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^Human 3S Wikipedia
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
James (ReD3kgt95r) really loves his red 95 base. he got in touch with me to help him take it to the next level. this 2 week project also broke in my new shop:)

strangely with all the automotive work i've done in my life, i've never had air tools before. well i have them now, and without breaking a sweat i pulled the n/a engine out in just over 2 hours!





the engine bay was filthy due to various leaks, an under hood wiring fire, and c/v axles that flung grease everywhere. something needed to be done.


 

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^Human 3S Wikipedia
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
i contacted James when i got the n/a engine out, and told him that it would be a shame to drop the new engine in without doing something about the condition of the filthy engine compartment. i really wanted a power washer for my new shop, so i bartered with him and he bought me one to deep clean the engine bay












a really big improvement after degreasing and power washing.













but it still doesn't look great with all the scratches, faded paint and rust that was hidden by all the grime. so i told James that now would be the time to spend just a little more time tearing things down and prepping for paint


 

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^Human 3S Wikipedia
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so i taped everything off, and James rattle canned the hi temp paint & clear. it would have been nice to have 2 part base and clear in the budget, but it wasn't.










while that was drying, the front sub-frame needed attention badly.












 

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^Human 3S Wikipedia
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
heres how i easily removed and reinstalled the front sub-frame.








next up, i converted the 1995 non-turbo wiring harness to work with a 1991 TT ecu and low impedance injectors the TT engine uses.






here are my notes i posted up on the wall to figure out the wiring. the sun and heart my girlfriend colored turned out to be an integral part of the engine wiring harness conversion.






here James is restoring the rear sub-frame, that was used as an anchor on a salt water ship for 15 years. i didn't take any before pics of it, but the entire thing was encrusted in rust, almost every piece of hardware broke upon removal, i've never seen a part from our cars so rusty. James busted his ass and wire wheeled the whole thing down and put some 2 part anti-rust self etching primer on it. lots of work.








the shopping cart turned shop cart has been very handy ever since it appeared in front of my shop a few weeks ago.
 

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^Human 3S Wikipedia
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
now that the front end of the car is back together, it's time to start the AWD conversion.

to see more info on the AWD conversion, check out my two threads:

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/shooter83s-100-complete-awd-conversion-pic-heavy-427498/

and http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/one-day-awd-conversion-finished-lots-pics-449870/








now it's a welding cart


25 year old hair follicle fail, it could be from my brain overheating with ideas.






James's hard work paid off with the restoration work on the rear end.


see how the FWD studs are too short in length and diameter to pass though the AWD rear subframe rear mount.


these are the answer to solve that little problem, i gave a machine shop measurements and thread type to make them.


 

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^Human 3S Wikipedia
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·














rearward drive-shaft mount that has been waiting for use since 1994!


forward drive-shaft mount that needed slight modification by cutting a hole, dropping down a bolt, and welding it in place.


sexual
 

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Oh SNAP!!!
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awsome so far ..love the pics..keep us updated
 

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Boiler Up
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Nice work as usual... It makes me want the sohc to step up to manhood as well.

Could you possibly PM a price for your work. I have a hookup on the rear subframes as I believe it is who you are buying them all from (Tom Davis).
 

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What was the total price you charged Red3kgt95r's for the whole conversion?
We all know work aint for free;)
 

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Incredible work. How many hours did you work on that car? You always do such high quality work (based on pictures, at least :))...

Anyway, if you have issues with false knock, it looks like the downpipe is pressed up against the t-case bracket. That may or may not be a source of noise that the knock sensor picks up.
 
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