in Advance for any advice, I have had this problem the entire summer.

Craig Barlow
 

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My mechanic has replaced the radiator, radiator cap, thermostat three times, did a antifreeze flush and reverse flush with no visible build up.
My mechanic has also replaced the water pump and timing belt with all of the pullies and tensioner with dealer parts that I supplied. He also replaced the serpentine belt.

It typically only over heats after a 40 mile drive. If I turn on the car interior heater at the hottest temperature and highest fan speed I can usually control it for a while.
The Large fan turns on well before it starts to over heat and the small fan turns on with the air conditioning which I never use.
I have measured the amount of antifreeze in the external bottle and the levels are exactly what they should be when it is warmed up and cooled down.
It does not appear to be leaking any antifreeze, although when it over heats and cools down I can usually put about half a court in the radiator cap.
Five years ago the dealer (they no longer do this) did an acid flush and new antifreeze and it fixed the overheating.
Does anyone have any suggestions or know the best chemical flush and antifreeze I should use for the 3000GT SL?
Thanks in Advance for any advice, I have had this problem the entire summer.

Craig Barlow
What radiator are you running? New OEM?

Also, the 2nd fan (A/C one) should turn on based on high coolant temperature, not only A/C use. So when you are overheating, that fan should be running even without the A/C on. I forgot the exact temperatures each one turns on, but you can find it in some threads here or the manuals.

Finally, is this a DOHC? There are two coolant sensors (i believe all years), one for the ECU and one for the center gauge. Do you have any way to confirm the ECU is actually seeing high temperatures? If there is an issue with the sensor for the gauge it may seem like the car is overheating when it is not, or if an issue with the ECU sensor, the ECU may not know the car is overheating.
 

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Ill pick up where the OP originally left off. I have the exact same 3/s with the same issue. It is definately overheating due to the large loss of coolant after it overheats and it does take me 30mins of driving to reach that point. The temp gauge is perfectly fine on the highway for a while, then outta no where the needle starts rising (I'd say a tick every 5-10... so FAST lol). Once I stop, it takes 30mins with the hood open and half jug of coolant to get driving again. I have replaced the tstat and flushed the radiator once. I have literally drove this thing all around town 20-30 times, no problem. But 30 mins over 2000RPM and it acts like its going to blow. Mine is DOHC and I dont have anyway of reading what the ECU and center gauge.
 
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