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Keep'n 'em spooled
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As I said on FB Erron has one with his twin disc setup. He's using a Tilton brand one. Someone else did also in the first group buy of flywheels made for the twin disk setup, using a different brand. It's not a drop-in, you need to fab a bracket to mount it. I know I have the brand and model number saved somewhere but couldn't find it quickly last night. I'll try to remember to look for it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As I said on FB Erron has one with his twin disc setup. He's using a Tilton brand one. Someone else did also in the first group buy of flywheels made for the twin disk setup, using a different brand. It's not a drop-in, you need to fab a bracket to mount it. I know I have the brand and model number saved somewhere but couldn't find it quickly last night. I'll try to remember to look for it again.
Yeah I seen that. And I had said tilton has a universal one in there 6000 series line. A couple people have commented since with part numbers for the 8000 series, so I gotta look into those as well.

Now here's another question; I'm not using a twin disk (wanted to but Evan's from imr said for my application something else would be better) he said the south southbend stage 4 hybrid would be perfect for what I'm looking for and its rebuildable. So I'm assuming I can use a hydro throughout bearing with a single disk clutch correct?

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Keep'n 'em spooled
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Ok, here's the poop:

There are two long threads (17-19 pages each) for the group buys for the flywheels for the Tilton twin disc 7.25" setup. Lots of info in the two threads, I was skimming through them for the HTOB info:

1st Group Buy Thread:
https://www.3si.org/forum/f25/twin-disc-flywheel-clutches-434418/#post5034957

2nd Group Buy Thread:
https://www.3si.org/forum/f25/2nd-round-twin-disc-flywheels-471040/#post5554237

Erron used a Tilton P/N 61-9002 Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing
Storm Strike had a used clutch setup for sale that listed P/N 61-8002 for the HTOB. I don't know the difference between them.
Member ruben2566 also had a HTOB setup, but the pic links in most of his posts are bad now and he hasn't been on the forum for over 2 years.

Turns out the "mounting bracket" is really just a piece of sheet metal that prevents the TOB from rotating. I think I read Erron made his out of 20 gauge metal, but don't quote me on that.

I think that's about all the help I can provide. You really should read the two group buy threads and maybe some of ruben2566's posts/threads.
 

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Science, bitch!
1992 VR4
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Our clutch system is already hydraulically actuated. I don't understand how a secondary hydraulic component would markedly improve things.
 

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Our clutch system is already hydraulically actuated. I don't understand how a secondary hydraulic component would markedly improve things.
It would replace the factory slave/fork/TOB setup with a single integrated slave/TOB.
 

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Science, bitch!
1992 VR4
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It would replace the factory slave/fork/TOB setup with a single integrated slave/TOB.


So it’s just a more efficient design? I didn’t realize our platform had many clutches that were very heavy/hard to operate.


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So it’s just a more efficient design? I didn’t realize our platform had many clutches that were very heavy/hard to operate.


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We dont have heavy clutches, people just have weak legs lol. I'm just interested in doing this for a more efficient system with less things to break or go wrong.

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We dont have heavy clutches, people just have weak legs lol. I'm just interested in doing this for a more efficient system with less things to break or go wrong.

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The downside to a hydraulic slave/TOB setup is that if the slave does fail you have to pull the transmission to replace it. Also, depending on the setup they can be a PITA to bleed (FU VW 6 speed).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
With the setup I'll have I'll be able to pull the trans in 30 mins. I'm not concerned with that.
The downside to a hydraulic slave/TOB setup is that if the slave does fail you have to pull the transmission to replace it. Also, depending on the setup they can be a PITA to bleed (FU VW 6 speed).
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Science, bitch!
1992 VR4
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825 Posts
We dont have heavy clutches, people just have weak legs lol. I'm just interested in doing this for a more efficient system with less things to break or go wrong.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Haha, I understand. Would it make that much of a difference though? You still have to push against the pressure plate springs. The lever-action of the clutch fork may actually decrease the force required to release the clutch vs the hydraulic bearing. It's been a while since I took physics, maybe someone wants to do some number crunching?

This would be more efficient in the sense that you are removing the slave, clutch fork, etc. But if you're searching for less things to break I think you have a solution in search of a problem. A new OE slave cylinder, fork, and release bearing will work for a long, long time (think decades)...far longer than most will own their cars.
 
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