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I feel the need for speed
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Thanks Twin. How did you determine it was the ecu? I've done some minor sliding but not an ecu. So, I would just clip these capacitors off at their base and solder correct ones in from the top side only, right? Thanks again.
It was determined just by looking at it. It wouldn't start and there were obvious signs of capacitor leaking. You can test the other things but considering the ECU is a guaranteed eventual failure, might as well take care of that as well. If you know someone who has a good ECU to swap that's an easy way to troubleshoot as well.

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Senior **i.e. OLD** Member
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13,703 Posts
Well, first off, the OP was planning to "just clip these capacitors off at their base and solder correct ones in from the top side only ".
If those are the original capactors (and they certainly look like it) there is literally no way to get underneath the base of the cap and clip off the leads.
Also, just soldering to the top of the board is not the correct way to do the job. It "may" work, but I wouldn't want a hack job like that in MY car.
The correct tools are:
a) A fairly high quality soldering iron with adjustable tip temperatures.
b) A good solder "sucker".
c) The correct solder for the job.
d) And the correct chemicals to clean the board after removal and again after installation.

Many novices had place these capacitors in backwards. They are ELECTROLYTIC and have the polarity marked on them.

I did mine years ago because I had access to an electronics lab with very high end equipment. I was (and still am I suppose) a Software Engineer with training in electronic devices and soldering/desoldering techniques.
When I did the job, I knew it was done right.

Call me overly cautious, but when your playing with the "brain" of your car, you don't use a screwdriver and a hammer....

Bob.
 

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I feel the need for speed
Joined
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745 Posts
Well, first off, the OP was planning to "just clip these capacitors off at their base and solder correct ones in from the top side only ".
If those are the original capactors (and they certainly look like it) there is literally no way to get underneath the base of the cap and clip off the leads.
Also, just soldering to the top of the board is not the correct way to do the job. It "may" work, but I wouldn't want a hack job like that in MY car.
The correct tools are:
a) A fairly high quality soldering iron with adjustable tip temperatures.
b) A good solder "sucker".
c) The correct solder for the job.
d) And the correct chemicals to clean the board after removal and again after installation.

Many novices had place these capacitors in backwards. They are ELECTROLYTIC and have the polarity marked on them.

I did mine years ago because I had access to an electronics lab with very high end equipment. I was (and still am I suppose) a Software Engineer with training in electronic devices and soldering/desoldering techniques.
When I did the job, I knew it was done right.

Call me overly cautious, but when your playing with the "brain" of your car, you don't use a screwdriver and a hammer....

Bob.
I get it, no one wants to give advice to make someone do the wrong thing. I definitely agree better safe than sorry but I think the repair can be done on a lower level of perfection and still be okay. Mine's been repaired for 6 years and no issues so far. However, I'm also ready to replace it with a chrome at any given moment lol


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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the info (and the link to the downloadable service manual). I'll try to pull codes again tonight.
 

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13,703 Posts
The engine codes will be in the section "FUEL SYSTEM", about 20 pages or so into that section. (in the Engine, Chassis and Body part, NOT the Electrical part)..

Bob.
 
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